Eat My Words

Monday, July 16, 2012

Eric Silverstein on his newest venture: Trailer Food Tuesdays

At the forefront of every movement is a leader, and if there is one person that has taken the reins to guide the Austin food trailer movement in the right direction that individual is Eric Silverstein – owner of The Peached Tortilla and Yumé Burger. Silverstein has been a vocally passionate critic of the Austin trailer scene in an effort to evolve its refinement and creativity as the movement progresses. After a year’s worth of hard work, Silverstein recently announced the launch of a new Austin culinary event, Trailer Food Tuesdays. Silverstein, Kristen Stacy of The Seedling Truck and Royal Fig Catering, and Tiffany Harelik of Trailer Food Diaries have combined forces to launch a monthly food trailer event in Austin. On the last Tuesday of every month from July 31- Nov. 27,  ten food trucks and trailers will gather on the lawn of the Long Center to serve the city. Details of the event are still being pieced together, but Silverstein took some time to talk with TEXAS MONTHLY about the new event, his qualms with the Austin trailer scene, and where he envisions Trailer Food Tuesdays going in the years to come.

How did you come up with this idea?

It’s something I’ve been trying to do for a year now. I hadn’t been able to find anyone to help me with the project. It’s funny, trailers are always willing to participant, but it’s hard to find the people to do the legwork. Kristen from Royal Fig approached me and asked if I wanted to move forward with this idea and we started putting some ideas together for something on the East Side, but that fell through. We brought in Tiffany [of the Trailer Diaries] because she was instrumental in bringing Gypsy Picnic to Austin and I have a lot of respect for her. We’d always kicked around the idea of doing something, but when Tiffany came in we had enough pieces of the puzzle to officially do something. It’s always been my opinion that something like this should take place every month in Austin, and Gypsy Picnic only happens once a year.

Is this something you’ve seen in other cities?

I totally pulled it from other cities. It’s huge in Los Angeles. I think the reason we haven’t seen more of this in Austin is because we’re so trailer-heavy. People don’t like to move those a lot, and LA is really truck-heavy. San Francisco has Off The Grid. Vegas has Vegas StrEATS. Even Atlanta has meetups. It seemed absurd to me that we hadn’t done this already in Austin. It doesn’t make sense. Are we that discombobulated as an industry? I think we need to get our stuff together, so I realized [Kristen, Tiffany, and I] would have to take the bull by the horns and get this going.

You’ve been vocal about how the food trailer scene in Austin needs to step up its game. Tell me why you think that is.

It’s a few things. One, I’ve been in the business for two years now and I know how these trailers operate. Only a handful of them operate like a real business. All this national media attention goes to the Austin trailer scene, and sometimes there can be a little bit of a letdown when it comes down to it. The barrier to entry in this business is so low that anybody can get in, and so that means that hobbyists are also getting involved. What you’re getting is a lot of people who aren’t serious about it, and it’s tarnishing the names of the ones in the business who really do want to make a name for themselves and treat it as a real business, and I think that ends up hurting overall sales. I’m not going to say that you have a responsibility to treat your trailer like a real business; you can run it however you want. But, if other trailers don’t keep their hours, don’t put out a great product, and don’t follow the rules, then it’s going to hurt the industry as a whole. And for some reason in Austin we’re a little more adversarial than we are collaborative. We don’t join forces enough. Why aren’t there food-truck meetups? Why don’t they exist? Why do we only see great events in San Francisco and LA and Atlanta. They’re bigger cities, yes, but we’re capable of doing it just as well. Why should places like Vegas have a better food scene than Austin?

How did you choose what trailers were going to be a part of this event?

I initially signed up people I knew, simply because we were pushing it so close to the deadline to get the ball rolling. We wanted a variety of food represented, so that’s how we got our first batch of ten trailers. We have Korean tacos. We have farm-to-table food. We have Moroccan. We have Southern food. Coolhaus. Hey Cupcake!. Artisan hot dogs. We really wanted to provide variety.

Would you ever have trailers from other cities come in for this?

Yeah, I think that would be really cool. I know Dallas does that. Dallas and Houston do a lot of that, in fact. I don’t know if this venue could support a ton more trailers – if any at all actually. I think we are maxed out at ten, but the demand will determine how we proceed.

Is it going to be ten different trailers each time?

That’s something we have to figure out. There is already a waiting list of fifteen. I think demand is going to be dictated by how successful we are initially. I think we’ll have to do rotations though. I don’t want the event to get stale.

Is this event something you want to continue in the years to come?

We have a lot of room to grow in terms of education and evolving the palates in Austin, and I feel like events like this can continue that growth. There’s a need for this, and I want this event to succeed and I hope that it will. I think once these few months go by we’ll be able to know whether or not this is something we can continue in the future. I’ve put a lot of time and effort in this, and I just want to bring something to the table in Austin that I feel should have been there already.

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Sunday, May 13, 2012

Cooks Who Draw Inspiration from Their Mothers

Numerous Texas chefs credit their profound talents to years of hard work in culinary school, rigorous training alongside great chefs, or hours of sweat equity in restaurant kitchens. Great cooking, however, is not a subject that can be summed up in the span of a few short years in the kitchen; lessons usually begin when an individual is too small to even see over the kitchen counter. In fact, our earliest culinary memories usually stem from witnessing, smelling, and tasting food prepared by our mothers and grandmothers.

This Mother’s Day, TEXAS MONTHLY spoke with three cooks who say much of their culinary knowledge comes from days of studying their mothers cooking. Eric Silverstein of The Peached Tortilla and Yumé Burger believes growing up in Japan eating street food and his mother’s adventurous Chinese dishes helped develop his extensive palate. Nineteen-year-old Thorne Russell, son of Sonya Coté, says his mother’s work at East Side Show Room and Hillside Farmacy has inspired him to watch and learn from her. Miguel Ravago, executive chef of Fonda San Miguel, was excited to bring the authentic Mexican dishes from his childhood and his mother’s cooking to the Austin culinary scene. Read below to see some of the cooks’ culinary experiences with their mothers.

Did your mother teach you how to cook?

Thorne Russell: Learning how to cook from my mother was like osmosis for me. I watched her do everything. She told me what she was doing when she was doing it, but that was it. We never did anything that was a lesson, like ‘Let’s make this together!’ I watched her do it, and she would say, “This is the right way to do it.” I now cook every single day and try to make something different every single day. I’m lucky enough where I can have people come over and ask them, “What do you want to eat? What’s your favorite food?” and I can make that for them. I wouldn’t have been able to do that without my mom… She was busy with her chef career when I was a kid, and she couldn’t always be home to make dinner for me. I learned how to make my own gourmet meals, and now I cook for her a lot of the time.

Sonya Coté: It’s funny. I didn’t necessarily want to teach him how to cook. I wanted to teach him how to eat, but knowing how to eat usually means knowing how to cook for yourself. Part of raising a kid is making sure they have the skills to take care of themselves.

Thorne and Sonya

What did you make for Thorne when he was a kid?

Sonya Coté: I got him a weekly produce box from Farmhouse Delivery every Wednesday and bought proteins to stock the fridge. I made him a lot of Italian food that was half-homestyle and half-hippie. We’d go out to eat Asian food a lot when we were in Dallas.

Do you want Thorne to be a chef?

Sonya Coté: No, I don’t want him to be a chef. I want him to be something like an environmental engineer or do something good for the environment. He is a smart kid. I don’t want him in the kitchen.

Thorne Russell: It totally depends. I don’t have a calling to do the stressful line work. I like to work under pressure. I love to cook, and I see it as an art.

What culinary influence did your mother have on you?

Eric Silverstein: She had a big influence on me in terms of food culture. Food was an integral part of her own family growing up. Whenever we would we would go visit her family, food was always central to those visits. She carried on traditional Chinese cooking methods into our family, so whenever she made meals for us it was usually stuff she grew up eating.

What did you grow up eating?

Eric Silverstein: I was raised in Japan, and Japanese food culture is one of the most intriguing ones out there. They put a lot of emphasis on quality. I still remember eating street food and at hole in the wall restaurants in Japan. Japanese cuisine is much more diverse than sushi, and we usually think [Japanese food] is just sushi in the U.S. Eighty percent of the rest of Japanese food takes a backseat to sushi here, and I wanted to bring a new concept forward through the Japanese burgers at Yumé Burger.

Eric Silverstein and his mother

What was your mother like as a cook?

Eric Silverstein: She cooked a lot with her own mother. She doesn’t have a culinary degree or anything, but she was a great home chef. Every day was family dinner. There wasn’t one day when we weren’t eating together. And she cooked everything. We would eat a lot of pot stickers, soy-sauce chicken, steamed fish, different noodle dishes, a lot of very unique Chinese dishes, and different stir-fry dishes. She also made something that was almost like a meatloaf, but with steamed pork.

What influence has she had on your culinary projects?

Eric Silverstein: She had less of an influence on The Peached Tortilla, but when we started Yumé Burger I flew her out here and to be involved with the tastings. She had the Japanese burgers that influenced me in this project when we were living in Japan.

How does she respond to your success?

Eric Silverstein: She is proud of what I’m doing. I know she follows me more closely than anyone out there. She finds it exciting, but my family comes from the restaurant business. They’ve had their successes and they’ve had their failures, so she is always cautiously optimistic. I get that from her. I want to do a restaurant down the road. It’s always been a dream of mine. To really be considered an icon in Austin, you have to have a restaurant.

How has your mother influenced your restaurant?

Miguel Ravago: She helped me learn about Mexican cuisine. She would make me taste everything just to teach me about it. We traveled through Mexico a lot, and that’s how we realized each state has a different cuisine in Mexico. That really helped me understand the cuisine… Her and my grandmother helped me when I came to Texas because they knew the cuisine so well. They showed me how everything should taste. It has influenced me a lot.

Miguel Ravago and his mother

What dishes did your mother make for you?

Miguel Ravago: She’s from the northern part of Mexico, so she made a lot of stewed meats, corn tortillas and flour tortillas that were thin like crepes, tamales, and mole. We ate a lot of seafood. She did these great chile rellenos. It was fantastic. I liked her interest in it and her curiosity. That helped me a great deal.  I’m creative because of her.

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