This year, we’ve decided to offer up a retrospective of some of the top Texas wines for 2012. Starting November 1, I began tasting through a sampling of more than 60 different Texas wines including selections from larger, well-known producers including Llano Estacado Winery, Fall Creek Vineyards and Messina Hof, to smaller estate producers including Calais Winery, Perissos Vineyard and Winery, Pontotoc Vineyards, and Landon Winery. I tried to get as wide of a selection as possible. There are MANY Texas wines out there, which means it’s virtually impossible to try them all. In the end, I’ve managed to whittle down a list of 10 reds and 10 whites that span a breadth of the great winemaking Texas is seeing right now.

A few things to note:

1) I tried to taste wines that were available at the time of evaluation. (November 1—December 15). There are a number of beautiful wines that I’ve tasted throughout 2012 that could easily have earned a spot on this list, such as the McPherson Cellars Roussanne Reserve or the Lost Oak 2010 Syrah—but these were not available in circulation. I should note that since tasting through these wines in the past month, a few of them now have very limited availability, but were able to find at the time of evaluation.

2) All of the tastings were done blind. Once I collected the wines for tasting, all of them were brown-bagged and opened by a third party before tasting in an effort to keep all evaluations objective and fair.

3) Each wine tasted was awarded a score between 1 and 5 in the categories of nose, palate, finish, and overall drinkability for a total of 20 points per wine. The final list is based on the top scoring evaluations.

4) Finally, and most importantly, this a list compiled based on my own personal tastes and overall understanding of what well-made, balanced wine should taste like. But in the world of wine, as with good Texas barbecue or Tex-Mex food, what really matters is what tastes good to you. Discovering that for yourself is the most rewarding part of learning more about Texas wine.

This is a list of all wines that scored 18 or higher in overall points in alphabetical order.

Red Wines

Brennan Vineyards 2010 Dark Horse

~$19 – Winery (Brennan Vineyards and 4.0 Cellars)

One of the first showings of Texas grown Nero D’Avola, a Sicilian grape known for its sweet tannins and peppery flavors. This wine is lighter in style, but big on complexity. It’s smoky and spicy with hints of bright red fruit, wild orchid, white pepper and even a little bacon. If this is what we have to look forward to from Nero D’Avola, I look forward to seeing more of it in the future.

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Montepulciano

~$22 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

This wine works well as an every day wine that can easily make the grade for a special occasion. It’s fruit forward with blackberry, blueberry, vanilla and cinnamon on the nose with a hint of earthiness and medium tannins on the palate. Montepulciano has been a consistent work horse for Duchman from vintage to vintage.

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Nero D’Avola

~$20 – Winery

The first two Nero D’Avola wines released in Texas this year also happen to make this list. The fruit in this wine has dark blackberry and aromatic ripe blueberry. You’ll find notes of vanilla and baking spices, but also a bit of leather and excellent tannic structure on the palate.

 

 

Inwood Estates Vineyards 2009 Magdalena 

~$50 – Select liquor stores, winery

This wine is an example of how beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon can actually be in Texas. The nose has rich, ripe red fruit, soft vanilla and the perfume of walking into a greenhouse full of violets. With such a big nose, the wine is actually lighter on the palate balanced with a hint of acid and nervy tannic structure.

 

Llano Estacado Tempranillo Cellar Reserve 2010

$16 – Grocery stores such as HEB, select liquor stores, winery

For those who are unsure of Texas Tempranillo, this wine makes a good introduction. Not only because it’s just a good wine in general, but because it’s a rounded, approachable version of what this often cantankerous grape can be like. You’ll catch hints of raspberry, blackberry, bacon, smoke and portobello mushroom.

 

McPherson Cellars Sangiovese 2009

~$16-$18 – Some grocery stores, Spec’s, select liquor stores, winery

Rich with dark cherry and raspberry, a little forest floor, and a hit of vanilla, this full-bodied wine has a lovely round finish and drinks beautifully. (Note: This is a wine that is For Sale In Texas Only, which means less than 75 percent of the wine is from Texas. The remainder is from neighboring New Mexico.)

 

Pedernales Tempranillo Reserve 2010

~$30 – Select liquor stores, winery

This Tempranillo gives us a glimpse at the true nature of Tempranillo in Texas. It’s a finicky grape with dark fruit, mushroom, tobacco and often a little leather. The Pedernales tames some of the wild tannic structure in this grape without stripping it down too much. You also find hints of cinnamon, vanilla, and a touch of green parsley. This wine is rustic, yet elegant.

 

Perissos Vineyard and Winery 2010 Racker’s Blend

$45 – Winery

Seth Martin of Perissos Vineyard and Winery likes to get the most flavor from his estate grapes, which grow on a peaceful tract of land in the Colorado River Valley near Marble Falls. Each year, he selects a portion of each of the red varietals that grow on his property to blend into his Racker’s Blend. A true field blend, the percentage of grapes varies from year to year. This 2010 vintage is big with ripe dark and red fruit, rich floral perfume and a melange of cocoa, cherry and fresh tobacco. With more than 15% alcohol, it’s not a wine for sissies.

Pontotoc Vineyard 2011 San Fernando Academy 

$25 – Select Central Texas outlets including East End Wines (Austin), House.Wine and Lincoln Street Wine Bar (Fredericksburg), Sandstone Cellars Wine Bar (Mason), Salt Lick Cellars (Driftwood), winery (info@pontotocvineyard.com)

This is a big wine. What’s that former soap opera? The Bold and the Beautiful? That’s this wine. And not just because well-loved Mason County winemaker Don Pullum threw just about everything but the kitchen sink in here. (Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane, Tempranillo, Grenache and Syrah) But because it’s just a great all around red wine—especially for the Texas steak lover. On the nose is lush dark fruit,  green pepper, vanilla and cocoa, and a little bit of dark forest floor. This is a big, balanced wine at a restrained 12.5 percent alcohol. Get some.

William Chris Vineyards 2011 Hunter

$32 – winery

For those of you who enjoy Pinot Noir for its red fruit and earthy qualities, this is the Texas Wine for you. Let me be clear that this is NOT a Pinot Noir. In fact it’s a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre. But this wine has all the elegance and complexity of a French Burgundy. Excellent bright, red fruit with a refined finish.

 

Honorable Mention: Messina Hof Cabernet Franc Reserve, Salt Lick Cellars 2010 Mourvedre, Duchman Family Winery 2010 Aglianico, Landon Winery Tempranillo Reserve 2011, Llano Estacado 1836

White Wines

Becker Vineyards 2011 Fumé Blanc

~$10 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

One of the top sellers from Becker, this is a consistently good wine that balances the best of its citrus, peach, and white flower aromas with a dry, balanced finish. And at $10, it’s a top pick for an every day white wine.

 

 

Brennan Vineyards 2011 Lily

$18 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery (Brennan Vineyards or 4.0 Cellars)

This wine was a happy surprise. Its aromatic bouquet of white and yellow flowers with hints of honeysuckle and apricot almost trick the senses into thinking it may be a little sweet, but it turns out to have a balanced off-dry finish with good acidity that prevents it from being cloying. Excellent wine for spicy foods.

 

CapRock Winery 2010 Roussanne

~$15-$17 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

This golden beauty took home a gold medal from the 2012 Dallas Morning News and TEXSOM International Wine Competition this year. And with good reason. With lush citrus, young peach, and a touch of minerality, this is a great wine to have on hand during the summer time.

 

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Trebbiano

$12 – Winery

Those who like bone dry wines brimming with minerality and a hint of citrus will love this wine. Lemon zest, a touch of red apple and hot, wet limestone dominate the nose and palate with a balanced, rounded finish. A perfect white for a red wine drinker.

 

 

Hilmy Cellars 2011 Muscat Canelli

$22 – Winery

Typically this is a wine that you might find on a dessert wine menu. Muscat Canelli tends to reveal quite a bit of sugar in the wines it produces. And while this wine definitely has hints of sweetness, it also has a beautiful balance with acidity. If you like sweet wine, you’ll love this one. If you DON’T like sweet wine, I’d still give it a try with spicy Asian food like Thai or Szechuan Chinese. That little touch of sweetness will pair perfectly with the heat from the food.

 

Lost Oak Winery 2011 Riesling

~$17 – Winery (Lost Oak Winery or 4.0 Cellars)

If you’re a Riesling fan, you’ll probably like this wine. If you’re NOT a Riesling fan, I encourage you to try this wine. It’s not the cloyingly sweet syrup you’ve come to expect out of a Blue Nun bottle. This Riesling is dry with citrus, apricot, white tea, and the faint scent of honeysuckle. The crisp finish is similar to what you’d find in French Alsatian Rieslings—not surprising considering owner/winemaker Gene Estes spent a few years living in Alsace.

 

McPherson Cellars 2011 Les Copains

~$12-$14, Some grocery stores, Spec’s, select liquor stores, winery

Pretty on the nose and pretty on the palate, this is the kind of wine that can please all friends at the table. Rather fitting since its name is French for “friends,” which is particularly how the fruit, sophistication and complexity of this blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache blanc work together in this wine. Note: the 2011 vintage was almost sold out when this wine was sampled. Look to the 2012 vintage in the Spring of 2013.

 

Pedernales Cellars Reserve Viogner 2011

With a strong focus on Viognier as the primary white grape in their program, Pedernales Cellars continues to hammer out a standard of elegance for this grape that is creating a foundation for what Viognier should taste like. Not only in Texas, but anywhere else. Swoony floral characteristics with ripe pear, melon and apricot as well as a hint of juicy fruit gum perk up the nose, while a dry and crisp finish with balanced acidity make this wine the perfect alternative to your average Chardonnay.

 

Perissos Vineyards and Winery 2011 Roussanne

$34 – Winery

You can almost taste the complexity in this wine simply by looking at its bright golden color. Grown on the High Plains, this French Rhone varietal shows off its very best in this wine with ripe pear, yellow flowers, cantaloupe and honey-baked fruit on both the nose and palate with a crisp finish. This is a perfect example of what Roussanne can do in Texas soil.

 

Vineyard at Florence 2011 Aurelia

~$30 – Select liquor stores, winery

For a long time, Texas has taken stabs at producing wine from the American hybrid Blanc du Bois. But the reviews have often been mixed. The Aurelia from the Vineyards at Florence is finally the exception. A beautiful wine with soft tropical fruit along with a fragrant floral bouquet of white and yellow flowers. Its crisp, dry finish leaves a hint of minerality, making this a perfect warm-weather wine with food.

 

Honorable Mention: Duchman Family Winery 2010 Vermentino, Fall Creek Vineyards 2011 Chardonnay

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Becker Vineyards, Duchman Family Winery, Hilmy Cellars, llano estacado winery, Lost Oak Winery, McPherson Cellars, Pedernales Cellars, Perissos Vineyard and Winery, Pontotoc Vineyards, texas wine

The 23rd La Dolce Vita Food & Wine Festival that sponsors the AMOA-Arthouse will take place tonight from 6-9 p.m. at Laguna Gloria.

Food will be served from several Austin restaurants including East Side Showroom, Foreign & Domestic, Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill, Olive & June, Parkside, Ranch 616, and Trace. Famed Austin restaurateur Larry McGuire of Lamberts Downtown Barbecue, Perla’s, Elizabeth Street Café, and Jeffrey’s Restaurant has been chosen as the honorary chef for the evening.

“As a native Austinite, I’ve enjoyed Laguna Gloria, La Dolce Vita, and the museum my entire life, so to be asked to serve as the 2012 Honorary Chef is a real privilege,” Larry McGuire said in a press release. “Not only am I excited about helping AMOA-Arthouse raise funds for its education programs, but I feel that this event stands out from all the other food events in town.”

Cocktails will be prepared by Tipsy Texan’s David Alan and local wineries and distillers including Becker Vineyards, Inwood Estates Vineyards, Llano Estacado Winery, and Pedernales Cellars will be present as well. For more information about the event, check out this link.

Tagged: AMOA-Arthouse, David Alan, East Side Show Room, Foreign & Domestic, Inwood Estates Vineyards, La Dolce Vita Food & Wine Festival, Lamberts Downto, Larry McGuire, Layne Lynch, llano estacado winery, Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill, Olive & June, Parkside, Pedernales Cellars, perla's, Ranch 616, Tipsy Texan, TRACE

Of the many battles fought on the vast Texas soil, there are a few that rate as pivotal moments in Texas history. One such skirmish was the famed Battle of San Jacinto. On April 20, 1836, in a part of northern Mexico known as “Tejas,” a group of settlers won a decisive battle leading to the formation of the Independent Republic of Texas, and eventually independence from Mexico. This month’s Texas Wine of the Month was made in celebration of those who fought for the Republic: Llano Estacado Winery 1836 Red Table Wine, 2008.

This month’s selection comes from the suggestion of Suzanne Pike, general manager and wine steward for Bin 555 Restaurant in San Antonio. A long time lover of wine, Pike took note of the 1836 the second she tasted it. “I like this wine because of its balance of flavors,” says Pike who detects hints of blueberries, currant, nutmeg, mocha, and a little smoke.

Llano Estacado Winery has been a long time player in the Texas wine industry offering a wide range of Texas (and non Texas) wines at affordable prices throughout most of our commonly known retail outlets. But they also focus on premium wines as well. In fact, in 5 out of 12 years one of their other top red blends, Viviano (~$30), has walked away with one of the prestigious “Grand Awards” as Texas Best Red Wine in the Lone Star International Wine Competition.

The 1836 is just as worthy of such praise. It is a red blend of Texas grapes primarily sourced from the Mont Sec vineyard in West Texas. (In the Chihuahuan desert.) The primary blend is 50.9 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 31.1 percent Syrah with smaller percentages of Petite Verdot, Malbec and Sangiovese—giving the wine an extra juicy kick of fruit.

The diverse variety of grapes each bring a different element to the wine. Perhaps its the spirit of the battle for the Republic that has been bottled in this wine, which exudes bold structure from the Cabernet Sauvignon, a smoky meatiness from the Syrah, ripe fruit from the other varietals and crisp acidity, perhaps from the hot days and cool nights and elevation of the Chihuahuan desert.

“To me it is the perfect summer BBQ wine,” says Pike who suggests that the 1836 would be perfect with grilled ribeye or smoked brisket or ribs. “This is an example of how Texas wines have come a long way. We’re starting to see beautiful fruit, and well-balanced wines that could stand side-by-side next to the wines of California. Everyone who enjoys a good glass of wine should really try what Texas has to offer.”

Though it’s certainly a heartier wine than the lighter summer whites and rosés that are often suggested for this time of year, don’t shy away from a wine like this. Just be sure to chill it for about 15-20 minutes in the refrigerator before serving—trust me, you won’t regret it.

Wine: Llano Estacado Winery, 1836 Red Table Wine, 2009

Retail Price: ~$30

Availability: At some Spec’s locations throughout the state as well as at some restaurants including Bob’s Steakhouse (Dallas), Four Seasons Resort & Club (Las Colinas), Charivari Restaurant & Bar (Houston), Kata (Houston), Bin 555 (San Antonio), Hudson’s on the Bend (Austin), Marritt at Horseshoe Bay (Marble Falls)

 

Tagged: Bin 555, Jessica Dupuy, llano estacado winery, Lone Star International Wine Competition, Texas Wine of the Month

This past weekend, I had the pleasure of visiting the High Plains of Texas, where among other things (including peanuts and cotton), they grow grapes. For wine. Some of the best wine in the state. In fact, if you’ve recently had what you consider a great bottle of Texas wine, the grapes have probably come from the High Plains. (Most of the wines we have selected for the Texas Monthly Wine of the Month have grapes from this region of the state.)

Aside from the gale-force wind storm that kicked up funnels of dust and a few of our skirts, I enjoyed traversing hundreds of miles with winemakers, grape growers, wine educators and a few other journalists to learn more about why this region is so vital to the Texas wine industry. In short the sandy loam soils, the dramatic temperature changes from day to night, and the dry-as-a-bone weather makes this place a grape haven. You may not have the chance to visit the Panhandle very often but below are some of the key places worth noting in this area:

•                Llano Estacado Winery: One of the larger wineries in the state making a broad range of beautiful wines under the direction of Executive Winemaker Greg Bruni. Some of their more notable selections include Viviana, Viviano, a 2009 unoaked reserve Chardonnay, and an 8-year Chairman’s Reserve port.

•                McPherson Cellars: Owned by Kim McPherson, the son of Llano Estacado co-founder and Texas wine pioneer, Doc McPherson, this winery is the one to watch in Texas. When it comes to making wines representative of Texas terroir, McPherson may actually be a genius. But don’t take my word for it, try for yourself. I’d suggest the 2010 Viognier, the 2010 Rosé of Grenache-Syrah, the 2010 Tré Colore, and the 2010 Rousanne, which was bottled only a few of days ago. Of course, it will be a short while before these are on the market, but the 2009 varieties are worth a try as well. And at about $12-$15 a bottle, you can’t lose.

•                Cap Rock Winery: Under new ownership, the Texas wine community has great hopes for the future of Cap Rock. A few wines to watch from here: 2010 Chenin Blanc, the 2010 Rousanne, and the 21010 Tempranillo.

•                Newsom Vineyards, Bingham Family Vineyards, and Reddy Vineyards: These expansive tracts are home to some of the best of the best grapes in Texas including Bingham Vermentino for Duchman Family Vineyards, Tempranillo for Inwood Estates, and Muscat for Brennan Vineyards.

In the next few months we’ll explore what’s ahead for Texas Wine Education, how the 82nd Legislature will effect the Texas Wine Industry, and we’ll meet a few of the growers who have made such an impact on Texas terroir. Stay tuned!

- Jessica Dupuy

 

 

Tagged: Bingham Family Vineyards, Cap Rock Winery, Jessica Dupuy, llano estacado winery, McPherson Cellars, Newsom Vineyards, Reddy Vineyards, Texas High Plains, texas wine

As part of the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival, the pioneers of the Texas wine industry convened on Saturday, April 2nd at Austin’s Hyatt Regency to share a taste of their top wines paired with a six-course lunch by Executive Chef Kevin Dee.

Among this assembly were Kim McPherson of McPherson Cellars, Ron Yates of Spicewood Vineyards , Mark Hyman of Llano Estacado, Ed Auler of Fall Creek Vineyards, Dan Gatlin of Inwood Estates Vineyards, and Russell Smith of Becker Vineyards. June Rodil, beverage director of Congress restaurant and one of the state’s top sommeliers, led each course pairing and moderated an engaging discussion on the current state of Lone Star Wine.

Below are the pairings:

Baby spinach salad with roasted chiogga and white beets, local strawberries and champagne vinaigrette – McPherson Cellars Syrah Rosé 2009 (~$10)

Quail Confit over baby arugula and butternut squash Risotto with toasted pumpkin seeds – Spicewood Vineyards Semillon Reserve 2007 (~$18)

Chicken scallopine over roasted sweet potatoes and watercress citrus salad with Meyer lemon caper sauce – Llano Estacado Viviana 2009 (~$23)

Strube Ranch shortribs, Pure Luck polenta, braised chard – Fall Creek Vineyards Meritus 2006 (~$40)

Bleu cheese selection – Inwood Estates Vineyards “Cornelious” Tempranillo 2007 (~$40)

Local Strawberries with chocolate torte – Becker Vineyards Vintage Port 2009

Of the courses, our favorites included the chicken scallopine, which presented bright, citrusy flavors that balanced perfectly with the acidity and mild sweetness of Llano Estacado’s Viviana white blend.

We also liked the rich braised shortribs rounded out with the full-bodied, dark cherry notes of the Fall Creek Meritus. (Although the big dark fruits in the Inwood Estates Tempranillo also worked well with this dish.)

Our favorites out of the wines?… all of them. Each of them could hold their own against similar varietals world wide.

In the past year, each of these wineries have had at least one of their wines featured as a Texas Monthly Wine of the Month—half of which were paired with this lunch. And with good reason. Not only have these wineries figured out the key to making good wines, they’ve figured out the key to making good Texas wines, which as the past 15-20 years have shown, has been a long and painstaking process in finding the grapes that work best in the state as well as enduring the unpredictable Texas weather patterns.

And while some of the larger wineries have found consistency and high volume sales with wines such as the Becker Vineyards Viognier, the Fall Creek Chenin Blanc, or the Llano Estacado Chardonnay—all of which sell for around $15 or less—all of the wineries have a selection of wines that reflect a more “hand-crafted,” artisan style that have brought each of these winemakers high esteem through the state including Inwood’s “Cornelious” Tempranillo and Fall Creek’s Meritus.(Both of these have smaller production and fly off the shelves for $30-$40.)

But as Fall Creek’s Ed Auler revealed, “Wines across the state have gotten to a point where the quality and value are balancing out,” meaning you can rely on the merit of the wine you’re buying whether it’s a $10 or $30 bottle… Just one more thing to make Texans proud.

Tagged: Becker Vineyards, Congress restaurant, Fall Creek Vineyards, Inwood Estates Vineyards, Jessica Dupuy, June Rodil, llano estacado winery, McPherson Cellars, Spicewood Winery, Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival, texas wine

Greg Bruni knows a thing or two about wine. A third generation winemaker from California with a degree from the University of California at Davis, and a diverse career in restoring and building California wineries, Bruni has dedicated both his technical know-how and his finely-tuned palate to the art of making good wine. In 1993, he and his wife decided to leave their life in the Santa Cruz mountains and explore a whole new challenge: Texas Wine. Bruni became the head winemaker for Llano Estacado Winery, an estate that was growing by leaps and bounds and having great success with grapes from the High Plains region of Texas.

At the time Bruni was familiar with some Texas wines, but the industry was in its infancy in the early 90s. “I didn’t know what to expect in terms of the viticulture in Texas,” says Bruni. “I had to learn a lot and come into it with an open mind and a pioneering spirit.”

Today, Bruni is Vice President Executive Winemaker and in the past 15 years, the wines he has made with Llano Estacado have garnered silver and gold medals in competitions against wines from all over the world. How does he view the future of Texas Wine? We recently had a chance to sit down with him and find out.

Jessica Dupuy: Texas has come a long way in the past 10 to 20 years with the quality of wine it produces. What do you think it will take to change what people think about Texas wine?

Greg Bruni: Since I’ve been in Texas, I’ve seen a real evolution. There was a time when the wines weren’t as good as they are now across the board in Texas. As we get better as winemakers and grapegrowers then the wines are going to get better.

If we’re going to change what people think about Texas wines, we have to change the way we go about making Texas wines throughout the state.

We’re in the middle of a continental climate, and we need to understand how grapes that we’re growing here that may be indigenous to a Mediterranean climate, for example, are going to yield different chemistries than if we were actually growing them in a Mediterranean climate. All of those things that we balance when making a wine such as acidity and sugars are going to read differently here than they would there. So it’s up to Texas winemakers to understand where the flavors are best for grapes here in Texas.

We make decisions for Llano Estacado wines based on the flavors in our vineyards rather than by sticking to the numbers and chemistry evaluations. In California, for instance, you do both; the chemistry verifies what you’re tasting in the field.

In Texas, if we let the chemistries dictate our decisions, we could lose the flavor we’re looking for. For example, we may lose the fruitiness of our Chenin Blanc if we try to wait to pick our grapes when the sugars are at 22, which is more of a standard number for that grape. Instead, we pick ours when the sugar is around 18 or 19. We’ve had to adapt to what the Texas climate will give us and that’s how you make the best wines.

Jessica Dupuy: We’ve seen a lot of buzz about grape varietals such as Tempranillo and Viognier in Texas. Do you see a particular grape that will rise as a signature Texas grape?

Greg Bruni: We make gorgeous Tempranillo in Texas and beautiful Viongiers. These varieties are very exciting for winemakers here. But at the same time. Llano Estacado and a few other wineries have had a lot of success with more conventional grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, and even Chardonnay.

If you asked the same question about what the best grape is for California, there is no single answer. It depends on which region of California. It could be Cabernet blends, Pinot Noir, or Chardonnay depending on where you are.

You also have to think in terms of history. If you look at Europe, where Chardonnay is well known in Burgundy, Sangiovese is associated with Tuscany and Cabernet with Bordeaux, these are regions that have been producing wine for two millennia.

In California, where different varietals have succeeded in different regions, they’ve been growing grapes in California for more than a century. We’ve only really been growing grapes in Texas for two decades—with the exception of a few of the larger wineries. We don’t quite know who we are yet.

Give it another two decades and the next generation will build on what we’ve done. I have no doubt that we’ll be great. But it’s too soon to tell what a star variety will be.

Jessica Dupuy: Other than time, what do you think will help the Texas Wine industry achieve similar status to California with quality wine?

Greg Bruni: If we’re looking at the Texas Wine Industry we’ve got to have young technicians to take this on into the next generation to improve upon what we’ve started. Education is fundamental.

Think about it like this, when I was going to UC Davis in 1974-77, one of my friends was recruited to go to Chateau St. Michelle in Washington. At the time, we thought he was going to the end of the world. Right around the same time, my family was working on developing vineyards in the Central Coast of California (Paso Robles and Santa Barbara County.) In Texas, wineries such as Llano Estacado and Fall Creek were established.

Fast forward to 2010. Now, the state of Washington has an enormous wine industry with some world-renowned wines. The Central Coast of California has more than 40,000 acres of grapes planted and 300 wineries. In Texas, we may have had visionaries to begin planting grapes with some good success, but we didn’t have the technology, or the trained people.

With the exception of a few wineries, most of what was planted in the 1980s in Texas was the result of a few people wanting to retire on a vineyard. So they invested in the land and they planted grapes. They did their own growing and winemaking. They tripped and fell here and there and many of them are still around today, but the majority of Texas wines are sold directly from the wineries. There are only a handful of wineries that have the type of large-scale distribution that you’d find in California.

The biggest difference between Texas and California over the past 30 years is that California had universities with dedicated enology programs, an established industry, and a rich pool of candidates with the technical experience to help make the best possible wines. That wasn’t the case in Texas.

If we can get the education system set up, we’ll be giving our winemakers the technicians and educated workforce so that the work is done in a more scientific order. You have to have people that know how to make it, sell it, financially plan, and know the business model. We’re starting to see that with Texas Tech, Texas A&M, and Grayson College. It’s only a matter of time before we’re up to speed with California.

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: greg bruni, llano estacado winery, Meet the Winemaker, texas wine

When most people think of the High Plains of Texas, they think of tumbleweeds, cotton fields, oil wells, and Texas Tech University football. But few people are aware that the High Plains is the second largest grape growing region of Texas (and the third largest in the nation) with more than 3,500 acres under vine.

Located at 3,400 feet above sea level on flat terrain, the High Plains experience long, hot, dry summers with cool, dry evenings. Its natural sandy loam soil and average annual rainfall of eighteen inches make the perfect climate for grapevines to produce good fruit with excellent sugar and acid levels for winemaking.

In fact, the region has produced numerous wines that have garnered awards and medals in national and international competitions. With this in mind, it should come as no surprise that this month’s “Wine of the Month” hails from the High Plains.

Selected with the help of sommelier June Rodil of Austin’s esteemed sushi den, Uchi, this month’s wine of the month is the 2005 “Viviano” from Llano Estacado winery. This Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese blend is Rodil’s top pick for its artisanal quality that stands up well with a big Texas steak.

“I recently did a blind tasting of this bottling with other Italian-inspired Texas wines for the Sommelier Journal in the presence of the Texas Agricultural Department and it rated highest in it’s flight—even against an internationally recognized Italian wine, Coltibuono Chianti Classico,” says Rodil. “My tasting notes for this wine read: ‘pencil, graphite, black cherry, and ripe blackberries with sweet oak notes and warm chocolate. Definitely a lusher and richer style of fruit, but complete and in harmony.’”

Indeed, the Viviano is a nice big wine that lands on the higher end of Texas wines with a hefty price tag at around $35. And while it certainly pleases as a great food wine, Rodil points out that “The Viviano, though impressive, is priced at $34.99 for purchase at Llano’s website while the Coltibuono is approximately $16 retail. With Texas’s agriculture screaming for growth and quality, we simply need more vines under land and more revenue to decrease our prices. It’s great to see, however, that we seem to be on our way in quality.”

Though relatively smooth and balanced to drink, this wine does have a little tannin on the palate, meaning you’ll likely get a little bit of that “kitten tongue” feel on your first few sips. But the balance this wine has is what makes it great with food. As mentioned above, the Viviano is a natural pairing for a nice big steak, but the rich, sweeter fruit in it makes it a great pick for game dishes like lamb, venison, or buffalo.

Winery: Llano Estacado Winery

Retail Price:  $35-$37

Availability: Specialty wine and liquor retailers such as Twin Liquors and Spec’s

Tagged: June Rodil, llano estacado winery, Texas Monthly WIne of the Month, uchi, Viviano

A Few Texas Wine Facts:

Texas is the 5th largest wine producing state in the country.

Texas is the 4th largest wine consuming state in the country.

Texas has more than 3,500 acres of vineyards planted throughout the state.

Texas has more than 180 wineries across the state, a few of which are producing award-winning wines that are standing up against California, French, and Spanish wines.

Last weekend Texas winemakers, grape growers, sommeliers and food and wine writers met in Dallas for two important conferences, The Go Texan Drink Local Wine Conference and the 2009 Texas Sommelier Conference. For four days the world revolved around wine, wine, and more wine.

Texas Wine: Eat Local, Drink Local

The Go Texan Drink Local Wine Conference commenced Friday evening with a festive winemaker’s dinner at Le Cordon Bleu and continued Saturday with a few panelist seminars focusing on how to get more people to drink Texas wine.

You may not know it, but Texas winemakers are winning gold and silver medals in wine competitions nationwide. In recent years, Texas wine quality has significantly improved as winemakers have started to move from growing the Bordeaux and California basic three (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot) and have experimented with grapes that are less well known, but better in the Texas soils. Grapes such as Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Malbec, and a handful of other Rhone, Italian, and Spanish varietals.

“Texas makes the best Texas wine in the world,” says conference panelist Greg Bruni, executive wine maker for Llano Estacado Winery, which has been at the forefront of growing Texas-friendly grapes in the state. “But you have to go in with the game plan to grow what works best here.”

But how do you change the perception that Texas doesn’t know how to make good wine? Yes the French have been doing it for centuries, but many forget that in the 1960s, Robert Mondavi was trucking around with his bottles of wine begging people to just take a taste. It wasn’t until the 1973 that a little Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena and a robust Cabernet Sauvignon from Stag’s Leap blew the minds of the French when they won a very highly publicized blind tasting.

Of course, gaining national recognition is secondary to simply getting Texans to drink their own wine.

You don’t go to Italy to taste Spanish Rioja and you certainly don’t go to France to drink Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It simply makes sense to drink to local product. But while we’re proudly savoring our Texas-grown vegetables, artisanal cheeses, and grass-fed meats that restaurants are so fervently serving, it would be great if restaurants were supporting their local wine-producing farmers as well with a few Texas bottles on the wine list.

Texas Twitter Taste-Off

Having discussed these challenges for Texas wines for the better part of the day, the next step was to actually taste a few of them. Well ok, more than a few. There were 45 of them. And just to add a little spice to the festivity, the tasting was presented as the first-ever “Texas Twitter Taste-Off,” which had more than 50 conference panelists, writers and bloggers, and wine enthusiasts tasting and “Tweeting” their way through the Texas-sized list of featured wines. Of course, the “Tweets” got more and more interesting as the one-and-a-half hour event went on. The taste-off winners included:

Best White Wine – Dry Division: Flat Creek Estate, Pinot Blanc, 2008

Best White Wine – Sweet Division: Haak Vineyards & Winery, Madeira Blanc du Bois, 2006

Best Red Wine – Dry Division: 
 Inwood Estate Vineyards Tempranillo-Cabernet, 2005

Best Red Wine – Sweet Division: 
 Sandstone Cellars IV Red Port-style wine, 2006

Texas Sommelier Conference 2009

On Sunday, the conference shifted from local to global with the kick off of the 5th Annual Texas Sommelier’s Conference at the Four Seasons Las Colinas in Irving Texas. Here, more than 150 sommeliers and wine aficionados from around the state convened for a series of tastings and informative seminars on everything ranging from Spanish Riojas and Austrian Grüner Veltliners to the increasingly popular rice wine, Sake and yes, even Texas wines had a special preview.

While the conference was taking place, there were also 21 Texas sommeliers competing in a blind tasting for the award of Texas’ Best Sommelier. The prize includes round-trip tickets, tuition, and a scholarship for a Court of Master Sommeliers certification program.

The winners: John Honefenger of Tony’s restaurant in Houston won 3rd place, Anibal Calcagno of Brenner’s Steakhouse in Houston took 2nd place, and June-Ann Rodil of Uchi in Austin stole the show with first place.

Tagged: brenner's steakhouse, flat creek, haak vineyards, inwood estate, llano estacado winery, sandstone cellars