Foodways Texas, which was founded in July 2010 “to preserve, promote, and celebrate the diverse food cultures of Texas,” held its second annual symposium in Austin this past weekend. A couple of hundred participants listened to talks on the theme of “Texas Preserved”—a deliberately wide-ranging topic that covered cocktails, the drought, cattle, sugar plantations, heritage pigs, beer, shrimp boats, oysters, “trash fish,” and even mayhaw jelly.

Attendees also ate, very, very well, from a brisket dinner catered by Austin ‘cue maestro John Mueller (with sides by Hoover’s Cooking) to the recreation of a Texas farm dinner circa 1840 at Boggy Creek Farm. The main course at the latter feast consisted of succulent grilled Red Wattle pigs (a heritage breed) provided by Revival Market in Houston; the chef for the occasion was Sonya Cote of Austin’s East Side Showroom and the brand new Hillside Farmacy.

Here are four choice moments from the nearly two-dozen presentations at the symposium:

“Two generations ago Texas housewives could buy sugar grown, refined, and packaged in Texas. The brand was Imperial, and it was downright disloyal to buy anything else. But gradually the thriving Texas sugar cane industry collapsed. The cause of its slow death was a perfect storm of cane disease, bad weather, and cheap sugar from other countries, to name just three reasons. But today, sugar cane may be making a comeback in the Rio Grande Valley. Could Texas once again become a sugar belt—or sugar bowl?” – MM Pack, food writer and culinary historian, Austin, speaking on “A Short but Not Always Sweet History of Sugar in Texas.” (more…)

Tagged: barbecue, Chuck Wagon, Foodways Texas, Imperial Sugars, john mueller, oysters, Texana, Texas Cuisine, Texas drought, tom perini

It’s been a long time in the making (a VERY long time in the making): John Mueller, sometimes called the black sheep of the Taylor smoked meat family, is almost back in business here in Austin. Mueller, who used to have a legendary place on Manor Rd. (and famously sold his smoker to Aaron Franklin), has a new trailer at 1501 South 1st St., and the fire has been lit. Visit his web site or follow @jmuellerbbq on Twitter for upcoming details (and while you’re at it, follow us).

The Smoker

"Burning Out" Ribs to Prepare Smoker

(more…)

Tagged: bbq, brisket, Franklin, JMueller BBQ, john mueller, Louie Mueller, sausage, taylor, texas, Texas Monthly BBQ

The most intriguing email of the last week came to us from John Mueller (yes, one of those Muellers, as in the barbecue dynasty of Central Texas).

It said, in its entirety: “Have a very Happy New Year. Look for John Mueller BBQ in the very early 2010 in some form. Taking it to the streets and using Joe Nick’s advice of 1 brisket at a time.–Have a great day–John Mueller.”

So, I emailed John with a few questions and just heard back. He says: “Yes [the new operation] will be in Austin. I’m taking this slowly to ensure a successful comeback. My first plan is to vend in local clubs so I can reestablish my reputation and confidence. I will be looking for the exact right opportunity for a building.”

(“Joe Nick” refers to Texas writer Joe Nick Patoski, a noted barbecue expert.)

Tagged: john mueller