Eat My Words

Friday, November 4, 2011

Texas Wine: Grape Grower Neal Newsom, “Now It’s Our Turn”

It’s not every day you get to meet the man who grows the grapes that make up your favorite wine. The very guy who painstakingly plans throughout the year on when to irrigate, when to prune, when to net the vineyards, what to do when there’s a hail, heavy winds, late freezes and scorching heat. (And I’m probably only scratching the surface of what goes into vineyard management, aka grape farming.) So it’s a particularly special treat when one of the most well known grape growers in the state joins you (and a restaurant full of other wine lovers) for a dinner paired with wines made from grapes from his vineyards.

Such was the case Thursday evening when Neal and Janice Newsom of Newsom Vineyards trekked some few hundred miles down from the Lubbock area to Fredericksburg for a special dinner in their honor at the Cabernet Grill; a restaurant known not only for its great Texas fare, but for its Texas-only wine menu.

Newsom comes from a cotton family with dating back for more than 100 years in either growing the ubiquitous row crop or managing the cotton gins that helped produce the commodity. It was a path he originally began to take in his younger career helping his father manage a West Texas cotton gin and small cotton farm before following a bit of inspiration he received in college from Texas Tech professor and Texas Wine pioneer Dr.Roy Mitchell and planting his first acreage of grape in 1986; a vineyard of Cabernet Sauvignon.

At the celebratory vintner’s dinner at Cabernet Grill, winemakers from across the state gathered with a dining room full of more than 70 guests to applaud Newsom for his Texas-sized leap of faith almost 30 years ago. In attendance was Gary Gilstrap of Texas Hills Vineyard who presented a beautiful Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese from Newsom’s stock as well as Cord Switzer of Fredericksburg Winery who was one of Newsom’s first buyers. (And one of the first to gain Texas wine recognition with a silver medal from the Chicago International Wine competition with a dessert Orange Muscat wine from Newsom Vineyards.) Dan Gatlin of Inwood Estate Vineyards spoke briefly on Newsom’s contribution to Texas wine industry saying “I’ve done a lot of research across North America and I can promise that there are no better grapes than from Newsom Vineyards–hands down.” (more…)

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Thursday, April 1, 2010

Texas Wine: The Hill Country Wine Trail

Did you know: Texas has a total of eight federally-approved viticultural regions, or “appellations” throughout the state and a total of nine official wine trails to help guide interested wine enthusiasts throughout these regions?

For this month’s column on Texas Wine, we’d like to introduce you to the Texas Hill Country Wine Trail, which encompasses three of the Texas appellations including The Texas Hill Country, the Fredericksburg in the Texas Hill Country, and the Bell Mountain Viticultural areas.

(NOTE: An appellation is a legally defined and protected geographical indication used to identify where the grapes for a wine are grown. This is important for winemakers in being able to place a label on their bottle designating where their grapes originated. It’s a distinction that adds more credibility to a bottle of wine—as an example, check out any good bottle of French wine and you’ll find an appellation label.)

We’re starting with this wine trail, if not because it represents the first region in the state to receive an appellation designation, then because it is the second-largest appellation in the United States spanning more than 15,000 square miles—and it doesn’t hurt that this area has some excellent wines and beautiful scenery along the way. See a full list of wineries here.

This trail stretches as far south as New Braunfels to as far north as Lampasas and stretches west of Fredericksburg and east to just outside the Austin city limits. With this much turf to cover, it’s advisable to make a three- to four-day road trip out of this trail, stopping at some of the area’s top restaurants, guesthouses, and sights along the way—and if you’re in the Fredericksburg area, don’t miss a dinner at the Cabernet Grill, where chef/owner Ross Burtwell serves up hearty rustic-American fare accompanied by a 100% Texan wine list.

This time of year, spring is ushered in by a flourish of wildflowers. Now is the time to take advantage of the colorful views and the fantastic weather. I recently made an excursion to check some of these wineries off of my list. Below are a few of my favorites:

Mandola Estate Winery – As the Italian name implies, Mandola’s  specializes in Italian grapes grown in Texas soil for their portfolio. Not only is the name synonymous with great food, but Mandola’s now stands for great wine, too; particularly the crisp and fruity (but not too sweet) Vermentino. This aromatic wine will be great for the warmer, eh em, hotter days of summer and would be fantastic with a garlicky shrimp dish or simply as a refreshing cocktail on its own.

I also liked the Dolcetto, a classic Italian grape meaning “slightly sweet.” But don’t be fooled, the sweetness refers to just the grape. This bold red wine is a sturdy, slightly tannic wine, with no sweetness at all, making a great partner for a good juicy steak.

Texas Hills Vineyard – Owner Gary Gilstrap has stumbled onto something at his Johnson City winery as the only winemaker producing a straight Rousanne, a classic French grape primarily grown in the Rhone Valley (an almost identical match to the Texas Hill Country climate and terrain). This bright white wine is crisp and light, but is layered with great apricot and honey flavors.

I also liked the Toro de Tejas, a rich Tempranillo blended with a little Cabernet Sauvignon making a great earthy wine that is surprisingly smooth and low on tannin, meaning your tongue won’t feel rough after you try a taste. “To me, the Tempranillo is the grape of Texas,” says Gilstrap. “It will rise to be one of the best grapes grown in this state.”

Becker Vineyard – Perhaps the largest and most widely known vineyard in the Fredericksburg area, Becker Vineyards has made a name for producing a consist portfolio of wines. I had a chance to taste their 2007 Prairie Rotie, an earthy red wine made in the Rhone-style of Southern France. This wine does have a little tannin, but its dark fruit flavors would work very well with wild game such as elk or pheasant.

Fall Creek Vineyards – A trip to Fall Creek is like visiting a little piece of Napa Valley, except for the long, windy drive around Lake Buchanan. Like Becker, Fall Creek is known for its consistency, even with its premiere wine, Meritus, which is a blend of different grapes each year. But as owner and winemaker Ed Auler says, “We take the best of the grapes we have each year to make the best blend we can make. That always varies from year to year when you’re working with Texas weather.”

Meritus is a great wine indeed, especially if you can get a hold of the 2004 vintage, which won Double Gold at the Taster’s Guild International Competition. But I’m particularly a fan of their latest release, the 2008 Tempranillo made from grapes grown at the Salt Lick Vineyard in Driftwood—the very same Salt Lick of barbecue fame. I’m not sure if it’s because these grapes were grown on legendary barbecue land, but this big, juicy-meets-earthy wine is an excellent mate for smoked brisket and sausage. At the same time, this new release from Fall Creek is elegant and sophisticated, even if the meal you’re pairing it with permits you to lick your fingers.

Other wines not to miss: Grape Creek Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Syrah, Alamosa Wine Cellars 2006 Palette, Pedernales Cellars 2009 Stonewall Muscat Canelli.

But don’t take my word for it. When it comes to wine, if you like it, then it’s good. It doesn’t matter what anyone else thinks. Do take advantage of this time of year. The Hill Country Wine Trail is hosting a Wine and Wildflowers event April 9-11 and 16-18 with wine and cheese pairings, wildflower seed packets, and a 15-percent discount on three-bottle purchases at each of the trail’s 24 wineries. The cost is $35 per person or $60 per couple for an all access pass to this seasonal event. And don’t forget, the 25th Annual Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival kicks off April 15 with multi-course, wine-paired lunches at Fall Creek Vineyards, Becker Vineyards, and Stone House Vineyards.

Enjoy the Texas Hill Country Wine Trail – But please remember, Drink Responsibly!

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