On Friday, Pat Sharpe wrote about Hugo Ortega’s new cookbook “Hugo Ortega’s Street Food of Mexico,” which will be featured at the Texas Book Festival this Saturday and Sunday (October 27-28) in Austin. To give our readers a deeper look into some of the many dishes included in the cookbook, Ortega sent along the guisado de cazuela de chicharrón, a softened pork skins stew, from the book. To see more delicious recipes like this, pick up a copy of “Hugo Ortega’s Street Food of Mexico.”

Guisado de cazuela de chicharrón
Softened Pork Skins Stew | Makes 4-6 servings

Photo taken by Penny de los Santos

Puestos de chicharrónes are found throughout markets in Mexico City, where these crunchy pork skins are in containers under lamps, and customers can buy them by the kilo. In some stands, the large dried pork skin — usually the actual size of the pig it came from — is hanging from hooks, exposed in all its glory. Chicharrónes can be eaten dry, in a tortilla with salsa de aguacate (page 125) or cooked in a stew, as offered here. Chicharrónes wilt and reduce in size in hot liquid. They are available in the potato chips/snacks aisle in Mexican/Latin grocery stores. Keep in mind that chicharrónes are naturally very salty; therefore, add salt to taste.

10 medium tomatillos, husks removed, washed, roasted
1 large white onion, quartered, roasted
6 garlic cloves, peeled, roasted
1 whole jalapeño pepper, roasted, stemmed
¼ cup olive oil
2 (4 oz) packages chicharrónes
2½ cups beef stock (store-bought or reserved from recipe on page 90)
1 tsp dried Mexican oregano
¼ tsp ground cumin
Pinch ground cloves
¼ cup pipicha leaves, optional
12 regular-sized tortillas (page 74), warm
½ small bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped for garnish
½ small white onion, finely chopped for garnish

Place tomatillos, onion, garlic and jalapeño in blender and purée into a smooth consistency.

Place saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil to pan and preheat 2 minutes. Add tomatillo sauce and bring up to a boil, 3 minutes, stirring continuously.

Add chicharrónes, stirring frequently to completely submerge them in sauce. Allow to wilt, about 3 minutes. Add beef stock or reserved liquid and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and leave gently bubbling for 5 minutes. Add oregano, cumin, cloves and pipicha, if using. Cook for 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.

Place ¼ cup stew on each tortilla. Garnish with cilantro and white onion.

Tagged: Hugo Ortega, Hugo Ortega's Street Food of Mexico, Layne Lynch, Stew

Exciting news for all the Houston foodies out there: the city is hosting a myriad of chef-organized, chef-led culinary tours in 2013. The “Where the Chefs Eat” Houston Culinary Tours started in 2010 as a means of teaching diners about the Houston food scene and all its intricacies and diversities.

Proceeds from the tours benefit Foodways Texas, a nonprofit organization that promotes and celebrates the diverse food cultures of Texas. This year, a number of talented chefs will be leading the tours including James Beard nominated chefs Robert del Grande, Anita Jaisinghani, and Levi Goode and The Next Iron Chef’s Bryan Caswell, Top Chef Masters’ Monica Pope, and Top Chef Just Desserts’ Rebecca Masson.

“Houston is a great town for food and culture, and through the culinary tours, we get to share that with people–Houstonians and tourists alike! It has singlehandedly changed the way the country views Houston chefs and the Houston culinary scene,” Monica Pope, owner/chef of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, says.

Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Chris Shepherd of Underbelly took guests to Houston’s prime places for eastern-Asia-inspired fare. Pictured here: Korean BBQ at Nam Gang. Photo taken by Shannon O’Hara.

“I participate because I love Houston,” Ryan Pera, owner/chef of Revival Market, says. “There is so much to explore on a culinary level–so many diverse restaurants and markets to try. It’s a great way to show others what I believe is unique and special about our city.”

The culinary tours are limited to sixteen participants each and cost $180 per person. Tour descriptions – taken directly from the press release – are below. To purchase tickets, see this link.

Sunday, January 13: Farm with Randy Evans, Claire Smith and Monica Pope
Get outta town! Canopy and Shade Chef Claire Smith, Chef Randy Evans of Haven restaurant and Sparrow Bar + Cookshop’s Monica Pope venture beyond the Loop to celebrate all things locally-grown. Visit each of the chefs’ favorite farms for pick-your-own produce and a tour of the land. Then, chase down some of Houston’s top food trucks known for their locally-sourced cuisine. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, January 20 – Korean with Chris Shepherd and Ryan Pera
Join Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd as they spotlight the ‘underbelly’ of Korean cuisine in Houston. Guests will go beyond barbecue, discovering traditional Korean fare in everything from a classic noodle house and Korean sushi bar to a Long Point Road mainstay and authentic Korean grocery store. Live octopus, anyone? On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, February 17 – Oyster with Bryan Caswell and Robb Walsh
Catch the bus when cookbook author Robb Walsh and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef set out in search of all-things oyster. Discover where to find the best bounty in the city, helpful shucking tips and get a lesson on the difference between East Coast and Gulf varieties. Caswell and Walsh will also highlight the local seafood counters selling Galveston Bay oysters, before bellying up to a few H-Town oyster bars for a taste of the sought-after seafood. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, March 17 – Seafood with Bryan Caswell and Levi Goode
Celebrate living along the Gulf Coast with a seafood-filled day in the city. Ride along with avid fisherman and Reef Chef Bryan Caswell, as he teams up with Goode Company president Levi Goode for an exploration of Houston’s top seafood selections. Among the day’s stops, guests will check out a soul food spot that draws crowds for its crab claws and rich gumbo, dig into top-notch sushi and discover where the chefs shop for the best catch in town. On sale Feb. 1, 2013.

Sunday, April 21 – Vietnamese with Ryan Pera and Monica Pope
As home to the largest Vietnamese population in Texas and the third-largest in the U.S., it’s safe to say that Houston is well-versed in the art of Vietnamese culture and cuisine. Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Monica Pope of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop share their favorite spots to find pho, bò bía and bánh mì. On sale March 1, 2013.

Sunday, May 19 – Pig with Chris Shepherd and Robert del Grande
Pigs have recently been on the front burner of some of the nation’s most sought-after kitchens-much to the dismay of animals of the porcine variety. But these days, the culinary masterminds are leaving little behind, thanks to an emphasis on nose-to-tail cooking and a little epicurean wherewithal. Tag along with Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and RDG + Bar Annie’s Robert del Grande as they share their favorite places to find, buy and delight in the city’s best pork. Head to a sustainable shop in the Heights to learn about locally raised heritage pigs, before heading out in the city to taste how different cultures put their spin on the savory meat. On sale April 1, 2013.

Sunday, June 23 – Taco with Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan
Any local can tell you, regular taco consumption just goes with the territory in H-Town. But around here, the sizzling fajitas have to share the spotlight with more than just Tex-Mex. Ride along with The Pass and Provisions’ Chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan as they spotlight the rolled-and-wrapped fare in Houston. From breakfast tacos and barbacoa varieties to Korean lettuce-wraps and taqueria-style selections, guests will walk away with a whole new appreciation for the take-along treat. On sale May 1, 2013.

Sunday, July 21 – Long Point Road with Bryan Caswell and Chris Shepherd
Anyone that’s ever driven down Long Point Road in West Houston’s Spring Branch district knows that it’s a melting pot for the city’s culinary scene. Join Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef as they guide guests on a diverse and well-edited selection of their favorite undiscovered hole-in-the-walls. From wallet-friendly taco trucks and authentic Thai food to Korean barbecue and Korean fried chicken, it’s an eclectic mix of cuisines that are sure to please. On sale June 3, 2013.

Sunday, August 18 – Vegetarian with Robert del Grande and Anita Jaisinghani
Going meatless in the Lone Star State isn’t always easy, but Indika’s chef Anita Jaisinghani and Chef Robert Del Grande of RDG + Bar Annie are teaming up to prove Texas can turn out vegetarian fare just as well as anyone. Hop on the bus as both James Beard-nominated chefs share their favorite meatless menus in the city and point out the traditional places that knock vegetarian offerings out of the park. From Indian dosas and a Vietnamese mainstay to traditional basen ladoo at a 100 percent vegetarian-owned biz, guests will delight in a diverse mix of animal-free delicacies. On sale July 1, 2013.

Sunday, September 22 -BBQ with Levi Goode and Robb Walsh
Goode Company president Levi Goode and Legends of Texas Barbecue cookbook author Robb Walsh team up to showcase the most interesting barbecue Houston has to offer. Get ready for an array of offerings from Tex-Mex barbacoa tacos to interior Mexican, cabrito al pastor and lamb barbacoa, to falling-off-the-bone ribs and dirty rice at a family-owned, Bayou City-staple. On sale Aug. 1, 2013.

Sunday, October 13 – Brewery with Rebecca Masson, Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner
Spend the day brewery hopping with Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson, Hay Merchant’s Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner, the founder of Saint Arnold-Texas’ oldest craft brewery. From grain to glass, guests will get an inside glimpse at the beer-making process at four of Houston’s most ground-breaking breweries. To round out the experience, a handful of the city’s top food trucks will be on site to serve up savory street fare with a modern twist. Discover everything from a mobile pizza biz and Vietnamese vendor to a sassy sandwich maker and comfort food truck. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Sunday, October 27 – Day of the Dead with Hugo Ortega and David Cordua
Join restaurateur-chef Hugo Ortega–of Montrose’s Hugo’s–and Chef David Cordua of Americas for an afternoon filled with cuisine and culture. Stop by the Museum District where a local gallery celebrates art, music and the practices of Mexico during a series of Día de los Muertos events. Later, the group will dig into savory snapper a la plancha at a Mexican mainstay, take a guided tour of Airline Market and swing by a Heights bakery for pan de los muertos. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Saturday, November 9 - Southern Comfort with Randy Evans and Rebecca Masson
Take a trip down memory lane and enjoy the best homestyle fare the city has to offer. Haven’s Chef Randy Evans and Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson take guests on a tour of the comfort food restaurants that take them back to their childhood. From a momma-approved pie shop and a Cajun-inspired soul food joint to an old-fashioned fried chicken spot and an old-school barbecue classic, guests will be treated to all of the true flavors of the south. On sale Oct. 1, 2013.

Sunday, December 8 – Chinatown with Justin Yu and Ryan Pera
Grab a seat alongside Oxheart’s Justin Yu and Ryan Pera of Revival Market as they share the secrets and standouts of both Houston’s Chinatowns. Join them as they highlight delicious dim sum destinations and visit a couple of Vietnamese outposts known for their bahn cuon, bánh mì and spicy crawfish. Plus, learn the ins and outs of navigating one of the largest Asian markets in the city. On sale Nov. 1, 2013.

Tagged: Anita Jaisinghani, Brock Wagner, Bryan Caswell, Chris Shepherd, Culinary Tours, David Cordua, Fluff Bake Bar, Goode Company, Hay Merchant, Houston, Hugo Ortega, Justin Yu, Kevin Floyd, Layne Lynch, Levi Goode, Monica Pope, Oxheart, Randy Evans, RDG + Bar, rebecca masson, reef, Revival Market, Robb Walsh, Robert del Grande, Saint Arnold, Setih Siegel-Gardner, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, Terrence Gallivan, The Pass and Provisions, Underbelly, Where the Chefs Eat, Where the Chefs Eat Culinary Tours

When Hugo Ortega was a small boy shining shoes and selling freshly made flan in the marketplace in Mexico City, no doubt it never crossed his mind that one day he would be teaching Americans to cook the foods of his homeland.
But that was a long time ago, and now he is one of the most admired chefs in Texas, the co-owner of Hugo’s, in Houston, as well as Backstreet Café, in the same city. Earlier this year, Ortega, with his brother, pastry chef Ruben Ortega,  published his first cookbook, Hugo Ortega’s Street Food of Mexico. It was excerpted in Texas Monthly in August.   Next week, he will be in Austin teaching at Central Market (Thursday, October 25, at 6:30 p.m.) and doing a cooking demo at the Texas Book Festival (Saturday, October 27, at 10 a.m.—moderated by yours truly, in the cooking tent).
Happily, there are still seats available for the cooking class (they’re $60), and the Book Festival demo is free and open to the public on a first come, first served basis. The class menu takes you well beyond tacos and tostadas to include fascinating interior dishes like tlacoyos (masa cakes stuffed with refried beans and topped with mushrooms); garnaches with tinga de conejo (sweet potato masa cakes with savory rabbit stew); aguachile (shrimp marinated in lime juice—think of it as Mexican sashimi); and gaznates (sweet fritters with meringue filling). Copies of the book, published by Bright Sky Press, will be available for sale. ¡Buen provecho!

Tagged: Central Market, Hugo Ortega, Hugo Ortega's Street Food of Mexico, Ruben Ortega, Texas Book Festivals

From October 27-28, the Texas Book Festival will take place at the State Capitol in Austin. A number of talented, award-winning culinary authors will be attending the literary gathering, including Naomi Duguid – contributing editor of Saveur magazine and author of the recently released “Burma: Rivers of Flavor.”

Duguid spent many years traveling to remote regions in the Middle East, Southeast Asia, and China and has won the Cookbook of the Year Award twice for “Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia” and “Flatbreads and Flavors: A Baker’s Atlas” from the James Beard Foundation. ”Burma: Rivers of Flavor” focuses on stories, flavors, ingredients, and recipes from all throughout Burma – also known as Myanmar. Duguid spoke with TEXAS MONTHLY about her newest cookbook and the cultural and culinary dynamics of Burma.

Tell me about writing Burma: Rivers of Flavor. What are some of the requirements and difficulties of writing about a genre of cuisine that is so far away from where you live?

The most important thing is to understand how people in Burma view the food they make and eat. What do they love about it? What is essential? Then, I need to figure out how to make it in a North American kitchen and figure out what dishes are most likely to appeal to North Americans.

I know that this book chronicles many years of traveling to and from Burma. Tell me how you’ve seen Burma’s cuisine evolve through the years.

I always see myself as a beginner rather than an insider, so I can’t say much about how the cuisine has evolved. It’s true, however, that as the country develops there will be more prepared foods and fewer women cooking traditional big lunchtime meals for their families.

Every country and state and has a unique relationship with food. In Texas, I’d say foods like barbecue and Tex-Mex serve as a sense of pride. How does Burma’s food reflect or represent the culture and lives of the Burmese people?

People in Burma vary enormously, in their economic situation and also in their culinary culture. There are central Burmese, Shan, Kachin, and other peoples – all of whom have their own cuisine. For central Burmese, I’d say tea leaf salad, laphet thoke, and a wonderful everyday noodle dish called mohinga have a national status. But everyday Burmese who have the choice [usually] eat a main meal at lunch that is centered on rice and is full of diverse and wonderful dishes. For me, that should be the thing Burmese people take the most pride in.

Burma is ethnically diverse, so there is naturally going to be a lot of diversity in the food. What are some of the main culinary threads you see throughout Burma, however?

There is a huge emphasis on fresh vegetables, used as a condiment, relish, and also as a simple snack in the midst of the main noontime rice meal. There’s also a lovely flexibility and light-handed approach to salads.

I always like to ask authors about the stories behind writing a book. Would you tell me a story behind one of the recipes in the book?

I learned the magic rice balls from a friend of a friend in Rangoon. I spent a noontime meal at her house, and we cooked together and made a number of dishes. The magic rice balls, which are made of a rice dough wrapped around small chunks of palm sugar, were amazing. We also made a light bean soup with vegetable tendrils in it. She took me out into the garden and I picked off the growing tendrils of a number of vines and plants and added them to the soup. It made me realize that there is a lot more to the vegetable kingdom than we are aware of in the Western world.

I’m interested in any book or cookbook projects you have at the back of your mind. Is there a book you have yet to write that you plan on doing in the near future?

I am still so entangled with Burma and all that is going on there, so I have not yet imagined myself engaged elsewhere. Ill let you know when I have found my next project!

If you’re interested in taking a cooking class with Duguid, she will be hosting a “Seasonal Supper” cooking class at Central Market’s Houston Cooking School on October 25 and Central Market’s Austin Cooking School on October 28.

(Other culinary authors included in the Texas Book Festival lineup are Jane Morgan, Jesse Griffiths, Scott Roberts and Jessica Dupuy, Robb Walsh, Bill and Claire Wurtzel, Hugo Ortega, Bruce Aidells, and Liz Gutman and Jen King.)

Tagged: Bill Wurtzel, Bruce Aidells, Burma: Rivers of Flavor, Central Market, Central Market Cooking School, Claire Wurtzel, Hot Sour Salty Sweet and Flatbreads and Flavors: A Baker’s Atlas, Hugo Ortega, Jane Morgan, Jen King, Jesse Griffiths, Jessica Dupuy, Layne Lynch, Liz Gutman, Naomi Duguid, Robb Walsh, Scott Roberts, Texas Book Festival, The Salt Lick

The James Beard Awards—which are “the Oscars of the culinary industry,” as has been said ad infinitum but which also happens to be true—happen tonight in New York starting at 5 Central time (6  Eastern). The best restaurants and chefs in the country—determined by a vote of chefs and other culinary professionals—will be announced at a gala awards dinner at Lincoln Center. The host will be television personality and chef Alton Brown.
If you want to follow along on the Internet, you’re in luck. The star-studded event will live-blogged and live-streamed on the Beard web site. The hashtag  #jbfa will be used for all awards-related Tweets.
What’s the Texas connection? Four Texas chefs are up for the regional award as  Best Chef: Southwest (there were only six  finalists in this category, so there is a good chance one of our folks will win). The nominees are Bruce Auden, Biga on the Banks, San Antonio; Bruno Davaillon, Mansion Restaurant at the Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas; Hugo Ortega, Hugo’s, Houston; and Paul Qui, Uchiko, Austin.  (The two non-Texas finalists in the Southwest division are Kevin Binkley, Binkley’s Restaurant, Cave Creek, Arizona; and Jennifer Jasinski, Rioja, Denver.)  Oh, in case you’re wondering why there’s a picture of the Empire State Building on this post, it’s because the edifice will be lighted orange and yellow tonight. Those two colors have special meaning for JBF. The walls of the organization’s headquarters, Beard House, were painted orange when chef and author James Beard resided there (“It’s like living in a bowl of tomato soup,” he would say), while yellow represents the pineapple, a symbol of hospitality and a motif in the Beard House decor during the Foundation’s early years.

Tagged: Biga on the Banks, Bruce Auden, Bruno Davaillon, Empire State Building, Hugo Ortega, Hugo's, James Beard Awards, Mansion Restaurant, Paul Qui, uchiko

Well, finally! For once, Texas didn’t get skunked by Las Vegas in the finals for the James Beard Awards. Our chefs captured four of the six finalist slots in the category Best Chef: Southwest. And in addition, Houston Chronicle columnist and blogger Alison Cook, who writes Cook’s Tour, made the finals in the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review category. (Her nominated columns discussed Houston restaurants Melange Creperie Cart, Ava Kitchen and Whiskey Bar, and Pondicheri.)

The Texas finalists for Best Chef: Southwest are Bruce Auden, Biga on the Banks, San Antonio; Bruno Davaillon, Mansion Restaurant at the Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas; Hugo Ortega, Hugo’s, Houston; and Paul Qui, Uchiko, Austin.  If Paul wins this, in addition to having won Top Chef: Texas, he may have to hire a body double to distract the paparazzi.   (The two non-Texas finalists in the Southwest division are Kevin Binkley, Binkley’s Restaurant, Cave Creek, Arizona; and Jennifer Jasinski, Rioja, Denver.)

Tagged: alison cook, Bruce Auden, Bruno Davaillon, Hugo Ortega, James Beard Awards, Paul Qui