Texas Monthly February 2013

Once a year, I sort through my dining notes and come up with a list of my favorite dining spots of roughly the past twelve months. We modestly call the resulting story, traditionally published in February, “Where To Eat Now.” On its face, it is an honor roll of the best and the tastiest new restaurants Texas has to offer. Practically speaking, though, I think of it as:  “I Eat Out So You Don’t Waste Your Money on a Dud.”

This year I made a dozen choices, whereas normally I select only ten. (What can I say—2012 was a very good year.) The types of places covered a lot of territory, from a Vietnamese cafe in Austin to Texas-centric meat palaces in Fort Worth and Houston, and from a French (but not too French) bistro in Dallas to an international vegetable palace in Houston. In between were a seafood restaurant and a number of places that can only be described by the all-encompassing adjective “eclectic.”

The story appears in the February 2013 Texas Monthly, an issue that is special for two reasons: it takes an in-depth look at our state’s six major cities and, not coincidentally, celebrates the fortieth anniversary of the founding of the magazine  (“Happy birthday to us, happy birthd . . . . .  “). If you don’t follow the restaurant scene, “Where To Eat Now” is a quick and easy way to catch up. If you do keep up, you can see whether you agree with me or not.

You can also take a little trip back to the dining scene in Texas circa 1973, when the magazine began publication. The write-up for each city has a quickie overview of the best-known restaurants from that era (raise your hand if you remember the Sir Loin House in Houston, Karam’s in San Antonio, the Carriage House in Fort Worth,  the Capital Oyster Company in Austin, Ewald’s in Dallas, or Casa del Sol in El Paso’s sister city, Juárez, Mexico).

I hope you’re a subscriber, but in case you’re not, here’s a run-down of the restaurants we selected. You can get the full details online at texasmonthly.com or in the magazine, available on newsstands now. To be eligible for “Where To Eat Now,” a restaurant had to have opened between November 1 2011, and November 1, 2012.

AUSTIN: Elizabeth Street Café and Salty Sow (honorable mention to Clark’s Oyster Bar, Lenoir)

DALLAS: Boulevardier, Driftwood, and Oak (honorable mention to FT33, Sissy’s Southern Kitchen and Bar)

EL PASO: Red Mountain Bistro

FORT WORTH: Woodshed Smokehouse

HOUSTON: Oxheart, Roost, Triniti, Underbelly (second locations were not eligible—sorry, Uchi; honorable mention to Lucille’s, Provisions, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop)

SAN ANTONIO: Bliss (honorable mention to Bite, Nao, Sustenio).

Tagged: Bite, Bliss, Boulevardier, Clark's Oyster Bar, Driftwood, Elizabeth Street Cafe, FT 33, Lenoir, Lucille's, Nao, Oak, Oxheart, Provisions, Red Mountain Bistro, Roost, Salty Sow, Sissy's Southern Kitchen and Bar, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, Sustenio, Triniti, Underbelly, Where To Eat Now, Woodshed Smokehouse

Exciting news for all the Houston foodies out there: the city is hosting a myriad of chef-organized, chef-led culinary tours in 2013. The “Where the Chefs Eat” Houston Culinary Tours started in 2010 as a means of teaching diners about the Houston food scene and all its intricacies and diversities.

Proceeds from the tours benefit Foodways Texas, a nonprofit organization that promotes and celebrates the diverse food cultures of Texas. This year, a number of talented chefs will be leading the tours including James Beard nominated chefs Robert del Grande, Anita Jaisinghani, and Levi Goode and The Next Iron Chef’s Bryan Caswell, Top Chef Masters’ Monica Pope, and Top Chef Just Desserts’ Rebecca Masson.

“Houston is a great town for food and culture, and through the culinary tours, we get to share that with people–Houstonians and tourists alike! It has singlehandedly changed the way the country views Houston chefs and the Houston culinary scene,” Monica Pope, owner/chef of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, says.

Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Chris Shepherd of Underbelly took guests to Houston’s prime places for eastern-Asia-inspired fare. Pictured here: Korean BBQ at Nam Gang. Photo taken by Shannon O’Hara.

“I participate because I love Houston,” Ryan Pera, owner/chef of Revival Market, says. “There is so much to explore on a culinary level–so many diverse restaurants and markets to try. It’s a great way to show others what I believe is unique and special about our city.”

The culinary tours are limited to sixteen participants each and cost $180 per person. Tour descriptions – taken directly from the press release – are below. To purchase tickets, see this link.

Sunday, January 13: Farm with Randy Evans, Claire Smith and Monica Pope
Get outta town! Canopy and Shade Chef Claire Smith, Chef Randy Evans of Haven restaurant and Sparrow Bar + Cookshop’s Monica Pope venture beyond the Loop to celebrate all things locally-grown. Visit each of the chefs’ favorite farms for pick-your-own produce and a tour of the land. Then, chase down some of Houston’s top food trucks known for their locally-sourced cuisine. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, January 20 – Korean with Chris Shepherd and Ryan Pera
Join Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd as they spotlight the ‘underbelly’ of Korean cuisine in Houston. Guests will go beyond barbecue, discovering traditional Korean fare in everything from a classic noodle house and Korean sushi bar to a Long Point Road mainstay and authentic Korean grocery store. Live octopus, anyone? On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, February 17 – Oyster with Bryan Caswell and Robb Walsh
Catch the bus when cookbook author Robb Walsh and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef set out in search of all-things oyster. Discover where to find the best bounty in the city, helpful shucking tips and get a lesson on the difference between East Coast and Gulf varieties. Caswell and Walsh will also highlight the local seafood counters selling Galveston Bay oysters, before bellying up to a few H-Town oyster bars for a taste of the sought-after seafood. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, March 17 – Seafood with Bryan Caswell and Levi Goode
Celebrate living along the Gulf Coast with a seafood-filled day in the city. Ride along with avid fisherman and Reef Chef Bryan Caswell, as he teams up with Goode Company president Levi Goode for an exploration of Houston’s top seafood selections. Among the day’s stops, guests will check out a soul food spot that draws crowds for its crab claws and rich gumbo, dig into top-notch sushi and discover where the chefs shop for the best catch in town. On sale Feb. 1, 2013.

Sunday, April 21 – Vietnamese with Ryan Pera and Monica Pope
As home to the largest Vietnamese population in Texas and the third-largest in the U.S., it’s safe to say that Houston is well-versed in the art of Vietnamese culture and cuisine. Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Monica Pope of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop share their favorite spots to find pho, bò bía and bánh mì. On sale March 1, 2013.

Sunday, May 19 – Pig with Chris Shepherd and Robert del Grande
Pigs have recently been on the front burner of some of the nation’s most sought-after kitchens-much to the dismay of animals of the porcine variety. But these days, the culinary masterminds are leaving little behind, thanks to an emphasis on nose-to-tail cooking and a little epicurean wherewithal. Tag along with Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and RDG + Bar Annie’s Robert del Grande as they share their favorite places to find, buy and delight in the city’s best pork. Head to a sustainable shop in the Heights to learn about locally raised heritage pigs, before heading out in the city to taste how different cultures put their spin on the savory meat. On sale April 1, 2013.

Sunday, June 23 – Taco with Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan
Any local can tell you, regular taco consumption just goes with the territory in H-Town. But around here, the sizzling fajitas have to share the spotlight with more than just Tex-Mex. Ride along with The Pass and Provisions’ Chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan as they spotlight the rolled-and-wrapped fare in Houston. From breakfast tacos and barbacoa varieties to Korean lettuce-wraps and taqueria-style selections, guests will walk away with a whole new appreciation for the take-along treat. On sale May 1, 2013.

Sunday, July 21 – Long Point Road with Bryan Caswell and Chris Shepherd
Anyone that’s ever driven down Long Point Road in West Houston’s Spring Branch district knows that it’s a melting pot for the city’s culinary scene. Join Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef as they guide guests on a diverse and well-edited selection of their favorite undiscovered hole-in-the-walls. From wallet-friendly taco trucks and authentic Thai food to Korean barbecue and Korean fried chicken, it’s an eclectic mix of cuisines that are sure to please. On sale June 3, 2013.

Sunday, August 18 – Vegetarian with Robert del Grande and Anita Jaisinghani
Going meatless in the Lone Star State isn’t always easy, but Indika’s chef Anita Jaisinghani and Chef Robert Del Grande of RDG + Bar Annie are teaming up to prove Texas can turn out vegetarian fare just as well as anyone. Hop on the bus as both James Beard-nominated chefs share their favorite meatless menus in the city and point out the traditional places that knock vegetarian offerings out of the park. From Indian dosas and a Vietnamese mainstay to traditional basen ladoo at a 100 percent vegetarian-owned biz, guests will delight in a diverse mix of animal-free delicacies. On sale July 1, 2013.

Sunday, September 22 -BBQ with Levi Goode and Robb Walsh
Goode Company president Levi Goode and Legends of Texas Barbecue cookbook author Robb Walsh team up to showcase the most interesting barbecue Houston has to offer. Get ready for an array of offerings from Tex-Mex barbacoa tacos to interior Mexican, cabrito al pastor and lamb barbacoa, to falling-off-the-bone ribs and dirty rice at a family-owned, Bayou City-staple. On sale Aug. 1, 2013.

Sunday, October 13 – Brewery with Rebecca Masson, Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner
Spend the day brewery hopping with Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson, Hay Merchant’s Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner, the founder of Saint Arnold-Texas’ oldest craft brewery. From grain to glass, guests will get an inside glimpse at the beer-making process at four of Houston’s most ground-breaking breweries. To round out the experience, a handful of the city’s top food trucks will be on site to serve up savory street fare with a modern twist. Discover everything from a mobile pizza biz and Vietnamese vendor to a sassy sandwich maker and comfort food truck. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Sunday, October 27 – Day of the Dead with Hugo Ortega and David Cordua
Join restaurateur-chef Hugo Ortega–of Montrose’s Hugo’s–and Chef David Cordua of Americas for an afternoon filled with cuisine and culture. Stop by the Museum District where a local gallery celebrates art, music and the practices of Mexico during a series of Día de los Muertos events. Later, the group will dig into savory snapper a la plancha at a Mexican mainstay, take a guided tour of Airline Market and swing by a Heights bakery for pan de los muertos. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Saturday, November 9 - Southern Comfort with Randy Evans and Rebecca Masson
Take a trip down memory lane and enjoy the best homestyle fare the city has to offer. Haven’s Chef Randy Evans and Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson take guests on a tour of the comfort food restaurants that take them back to their childhood. From a momma-approved pie shop and a Cajun-inspired soul food joint to an old-fashioned fried chicken spot and an old-school barbecue classic, guests will be treated to all of the true flavors of the south. On sale Oct. 1, 2013.

Sunday, December 8 – Chinatown with Justin Yu and Ryan Pera
Grab a seat alongside Oxheart’s Justin Yu and Ryan Pera of Revival Market as they share the secrets and standouts of both Houston’s Chinatowns. Join them as they highlight delicious dim sum destinations and visit a couple of Vietnamese outposts known for their bahn cuon, bánh mì and spicy crawfish. Plus, learn the ins and outs of navigating one of the largest Asian markets in the city. On sale Nov. 1, 2013.

Tagged: Anita Jaisinghani, Brock Wagner, Bryan Caswell, Chris Shepherd, Culinary Tours, David Cordua, Fluff Bake Bar, Goode Company, Hay Merchant, Houston, Hugo Ortega, Justin Yu, Kevin Floyd, Layne Lynch, Levi Goode, Monica Pope, Oxheart, Randy Evans, RDG + Bar, rebecca masson, reef, Revival Market, Robb Walsh, Robert del Grande, Saint Arnold, Setih Siegel-Gardner, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, Terrence Gallivan, The Pass and Provisions, Underbelly, Where the Chefs Eat, Where the Chefs Eat Culinary Tours

Barely over a month ago, Monica Pope unveiled her newest restaurant creation – Sparrow Bar + Cookshop – in Houston’s Fourth Ward. Through her years of cooking in professional kitchens, Monica has built a remarkable reputation as a pioneer in the local food movement as well as one of the most talented chefs in the state of Texas. In a recent interview with TEXAS MONTHLY, Monica talked in detail about the concept behind Sparrow Bar + Cookshop and where she is at in the second act of her culinary career. Throughout my conversation with Monica, I was surprised by how remarkably candid she was about her decision to start all over again with a fresh, new restaurant concept that was unlike any she had ever done before. In a conversation that last over an hour, Monica admitted she felt disconnected from her culinary roots while running her former restaurant t’afia over the past few years. This year, however, Monica made a myriad of bold changes in order to reconnect with her lifelong mission of “changing the way Houston eats.”

Sparrow Bar + Cookshop is without a doubt Monica’s most authentic creation thus far – a true reflection of how far she has come as a Houston chef. The restaurant’s food is non-fussy, affordable, and, oh yeah, delicious – exactly what you would expect from a chef who is remarkably gifted but doesn’t take herself or her fame too seriously. Housed in the same location as its predecessor, t’afia, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop is a restaurant that will certainly be one of the best new Houston restaurants of 2012. Here, Monica discusses the inspiration behind Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, the Houston culinary scene, and the brand new Monica – or Monica 2.0, as she likes to call it.

Monica Pope. Photo taken by Debora Smail.

What planted the seed for the new restaurant concept?

In a lot of ways, it’s an ongoing evolution of myself. Coming from a teenager saying that I was going to change the way Houston eats and me trying to understand what that’s meant to me personally. Five or six years ago when Hurricane Ike hit, it was a wakeup call for me. I started thinking about my daughter and what her life will be like, and that turned into me thinking about my own life and my own purpose. I said to myself, “If the world were to end tomorrow, would I want to continue to live my life the way I am right now?” And I wasn’t sure I could answer that affirmatively… A couple of years ago, a chef friend of mine was crashing with us at my house. He and I would be talking in the kitchen, and my daughter would run in and try to interrupt us. She’d be dying to say something, and one day she randomly shouted out, “It’s like you guys are having a campfire.” It’s weird, but what she said really got me thinking. I thought about our primal beginnings as caveman going out, creating fire, and gathering around the campfire. It made me realize that that’s what I’ve been trying to do for twenty years: create a campfire discussion with different restaurants and different foods. I started thinking about my place in all this and what I meant when I said I wanted to change the way people eat, how they eat, what they eat, where they eat, where they get their food from, etc. For me, it’s so tied into slow food, eating locally, and practicing Alice Waters’ tenants of good cooking.

Let’s move on to t’afia. Why did you decide to do away with the restaurant? Did it not work anymore? 

I wouldn’t say that. The restaurant business has changed. I’ve changed. There were challenges and questions I had that I needed to answer for myself. I’ve talked to food writers, photographers, and other chefs, and we all notice a change. The world now has Twitter, Facebook, and social media, and I feel like I’m being thrust into dealing with all that. Twenty years ago, I’d open a restaurant and people just came. Nowadays, you have to be in the kitchen, but also connecting with diners and the media in order to stay relevant. It’s a completely different thing, and I’m not sure how to keep up. When you’re life is changing dramatically around you, it can be frightening to know what’s your role in all of it. In some ways, I felt like I was stuck in a box that wasn’t me anymore. It didn’t work for me, and it didn’t work for Houston. I took the opportunity to say, “I need to create a space that I want to be in.” I wanted to start over and show where I’m at in my life and where I think Houston is at in 2012.

Sparrow Bar + Cookshop. Photo taken by Debora Smail.

How is the food different at Sparrow Bar + Cookshop than it was at t’afia?

I’m pushing myself more. I understand that a restaurant and a chef have to reinvent themselves in order to keep up with what’s going on. I knew what the impression was with t’afia through the years, like ‘Oh that’s that weird, healthy place.’ or ‘Oh yeah, that place is really preachy about local food.’ Nowadays, farm-to-table is no big deal; it’s not weird to people anymore. I’m at a place in my life where I feel like the local-food community has finally been created. A lot of restaurants and chefs are now committed to using local food, like I did twenty years ago when everyone thought it was crazy. I’m finally putting what I believe in on the plate.

Do you think Houston is where it should be at in terms of respecting and utilizing local ingredients?

They say it takes nine years to grow a farmers market. It has taken us nine, ten years to grow ours, so I think that’s definitely accurate. It’s amazing where we’ve come to. When I started talking about local food twenty years ago, people thought I belonged to a cult or something and needed to be saved. Ten years ago, things started to shift. Five years ago, it was like ‘”Okay, this is really coming together.” Once the chefs got more involved, that’s when things really started to change. Customers started paying attention to what chefs were doing, and I think Houston chefs are pushing Houston forward, despite the fact that not that not many years ago we were dead last in a lot of sustainable issues.

I want to talk about that. How do you think Houston ranks compared to places like Austin and Dallas in terms of working with farmers and utilizing local ingredients?

I’ve always said – and I don’t want to hurt anybody’s feelings – but we’re never going to be like Austin. It’s a whole different culture there. The chef-farmer connection there is much stronger. The whole agenda of “Keep Austin Weird” is what makes it work there. That’s the hip thing to do there, and that’s great, but the depth of Houston’s ethnic communities, culinary communities, and overall culture is so deep and textured. We’re trying to take credit for that, and people keep pushing us aside. I mean, you can’t do Top Chef Texas and not put Houston in there. Seriously, who did we tick off? Houston has more of a secede mentality than any other city in Texas, and Texas already has a reputation for wanting to secede from the rest of the nation. Houston is like, “Whatever, we’re better than Dallas, we’re better than Austin, we’re better than San Antonio, and we know that.” We’re just a more interesting town across the board.

Are you entering the most creative period of your life?

I’m in a period of my life where I know what makes me feel good. I’m comfortable with who I am and what I am. There was a rocky moment at the restaurant when I didn’t know if I could handle it all. It’s been challenging for twenty years. All of my restaurant team has been with me through these years, and we’ve become a family. I’m taking charge, and I have to be okay with that. I’m unbelievably grateful to my staff for allowing me figure out what it is I want to express. When I first talked about this project, everybody got behind me and said, “Great, let’s do this.” To see that enthusiasm and faith is breathtaking. I’m finally trusting myself and what I want to do. I’m not questioning things like I used to.

There seem to be a lot more celebrity chefs in Texas nowadays. You personally appeared on Top Chef Masters. Is being a celebrity chef something you have wanted to shy away from in recent years?

I don’t want to have twenty restaurants all over the country. I don’t even want two restaurants in the same city. That’s not me. I love my food family, my home, my restaurant, my city. I’m not interested in more money or more fame. What I’m interested in doing is changing the way Houston eats and continuing to share my story.

Sparrow Bar & Cookshop – 3701 Travis Street in Houston.  Lunch: Tuesday – Friday 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday 5 p.m. – 11 p.m. Brunch: Saturday 10 a.m. – 3 p.m. Bar menu: Tuesday – Thursday 10 a.m. – 11 p.m., Friday – Saturday 10 a.m. – midnight. 713-524-6922, www.sparrowhouston.com, Facebook, Twitter. 

Tagged: Houston, Layne Lynch, Monica Pope, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, t'afia, Top Chef Masters