Eat My Words

Monday, January 21, 2013

Houston bar OKRA Charity Saloon gets a mention in The New York Times

Yesterday, The New York Times featured a story on a new breed of bars popping up around the United States: charitable bars. The newspaper noted that a “new generation of beer halls dedicated to something beyond the cash register is cropping up around the nation and the world, with proceeds going not into an owner’s wallet but to charity…”

One of the philanthropic bars mentioned in the story included the Original OKRA Charity Saloon, which opened in Houston last month. Every month, the bar allows patrons to vote which Houston-based charity should receive the bar’s proceeds from that month.

Though the newspaper article encouraged patrons to question the true charitable nature of these up-and-coming bars, the Original OKRA Charity Saloon took to Facebook this morning to clarify that the beer house is a 501(c)(6) Not-For-Profit Corporation, and that it “really [does] give 100% of [its] profits to charity after paying for all standard bar costs – product, employee wages, rent, etc.”

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Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Erin Hicks discusses her new book, Houston Small Plates & Sips

If there is anybody that knows Houston food it’s Erin Hicks, a Houston cookbook author. Her four books  – Houston Classic DessertsHouston Classic Seafood, Houston Classic Mexican Recipes, and Houston Small Plates & Sips – take readers on a tour of the creative and ethnically diverse Houston culinary scene. Erin’s newest book, Houston Small Plates & Sips, came out late last year and is gaining rave reviews from critics.

Erin talked with TEXAS MONTHLY about her cookbooks, working with chefs, and why she focuses her attention specifically on H-town’s culinary scene.

I don’t see many city-centric cookbooks. Tell me how you got your start with these books. It began with Houston Classic Desserts, right?

Houston Classic Desserts was the first one. It’s kind of a crazy story actually. Before I got into writing cookbooks, I had an interior decorating and design business. Seven years ago, I put my house on the market and one day the alarm was set off during a showing. When I came home to turn it off, I met Linda Ellerbee and her best friend Kit Wohl from New Orleans, who is also a cookbook author. We became fast friends and I helped Kit through the years from time to time. On a photo shoot with Thomas Keller in Napa three years ago she said, “You take great photos. You love to cook. You should definitely do cookbooks,” and it sparked the idea. I had planned to do desserts, seafood, and it’s just gone from there. I owned and operated a restaurant in Corpus Christi from 1991-98, and it was truly the hardest work I ever did in my life. It was tough, and coming from that background, I have the utmost admiration and respect for everyone that works in this business.

What inspired you to go into the restaurant business at that time?

Like a lot of people, I grew up cooking with both my grandmothers, but the real reason why I went into restaurant cooking was because I unexpectedly found myself as a silent partner in a restaurant in the early nineties. It was only because my husband was a partner in the business. The people that ran the restaurant lived on my rental property across the street from me, but they never paid their rent, so I had to evict them. One day I talked to them and said, “Look, I’ll run the restaurant.” I have been in business for myself ever since I was twenty-one, so I thought I would do just fine at it. Running the restaurant was fun and a key to a bar in your twenties is awesome, but I mainly worked the front of the house at the restaurant. I started studying the restaurant’s recipes and learned how I could bring more recipes into the Mexican restaurant from things I was reading in magazines and books.

Take me through the genesis of your new book, Houston Small Plates & Sips.

I love to go to a restaurant, sit at the bar, and enjoy a few small plates with friends. I have a serious order-envy problem, meaning that I always regret what I order whenever I just get one entree, since everything on the menu almost always sounds so amazing. I clearly have a problem of never being able to decide what I truly want to eat, and the whole small plates movement is great because it allows you to have a few bites of a lot of different foods. To me, that’s much more preferable than ordering one huge entree. In regards to the sips part of the book, wine pairings have been around forever, but the craft beer dinners and cocktail pairings have just recently become popular. I wanted to draw attention to that new trend!

I was wondering if you would tell me how the collaboration process with restaurants works. Do chefs and restaurant owners willingly hand over their personal recipes?

I get asked this all the time. The truth is I just ask the restaurant nicely. I don’t charge the restaurant anything to be featured in my book, and it’s a great advertisement for them. There have been a few times when a recipe will come in and I’ll notice the chef has neglected to include an ingredient or something seems a little off, so I have to test the recipes. I test them again and again until it tastes just right. I also go in for tastings at the restaurants to make sure I’m on the right track, but for most of them, they are absolutely delighted to be featured. There has only been one restaurant in town I haven’t been able to get anything out of yet, but I have a feeling if I could meet with the chef that would definitely change.

If you get a recipe that’s seems to be missing something is your palate able to know right off the bat what that ingredient is?

I don’t have a hard time with it. Just in case my palate isn’t sophisticated enough, I always take a friend with me to tastings. I have them taste whatever I make as well. Once I get the recipes in from the chefs, I get back to them and start asking questions. I’m pretty good at looking at recipes and being able to tell whether something doesn’t seem right. I also Google the same type of recipe and see if something pops up. I like to talk to other chefs and ask them questions too. It’s not that hard to get it right.

Why Houston? Why focus your book on this city?

The culinary scene in Houston is like taking a trip around the world without leaving town. There are great fine-dining restaurants, but there are also little hole in the wall restaurants all over town. Our culinary scene is super diverse and I think we’re beginning to rival a lot of the larger culinary cities in America.

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Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Justin Timberlake sets his eyes on Austin barbecue scene

According to a story in the Atlanta Business Chronicle, a new barbecue restaurant is coming to Austin in 2013. And this is no ordinary barbecue restaurant; it’s backed by Justin Timberlake. Yup, that Justin Timberlake… The Austin restaurant is part of a 30-city nationwide expansion plan for Southern Hospitality, a Memphis-style barbecue restaurant that first opened in New York in 2007.

Southern Hospitality BBQ Sauce

Restaurant locations in Atlanta and Denver are currently in the works, and Chicago and Austin are planned to open in 2013.

A different story (published last August) in Rolling Stone claims Ryan Tedder, the frontman for OneRepublic, also has his hands in the project and intends to bring the restaurant chain to “Denver, Nashville, Dallas, Austin, Houston, New Orleans, Atlanta, Phoenix, Palo Alto, and Washington, D.C.”

“I have been involved with Southern Hospitality BBQ in New York for some time, and I’m looking forward to taking this relationship to the next level,” Tedder said at the time.

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Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Feast announces shutter on Twitter, Houston diners shocked

In case you haven’t heard, Feast, Houston’s first notable snout-to-tail restaurant,  announced it will close its doors for good in August 2013 after their five-year lease comes to an end. The shocking shutter announcement came via Twitter last week: “So the bad news is we’re closing in 9 months but the good news is you have 9 months to come eat at Feast! Thanks for all of your support.”

In July 2008, Pat Sharpe selected Feast as Pat’s Pick, and had this to say about the restaurant: “Given the amount of cajoling it takes for most people to even try organ meats, why would restaurant owners go to so much trouble? Because they think it’s important. Richard and James are big proponents of ‘nose to tail’ eating. This is a notion popularized by their highly regarded compatriot Fergus Henderson, of St. John, in London, who advocates using every part of an animal, inside and out. But in the end, while it’s fun to dine on the edge and admirable to be a conscientious carnivore, the main reason to go to Feast is for the flavors. Yes, you will be part of something significant, but mainly, you’ll eat very well.”

So why is the restaurant closing its doors? “There were not enough people coming through the doors on a regular basis,” James Silk, co-owner of Feast, admitted to the Houston Chronicle.

Feast received numerous accolades through the years, recognized by Bon Appétit, Texas Monthly, The New York Times, and even the James Beard Foundation. The restaurant was a pioneer in the snout-to-tail movement that has since taken over the Houston culinary scene. Restaurants like Underbelly and Oxheart have followed in their footsteps. The restaurant will be sorely missed.

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Monday, December 3, 2012

Latin Bites chef visits Peru, brings home new menu inspirations

A few months ago, Latin Bites executive chef Roberto Castre took a trip to Peru to attend Mistura, an exciting culinary festival that takes place in Lima every year. During the culinary visit, the acclaimed chef encountered some new trends and restaurant dishes that have become all the rage throughout his homeland. Here, Castre discusses his trip to Peru, how he has seen the country change, and what new dishes he brought back with him to feature on the Latin Bites menu.

What was the trip to Peru for? What were you going there specifically to find?

The main reason for the trip to Peru was to attend Mistura, the biggest culinary event in South America. I also wanted to visit various restaurants in Lima in order to learn about new gastronomic tendencies in Peru. I went there to find new flavors and textures, learn a bit about the gastronomic culture of my country and the latest tendencies, and learn more about the origins of our traditional dishes.

I was surprised by the influx of Asian influences your new dishes had. Is that something you’ve seen change or evolve in the Peruvian culinary scene?

Gastronomically speaking, Peru has evolved so much lately and that is reflected in the quality of the restaurants there. Lima has the most culinary schools in the world, and I think that says a lot. In Peru, gastronomy is not only an industry; it’s a social and economic movement that’s part of our Peruvian identity. In Peru, the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine has evolved tremendously. This is why we are able to find such wonderful places with this type of cuisine. Peruvian cuisine is greatly influenced by Japanese and Chinese cuisine, and this has been happening for many years. The difference now is that it has been applied to different levels thanks to new culinary techniques.

Tell me a bit about your Peru trip. What are some of the new culinary influences you encountered during your travels?

I was in Peru for a week, and to be honest, it wasn’t enough time to enjoy all the things my country can offer as a culinary destination. Nevertheless, it was an extraordinary experience to be able to visit five to seven restaurants a day, apart from visiting the Mistura Fair where you can see over 300 restaurants and nearly 300 typical dishes to feed the half-a-million people that visit the fair on those days. Without a doubt, eating at local spots was a unique experience. It meant a lot to return to my origins and see the dishes being created, feel them, smell them, and taste those flavors and dishes that have made our cuisine what it is today. That is priceless.

Detail the new dishes you’ve added to the menu and how those reflect what you saw in Peru.

Tiradito de Maracuya, a finely cut fish, like sashimi, served over a maracuya sauce, similar to the one in our cebiche, served with quinoa and sweet potato puree. This was inspired by a cebiche I tasted at Mercado de Rafael Osterling restaurant. Cebiche de Mercado is a fish and octopus cebiche that comes with fried calamari. The dish was inspired by my visit to the markets where they put a bit of everything in their cebiches. Duck rice – rice infused with cilantro, dark beer, and macerated corn, served with sweetened duck, marinated in two types of Peruvian peppers. Quinoa salad – two textures of quinoa, soft and crispy, caramelized cashews, fresh mozzarella, sweetened tomatoes, broad beans, mint, chili, and maracuya dressing. This dish was inspired by the quinoa. The idea is to innovate our menu constantly and teach our clients about the variety and diversity of Peruvian dishes. My goal as a Peruvian chef is even greater: to promote the gastronomy from my country in a sophisticated and modern way, without sacrificing traditions and customs of a country so rich in culture. Recently, we have added seven dishes and I’m working on seven more, which will be ready by the start of 2013.

What are some of the inspirations or influences you find in the Houston culinary scene?

What I like the most about Houston is the cultural diversity and how open people are to taste new flavors. This makes Houston an attractive city with different restaurant options. It’s a city with a competitive scene, which means you are able to find different interesting flavors and aromas.

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Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Thanksgiving Dishes from Renowned Texas Chefs

Turkey Day is upon us, and an abundance of families will be cooking fall-centric dishes at home tomorrow. In case you’re looking to scrounge up some last-minute Thanksgiving recipes, here are a few offerings from a handful of talented Texas chefs.

Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Absinthe Crème Fraîche from Jason Dodge of Péché 

For the soup:
½ medium-sized sugar pie pumpkin, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
2 shallots, peeled and quartered
3 cups chicken stock
¼ cup maple syrup
2 sprigs fresh thyme

In a large bowl toss pumpkin with thyme, salt and pepper, and shallots in olive oil until thoroughly coated. Place on a medium sheet tray. Roast at 400 degrees until slightly caramelized. Let cool before handling. Heat stock to a simmer and add pumpkin, shallots, and maple syrup. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste.

For the crème fraîche:
1 cup crème fraîche
½ cup Pernod Absinthe

Reduce absinthe by ½ cup in a small sauté pan over high heat. Fold into crème fraiche. In a serving bowl, ladle soup and spoon crème fraiche on top. Garnish with pumpernickel or Pecorino Romano croutons.

Maple Bread Pudding from John Bates, chef/owner of Noble Pig Sandwiches

“The reason I love bread pudding is because it reminds of the holidays. It is good in so many ways and reminds me of family,” Bates says.

Maple Bacon Bread Pudding
loaf day-old bread
6 cups half and half
1 cup sugar
1 cup maple syrup
¾ teaspoon breakfast sausage, cured
9 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1 ½ cups bacon, crumbled and crispy

Dice your bread. In a pot add half and half, sugar, maple syrup, and breakfast sausage. Bring the milk up to a simmer and allow the sugar to dissolve and infuse the flavors. In a mixing bowl, add whole eggs and egg yolks. Mix together the eggs and temper the hot milk into eggs. Pour hot custard base over the diced bread and bacon. Allow to soak for thirty minutes and then pack into mason jars. Put jars into a water bath and bake until set in a 350-degree oven. Approximately 45 minutes.

Apple Cheddar Pie from Janina O’Leary, executive pastry chef of TRACE

Cheddar-Cheese Tart shell
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cubed
3/4 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
3 tablespoons cold water

Crumble topping:
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

Apple Pie Filling:
6 cups cored, peeled, and thinly sliced crisp apples
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
3/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground allspice

Crust: In a large bowl or food processor  combine flour and salt. Add the butter and, using a pastry cutter, two knives, or your hands, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add grated cheese and toss. Add cold water, by the tablespoon, until a rough dough forms. Gather dough into a ball, flatten into 3/4-inch-thick disk, and tightly wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough into an 11-inch circle about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer dough to a 9-inch pie pan. Turn overhanging dough under itself to form an edge along the top of the pan, and crimp edges. Chill for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line the crust with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the crust is lightly browned — about 15 minutes.

Filling: Add cut apples to a large bowl and toss with lemon juice and zest. In a small bowl, mix sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and allspice. Sprinkle the spice mixture over the apples and toss to mix thoroughly. Spoon the apples into the prepared crust.

Crumble topping: In a small bowl using a fork, toss flour, brown sugar, butter, and grated cheddar cheese. Sprinkle the top of the pie with crumble mixture. Place pie in the middle of the oven and bake until the topping is golden brown — 50 to 60 minutes. Cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Sullivan’s Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict from Thomas Dritsas, corporate executive chef at Sullivan’s Steakhouse

“The Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict is a fun way to repurpose your leftover turkey into a uniquely delicious dish for the whole family to enjoy the next morning,” Dritsas says.

Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict
1 English muffin, split
2 ounces gravy
2-4 ounces turkey slices
2-4 ounces stuffing
2 cups water
1 teaspoon white vinegar
2 jumbo eggs (for poaching)
3 ounces cranberry sauce

Start by heating the turkey, stuffing, and gravy in a microwave until warm throughout. Split the English muffin, then toast and place on a warm plate or platter of choice. Divide stuffing with an ice cream scoop or large spoon and place on top of each side of the English muffin. Top stuffing with slices of reheated turkey and press down on stuffing to level out so the egg will sit on top of the turkey properly. Bring the water and vinegar to a simmer in a small saucepot. Crack 2 eggs, then drop into the simmering water and poach for 2-4 minutes depending on how you like your eggs done. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and drain well on a paper towel to remove liquid. Set one egg on top of the turkey that is on each side of the toasted English muffin. Ladle approximately 1 ounce of gravy over each poached egg. Spoon the cranberry sauce on the plate accompanying the Benedict. Serve immediately.

Braised Short Rib from Olivier Ciesielski, chef of  L’Olivier Restaurant & Bar

“This dish reminds me of my childhood in Burgundy, France. It’s a simple, very rustic dish that my mother used to cook. We ate a nice braised meal almost every week during autumn and the winter,” Ciesielski says.

Braised Short Rib
5 pounds boneless beef short ribs, cut crosswise into 2 inch pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium onions, chopped
5 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 whole tomatoes, crushed
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs rosemary
1 fresh or dried bay leaf
1 head of garlic, halved crosswise
3 ounces of red wine
5 cups beef stock (demi-glace)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season short ribs with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large heavy pan oven over medium-high heat. Working in two batches, brown short ribs on all sides, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer short ribs to a plate and reserve.

Add onions, carrots, and celery to pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until onions are caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add flour and tomatoes; cook, stirring constantly, until well combined and deep red, 2-3 minutes. Stir in wine, and then add short ribs with any accumulated juices. Bring to a boil, lower heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes. Add all herbs to pot along with garlic and beef stock.  Bring to a boil, cover, and transfer to oven.

Cook until short ribs are tender,  about 2–2 1/2 hours. Transfer short ribs to a platter. Strain sauce from pot into a measuring cup. Spoon fat from surface of sauce and discard; season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in plate with the potato tart with sauce spooned over.

Green Bean Bundles from Patrick Russell, chef of MAX’s Wine Dive Dallas

Green Bean Bundles
Yields 25-30 bundles
2 pounds fresh green beans
1 pound applewood-smoked bacon—thick cut is best
1 cup brown sugar
1 stick butter
1 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 orange
1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Clean green beans by clipping the tip and tails, and removing the string.  Bring salted water to a boil in a large pot. Once boiling, take the green beans and cook for 3 minutes; strain and shock in ice water to cool, repeat until all green beans are cooked. Strain green beans from ice water. In a new pot, boil butter and brown sugar; add soy sauce, garlic, and the juice of one orange and boil for 3-5 minutes more. Take the bacon and cut the strips in half. Wrap 5-7 green beans per each half, and place into a deep baking pan. Pour sauce over green beans, and let sit overnight. Bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes until bacon is rendered and crispy.

Turkey Gravy from Christina Lee, chef of Central Market Cooking School in Austin 

“I love this recipe because it is easy, tasty, and versatile. I use it to make turkey pot pies, turkey and dumplings, and baked turkey and rice casserole.  It’s also delicious on mashed potatoes,” Lee says.

Easy Turkey Gravy
yields 4 cups
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups hot turkey stock
1 tablespoon each of parsley, thyme, sage, and oregano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a medium pot, melt the butter and add the flour.  Whisk continuously until a blond roux has been achieved, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the hot turkey stock 1 cup at a time, whisking to incorporate into the roux. Add the herbs and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Butternut Squash Cheesecake from Michelle Antonishek, executive pastry chef of Bar Mirabeau

Antonishek says this dessert is extra special to her because she made it for husband, Bar Mirabeau’s Executive Chef Bill McGrory, the day Bill asked Michelle to marry him.

Crust
2 cups graham crackers
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup butter, melted

Mix all ingredients together and line cheesecake pan. Bake at 325 degrees for 10 minutes or until golden brown.

Cut two butternut squash in half and place on pan lined with water.  Bake until butternut squash is tender and soft. Scoop out the squash and place in a blender and puree until smooth.Hang in cheesecloth to drain the excess water and moisture.

Butternut Squash Cheesecake
1 pound cream cheese
4.5 ounces sugar
12 ounces squash puree
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1.5 teaspoons nutmeg
1/2 vanilla bean
1/4 teaspoon cloves
6 eggs

Cream the cream cheese, sugar, and spices until smooth on low speed. Add the squash and mix until smooth on slow speed. Add the eggs one at a time scraping after every other egg. Strain and bake in a water bath at 275 degrees until set. (Depending on size: large 10″ cheesecakes, approximately take 1-1.5 hrs.) Serve with whipped cream and candied pecans.

Roasted Green Chile Pecan Dressing from Joe Synatschk, executive chef of Central Market Fort Worth

“This dressing is spicy and crunchy, and pairs well with turkey or pork at Thanksgiving,” Synatschk says.

1 8×8 pan cornbread, crumbled
1 small loaf crusty bread, cubed
3 poblano or hatch chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
1-2 jalapeño peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 cup sweet corn kernels
3/4 cup pecan pieces, toasted
1/2 cup celery, diced
1/2 cup onion, diced
2-3 cups chicken stock
3 tablespoons butter
2 eggs
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
salt and black pepper, to taste.

Allow breads to sit and dry out a bit. Char jalapeños and poblanos. Allow to sit in a bowl covered with plastic for 5 minutes. Peel, seed, and chop peppers, reserving some jalapeño to adjust for spiciness to taste. In a large sauté pan, sweat onions and celery in butter until tender. Add corn and sauté until warmed through.

In a large bowl, combine crumbled corn bread, cubed bread, chile mixture (some reserved), onion mixture, pecans, and half the stock. Stir well to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Add more stock as needed for desired texture. Taste for spiciness, add more chiles as necessary. Stir in beaten eggs and cilantro and place in a large baking dish. Bake at 375 degrees for 30-40 minutes, until set and at an internal temp of 160.

Aji Ham from Rene Ortiz, executive chef of Sway and La Condesa

Whole roasted spiral cut ham from local butcher
Aji dijon glaze (recipe below)
canned pineapple rings
maraschino cherries
toothpicks

Aji Glaze
1 cup dijon mustard
2 cups local honey
1/2 cup Aji Amarillo paste (Peruvian yellow chili found at Mexican food markets)

Glaze method: Place ingredients into a pot and bring to a boil, reserve with a brush to glaze the ham.

Place the ham onto roasting rack. Add the decorative garnish with pineapple first, then the cherry, and stab them with toothpick. Heat the oven to 375 degrees and start the process of basing with the Aji glaze. While the ham is cooking, occasionally add some of the sweet glaze to it. Once the ham is up to temp and the glaze is starting to caramelize, the ham is ready to come out of the oven.

Apple Pie from Laura Sawicki, executive pastry chef of Sway and La Condesa

Pie dough
yields one double crust pie
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons sugar
8 ounces unsalted butter, diced
about 1/2 cup ice water

In a food processor, mix flour, salt, and sugar together. Pulse to evenly distribute. Add the cold, diced butter and pulse several times until the pieces are small and pea-like. Do not over mix! Pulse in the ice water a little at a time, adding up to 1/2 cup, if needed. Pulse until it just comes together. Turn onto a floured table and very gently knead the dough once or twice to bring all the flour together. Dough should be shaggy and loosely incorporated. Divide the dough into two pieces and form into a flattened round disk. Wrap dough and place in refrigerator overnight.

Filling:
7-8 apples
juice and zest of half a lemon
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
pinch of fresh grated nutmeg
2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
pinch of salt
2 teaspoons unsalted butter

Peel and slice the apples 1/4-inch thick. Toss the apples in a large bowl with all ingredients except the butter. Allow to macerate 5 minutes. When ready to assemble the pie, roll one piece of dough 12-14″ and place into the bottom of a pie tin. Trim the edges so there is a slight overhang. Place all the apples into the pie and dot the filling with butter. Roll remaining piece of dough slightly larger than the first. Fold in half and place over the filling. Unfold the dough to cover the pie completely. Gently tuck the edges of the dough into the pan, pulling the top dough over the bottom. Crimp the edges of the pie and place in the freezer about 30 minutes to firm up. The pie can remain frozen at this point.

Egg wash: Whisk together 1 egg, pinch of salt, and 1/2 teaspoon water

Brush the entire top of the pie with egg wash. Sprinkle liberally with sugar. Cut vent holes in the top of the pie in a decorative manner. This is crucial to allow steam to release. Bake at 400 degrees for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 350 degrees and continue to bake for at least one hour. If the pie is getting too dark, turn the oven down to 325 degrees or wrap the edges in aluminum foil. Allow the pie to cool completely before eating.

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Friday, November 2, 2012

Tiff’s Treats Expands into Second Houston Location, Hosts Grand Opening with Charitable Cause

A few months ago, famed cookie-delivery business Tiff’s Treats finally made its move into the city of Houston. Next week, the baked goods company is opening up its second Houston location, this time in the Medical Center. On Saturday, November 10, Tiff’s Treats will host a grand opening event – selling cookies for $3 a dozen and donating the funds to the Cystic Fibrosis Child Life Department at the Texas Children’s Hospital.

Similar to the previous opening, the first ten people in line will get a $100 Tiff’s Treats gift card. There will also be a drawing for free cookies for a year. All the details can be found here.

The third Tiff’s Treats Houston location will be in Midtown and is predicted to open in January. The Tiff’s Treats Round Rock location is still under construction and is expected to open in December.

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Friday, November 2, 2012

Five Texas Restaurants Honored in OpenTable’s Top 100 Restaurants with the Most Notable Wine Lists

OpenTable, an online restaurant reservation and review system, recently announced the honorees of the 2012 Top 100 Restaurants with the Most Notable Wine Lists in the United States. The list was determined by the combined opinions of more than 5 million reviews submitted by verified OpenTable diners for more than 15,000 restaurants. According to OpenTable’s press release, American fare restaurants dominated the majority of the list.

Wine wall at MAX’S Wine Dive in Austin.

Five Texas restaurants – Block 7 (Houston), MAX’S Wine Dive (Austin), MAX’S Wine Dive (San Antonio), Mercy Wine Bar (Dallas), and The Tasting Room (Houston) – were featured on the list.

“We were thrilled to learn that three of our locations were honored by OpenTable diners and recognized as having some of the top wine lists in the country. Our company vision statement is ‘To revolutionize the wine experience,’ and our teams work diligently to provide the best possible products from around the world at the lowest prices in the marketplace – both for on-premise consumption and for take-home retail sale,” Jonathan Horowitz, chief brand officer of Lasco Enterprises, LLC, told TEXAS MONTHLY. “We say ‘Thank you’ to all our guests and to OpenTable for this recognition.”

Lasco Enterprises, LLC is the parent company of MAX’S Wine Dive and The Tasting Room.

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Friday, October 26, 2012

In Honor of Texas Chicken Fried Steak Day: Three Delicious Chicken Fried Steaks in Houston, Dallas, and Austin

Yesterday, I revealed that I would feature three unique chicken fried steaks on the blog in celebration of Texas Chicken Fried Steak Day. So, who are the lucky honorees?

Congratulations to Olivia in Austin, Beaver’s in Houston, and Bone Daddy’s in Dallas. These three Texas restaurants feature some amazing pan-fried steaks. Read further to learn more about the methods and concepts behind their creations.

Beaver’s (Houston)

Description: Chicken Fried New York Strip with bacon-shroom gravy, bacon-cheddar mashers, bacon-braised greens, and Texas toast.

Method: ½ pound New York strip steak (tenderized and pounded thin). Toss in seasoned flour. Dip in buttermilk. Press back into seasoned flour. Fry for 3-5 minutes at 365 degrees or until golden brown. Top with cream gravy with thick-cut bacon and local, roasted mushrooms. (Beaver’s serves their chicken fried steak with braised greens with bacon and mashed russet potatoes with thick-cut bacon and sharp white cheddar cheese.)

Olivia (Austin)

Description: The Willie Nelson Chicken Fried Steak at Olivia is an homage to an unfortunate run-in Willie Nelson had with the law in El Paso in 2010. Look closely at the description: 6 ounces (ahem) of meat, red-eye gravy, herbed smashed potatoes, two fried eggs, and chopped salad with buttermilk dressing. James Holmes (executive chef of Olivia) said he would have contributed a portion of sales to Willie’s legal defense, but that obviously wasn’t necessary. As of now, Holmes has no plans for a Waylon Jennings plate.

Method: Take 6-ounce ribeye, pound it out, and begin standard breading procedure. Drop in seasoned fried chicken flour and throw in a wet mix (4 cups buttermilk, 4 eggs, and ¼ cup hot sauce). Drop ribeye in a cast-iron skillet with hot canola oil at 350 degrees. Cook until golden brown; Flip over and spoon hot grease over it. Serve with herbed smashed potatoes: skin on, gold potatoes, whole milk, salt and pepper, and various herbs: parsley, tarragon, etc.

Red-eye gravy: Make a medium-brown roux, chicken stock, 1 cup of strong-brewed coffee, ¼ cup hot sauce, couple hits Worcestershire, lots of pepper. Bring to a boil until it becomes a gravy. Use the leftovers for gumbo.

Bone Daddy’s (Dallas)

Photo taken by Dick Patrick.

Description: Tender, hand-battered steak topped with homemade gravy and served with garlic & chive whipped potatoes, creamed corn, and a warm cheese roll.

Method: Take 6 ounces of cubed steak, pound it out, and season it. Press the steak in seasoned flour and then dip in batter. Coat steak once more with flour and drop in deep fryer until it is golden brown, tender, and floats. Drain the oil from the steak and plate it with mashed spuds and veggies. Top it off with gravy!

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Friday, October 19, 2012

‘Where the Chefs Eat’ Culinary Tours Feature Top Houston Chefs, Diverse Cuisines

Exciting news for all the Houston foodies out there: the city is hosting a myriad of chef-organized, chef-led culinary tours in 2013. The “Where the Chefs Eat” Houston Culinary Tours started in 2010 as a means of teaching diners about the Houston food scene and all its intricacies and diversities.

Proceeds from the tours benefit Foodways Texas, a nonprofit organization that promotes and celebrates the diverse food cultures of Texas. This year, a number of talented chefs will be leading the tours including James Beard nominated chefs Robert del Grande, Anita Jaisinghani, and Levi Goode and The Next Iron Chef’s Bryan Caswell, Top Chef Masters’ Monica Pope, and Top Chef Just Desserts’ Rebecca Masson.

“Houston is a great town for food and culture, and through the culinary tours, we get to share that with people–Houstonians and tourists alike! It has singlehandedly changed the way the country views Houston chefs and the Houston culinary scene,” Monica Pope, owner/chef of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, says.

Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Chris Shepherd of Underbelly took guests to Houston’s prime places for eastern-Asia-inspired fare. Pictured here: Korean BBQ at Nam Gang. Photo taken by Shannon O’Hara.

“I participate because I love Houston,” Ryan Pera, owner/chef of Revival Market, says. “There is so much to explore on a culinary level–so many diverse restaurants and markets to try. It’s a great way to show others what I believe is unique and special about our city.”

The culinary tours are limited to sixteen participants each and cost $180 per person. Tour descriptions – taken directly from the press release – are below. To purchase tickets, see this link.

Sunday, January 13: Farm with Randy Evans, Claire Smith and Monica Pope
Get outta town! Canopy and Shade Chef Claire Smith, Chef Randy Evans of Haven restaurant and Sparrow Bar + Cookshop’s Monica Pope venture beyond the Loop to celebrate all things locally-grown. Visit each of the chefs’ favorite farms for pick-your-own produce and a tour of the land. Then, chase down some of Houston’s top food trucks known for their locally-sourced cuisine. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, January 20 – Korean with Chris Shepherd and Ryan Pera
Join Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd as they spotlight the ‘underbelly’ of Korean cuisine in Houston. Guests will go beyond barbecue, discovering traditional Korean fare in everything from a classic noodle house and Korean sushi bar to a Long Point Road mainstay and authentic Korean grocery store. Live octopus, anyone? On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, February 17 – Oyster with Bryan Caswell and Robb Walsh
Catch the bus when cookbook author Robb Walsh and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef set out in search of all-things oyster. Discover where to find the best bounty in the city, helpful shucking tips and get a lesson on the difference between East Coast and Gulf varieties. Caswell and Walsh will also highlight the local seafood counters selling Galveston Bay oysters, before bellying up to a few H-Town oyster bars for a taste of the sought-after seafood. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, March 17 – Seafood with Bryan Caswell and Levi Goode
Celebrate living along the Gulf Coast with a seafood-filled day in the city. Ride along with avid fisherman and Reef Chef Bryan Caswell, as he teams up with Goode Company president Levi Goode for an exploration of Houston’s top seafood selections. Among the day’s stops, guests will check out a soul food spot that draws crowds for its crab claws and rich gumbo, dig into top-notch sushi and discover where the chefs shop for the best catch in town. On sale Feb. 1, 2013.

Sunday, April 21 – Vietnamese with Ryan Pera and Monica Pope
As home to the largest Vietnamese population in Texas and the third-largest in the U.S., it’s safe to say that Houston is well-versed in the art of Vietnamese culture and cuisine. Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Monica Pope of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop share their favorite spots to find pho, bò bía and bánh mì. On sale March 1, 2013.

Sunday, May 19 – Pig with Chris Shepherd and Robert del Grande
Pigs have recently been on the front burner of some of the nation’s most sought-after kitchens-much to the dismay of animals of the porcine variety. But these days, the culinary masterminds are leaving little behind, thanks to an emphasis on nose-to-tail cooking and a little epicurean wherewithal. Tag along with Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and RDG + Bar Annie’s Robert del Grande as they share their favorite places to find, buy and delight in the city’s best pork. Head to a sustainable shop in the Heights to learn about locally raised heritage pigs, before heading out in the city to taste how different cultures put their spin on the savory meat. On sale April 1, 2013.

Sunday, June 23 – Taco with Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan
Any local can tell you, regular taco consumption just goes with the territory in H-Town. But around here, the sizzling fajitas have to share the spotlight with more than just Tex-Mex. Ride along with The Pass and Provisions’ Chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan as they spotlight the rolled-and-wrapped fare in Houston. From breakfast tacos and barbacoa varieties to Korean lettuce-wraps and taqueria-style selections, guests will walk away with a whole new appreciation for the take-along treat. On sale May 1, 2013.

Sunday, July 21 – Long Point Road with Bryan Caswell and Chris Shepherd
Anyone that’s ever driven down Long Point Road in West Houston’s Spring Branch district knows that it’s a melting pot for the city’s culinary scene. Join Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef as they guide guests on a diverse and well-edited selection of their favorite undiscovered hole-in-the-walls. From wallet-friendly taco trucks and authentic Thai food to Korean barbecue and Korean fried chicken, it’s an eclectic mix of cuisines that are sure to please. On sale June 3, 2013.

Sunday, August 18 – Vegetarian with Robert del Grande and Anita Jaisinghani
Going meatless in the Lone Star State isn’t always easy, but Indika’s chef Anita Jaisinghani and Chef Robert Del Grande of RDG + Bar Annie are teaming up to prove Texas can turn out vegetarian fare just as well as anyone. Hop on the bus as both James Beard-nominated chefs share their favorite meatless menus in the city and point out the traditional places that knock vegetarian offerings out of the park. From Indian dosas and a Vietnamese mainstay to traditional basen ladoo at a 100 percent vegetarian-owned biz, guests will delight in a diverse mix of animal-free delicacies. On sale July 1, 2013.

Sunday, September 22 -BBQ with Levi Goode and Robb Walsh
Goode Company president Levi Goode and Legends of Texas Barbecue cookbook author Robb Walsh team up to showcase the most interesting barbecue Houston has to offer. Get ready for an array of offerings from Tex-Mex barbacoa tacos to interior Mexican, cabrito al pastor and lamb barbacoa, to falling-off-the-bone ribs and dirty rice at a family-owned, Bayou City-staple. On sale Aug. 1, 2013.

Sunday, October 13 – Brewery with Rebecca Masson, Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner
Spend the day brewery hopping with Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson, Hay Merchant’s Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner, the founder of Saint Arnold-Texas’ oldest craft brewery. From grain to glass, guests will get an inside glimpse at the beer-making process at four of Houston’s most ground-breaking breweries. To round out the experience, a handful of the city’s top food trucks will be on site to serve up savory street fare with a modern twist. Discover everything from a mobile pizza biz and Vietnamese vendor to a sassy sandwich maker and comfort food truck. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Sunday, October 27 – Day of the Dead with Hugo Ortega and David Cordua
Join restaurateur-chef Hugo Ortega–of Montrose’s Hugo’s–and Chef David Cordua of Americas for an afternoon filled with cuisine and culture. Stop by the Museum District where a local gallery celebrates art, music and the practices of Mexico during a series of Día de los Muertos events. Later, the group will dig into savory snapper a la plancha at a Mexican mainstay, take a guided tour of Airline Market and swing by a Heights bakery for pan de los muertos. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Saturday, November 9 - Southern Comfort with Randy Evans and Rebecca Masson
Take a trip down memory lane and enjoy the best homestyle fare the city has to offer. Haven’s Chef Randy Evans and Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson take guests on a tour of the comfort food restaurants that take them back to their childhood. From a momma-approved pie shop and a Cajun-inspired soul food joint to an old-fashioned fried chicken spot and an old-school barbecue classic, guests will be treated to all of the true flavors of the south. On sale Oct. 1, 2013.

Sunday, December 8 – Chinatown with Justin Yu and Ryan Pera
Grab a seat alongside Oxheart’s Justin Yu and Ryan Pera of Revival Market as they share the secrets and standouts of both Houston’s Chinatowns. Join them as they highlight delicious dim sum destinations and visit a couple of Vietnamese outposts known for their bahn cuon, bánh mì and spicy crawfish. Plus, learn the ins and outs of navigating one of the largest Asian markets in the city. On sale Nov. 1, 2013.

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