Eat My Words

Friday, June 15, 2012

Texas Wine of the Month: Llano Estacado Winery 1836 Red Table Wine, 2008

Texas Wine fo the Month: Llano Estacado Winery 1836, 2008

Of the many battles fought on the vast Texas soil, there are a few that rate as pivotal moments in Texas history. One such skirmish was the famed Battle of San Jacinto. On April 20, 1836, in a part of northern Mexico known as “Tejas,” a group of settlers won a decisive battle leading to the formation of the Independent Republic of Texas, and eventually independence from Mexico. This month’s Texas Wine of the Month was made in celebration of those who fought for the Republic: Llano Estacado Winery 1836 Red Table Wine, 2008.

This month’s selection comes from the suggestion of Suzanne Pike, general manager and wine steward for Bin 555 Restaurant in San Antonio. A long time lover of wine, Pike took note of the 1836 the second she tasted it. “I like this wine because of its balance of flavors,” says Pike who detects hints of blueberries, currant, nutmeg, mocha, and a little smoke.

Llano Estacado Winery has been a long time player in the Texas wine industry offering a wide range of Texas (and non Texas) wines at affordable prices throughout most of our commonly known retail outlets. But they also focus on premium wines as well. In fact, in 5 out of 12 years one of their other top red blends, Viviano (~$30), has walked away with one of the prestigious “Grand Awards” as Texas Best Red Wine in the Lone Star International Wine Competition.

The 1836 is just as worthy of such praise. It is a red blend of Texas grapes primarily sourced from the Mont Sec vineyard in West Texas. (In the Chihuahuan desert.) The primary blend is 50.9 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 31.1 percent Syrah with smaller percentages of Petite Verdot, Malbec and Sangiovese—giving the wine an extra juicy kick of fruit.

The diverse variety of grapes each bring a different element to the wine. Perhaps its the spirit of the battle for the Republic that has been bottled in this wine, which exudes bold structure from the Cabernet Sauvignon, a smoky meatiness from the Syrah, ripe fruit from the other varietals and crisp acidity, perhaps from the hot days and cool nights and elevation of the Chihuahuan desert.

“To me it is the perfect summer BBQ wine,” says Pike who suggests that the 1836 would be perfect with grilled ribeye or smoked brisket or ribs. “This is an example of how Texas wines have come a long way. We’re starting to see beautiful fruit, and well-balanced wines that could stand side-by-side next to the wines of California. Everyone who enjoys a good glass of wine should really try what Texas has to offer.”

Though it’s certainly a heartier wine than the lighter summer whites and rosés that are often suggested for this time of year, don’t shy away from a wine like this. Just be sure to chill it for about 15-20 minutes in the refrigerator before serving—trust me, you won’t regret it.

Wine: Llano Estacado Winery, 1836 Red Table Wine, 2009

Retail Price: ~$30

Availability: At some Spec’s locations throughout the state as well as at some restaurants including Bob’s Steakhouse (Dallas), Four Seasons Resort & Club (Las Colinas), Charivari Restaurant & Bar (Houston), Kata (Houston), Bin 555 (San Antonio), Hudson’s on the Bend (Austin), Marritt at Horseshoe Bay (Marble Falls)

 

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Friday, October 14, 2011

Texas Wine of the Month: Duchman Family Winery Montepulciano 2009

A lesson in Italian pronunciation…

VinoVee-noh

Chianti - Key-on-tee

Prosecco – Pro-sek-ko

Montepulciano – (you can do this…) Mon-teh-pool-chee-ah-no

Again… Mon-teh-pool-chee-ah-no…

Multo Bene!Mool-toe Beh-nay!

Don’t let the pronunciation intimidate you from ordering it if you see it on a menu. Among Italy’s well known wines including Chianti, Barolo, Barbaresco, and Super Tuscans, you should know Montepulciano as a red Italian grape variety widely planted throughout central and southern Italy producing a deep-colored wine with moderate acidity and ripened dark fruit.

(Not to throw a wrench in your brief wine education here, but Montepulciano should not be confused with Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, which is actually a highly respected Sangiovese-based wine from Montepulciano, a medieval hill village in the Chianti region of Tuscany.)

But for the sake of this post, all you need to know is that Montepulciano is an Italian varietal that just happens to be doing very well in Texas, and Duchman Family Vineyards has one to prove it—and at a decent price too! (~$15 retail.) Looking for a great food wine to serve at your next dinner party? this is the one.

It has a great dark fruit character on the nose and palate with a bit of tannic texture, but not near enough to make your mouth begin to pucker. It’s a tad high in acidity, which means you’ll likely begin to salivate after letting this sit on your tongue for a while. Acidity is a great component of wine that gives it its structure and vibrance. And a higher level of acidity, makes for a great wine to enjoy with food, particularly foods that balance that acidity such as classic Italian fare rich in tomatoes, garlic, and onion. But don’t take my word for it, take the advice of Brad Sharp, Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine who runs the wine and beverage program at Austin’s Fonda San Miguel.

Sharp’s selection for Texas Wine of the Month is the Duchman Family Winery Montepulciano, 2009.

“I’m already thinking of what to serve at Thanksgiving this time of year. There’s so much pressure to serve the right wine. Thankfully, this year it’s easy. By a long shot. The Duchman Montepulciano screams to me an example of a specific Italian grape with distinct Italian characteristics learning a new soil in Texas. The sour cherry, black cherry and orange peel notes on this dry, medium-bodied wine pair well with roasted lamb, pasta dishes, or even chipotle-roasted turkey,” says Sharp.

Duchman sources its Montepulciano from The Reddy Vineyards in the High Plains AVA, where many Texas grapes are grown. Sharp is a particular fan of Duchman for its consistency in wine producing, and adds that the Montepulciano is the perfect Holiday wine. “This particular wine displays such potential, I say Drink this Now!” Sharps work at Fonda San Miguel has earned the restaurant a coveted Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the first time in its 35-year history. He’ll be showing off his wine knowledge and pairing expertise at an upcoming wine pairing dinner featuring the Spanish wines of Lerin Wines, which represents some of Spain’s most exclusive bodegas.  The dinner on November 2 will showcase a 5-course dinner including fried oysters, a duo of ceviche, steamed mussels with tomato chipotle sauces, roasted pork Veracruzano, and lamb chops with chile morita and roasted corn flan. Hungry now? For reservations call: 512-459-4121.

But in the mean time, swing by your area Spec’s, Central Market, or Whole Foods. As Sharp says, “This wine has such great potential that I say, drink this now!”

Winery: Duchman Family Winery

Price: ~$15

Availability: Spec’s, Whole Foods Market, Central Market

 

 

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Monday, May 16, 2011

Texas Wine of the Month: Brennan Vineyards Viognier, 2009

We’ve already established that Vioginer is one of the white grapes that thrives in Texas soils. For a quick refresher, Viognier (pronounced Vee-on-yay), is a French Rhone Valley grape known for its floral and fruity aromas. From the nose, the Viognier is often perceived as a sweet wine, but is actually fairly dry—great for pairing with food.

In previous months, we’ve selected Viogniers from McPherson Cellars and Alamosa Wine Cellars, both excellent representations of how well this grape does in Texas. This month we’ve selected another Viognier with the help of sommelier Hunter Hammett, CSW of the Pyramid Restaurant & Bar at The Fairmont Dallas. Having earned his credentials as a Certified Sommelier, Hammett worked as floor sommelier for both the Mansion at Turtle Creek and Fearing’s, Ritz-Carlton before arriving at the Fairmont Dallas as Wine Director. His passion for wine and spirits won him recognition from Wine Spectator with an Award of Excellence for his wine program in 2010.

In addition to the many wine selections around the world Hammett has lately become a great fan of Texas wines.  “Texas wine quality has improved tremendously in the last 10 years,” says Hammett. “It’s been a great pleasure for me as a native Texan to introduce restaurant guests not only to talented Texas wine producers but also to varietals that are extremely food-friendly and greatly underrated.”

One such producer is Brennan Vineyards in Comanche, Texas whose 2009 Viognier has turned heads as one of the best in the state. “Owner Pat Brennan is a devoted artisan who is committed to producing award-winning wines,” says Hammett. “This wine has ripe peach, apricot, and honeysuckle aromas and just enough acidity to keep it lively. I was introduced to his wines several years ago as a judge for The Dallas Morning News and the Grapevine International Wine Competitions and I’ve been a fan ever since.”

For this reason, this month’s wine of the month is Brennan Vineyards Viognier, 2009. Since 2005, the Viognier has been Brennan Vineyards’ signature wine winning Best Texas White Wine in Lone Star International Wine Competitions and a Double Gold Medal at the Houston Rodeo with previous vintages. The 2009 Viognier won Gold Medals in the 2010 Indy International, the 2011 San Francisco Chronicle and the 2011 Dallas Morning News Wine Competitions.

For just under $20, this beautiful white wine is perfect for summer and would make the perfect housewarming gift for a dinner party. (You could even stack our three Wine of the Month Viognier selections against each other to see which one you prefer.) Though you can order directly from the winery website , you can also find the Brennan Viognier at a few specialty wine merchants as well as at Spec’s. (And of course, you can find this on the Pyramid Restaurant & Bar wine list.)

For Hammett, this particular Viognier is an example of the high quality of Texas wines being produced despite such harsh weather conditions throughout the year. “The erratic Texas climate is a constant challenge for winemakers who are producing quality-driven wines,” says Hammett. “But a wine like this is a testament to the dedicated efforts of such artisan wine producers committed to providing the best fruit from the lone star state.”

Winery: Brennan Vineyards, Viognier 2009

Price: ~$20

Availability: Winery, Spec’s, select wine merchants

- Jessica Dupuy

 

 

 

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Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Texas Wine of the Month: Sandstone Cellars VII 2009

Courtesy of the alcoholian.com

Mason, Texas. It’s not just known for topaz digging, deer hunting, or its claim be the home of authentic Cooper’s Barbecue—as opposed to the famed smoke pit in Llano. But we’re not discussing barbecue today. Instead, we’d like to note that Mason has fast gained recognition for its small little wine tasting room off the town square—the home of Sandstone Cellars Winery.

Though much of the Hill Country is made up of limestone and granite outcroppings, the Mason area is known for its sandstone deposits, which makes for a sandy soil rich in iron and minerals that according to Sandstone Cellars winemaker, Don Pullum, make for aromatic wines. Something celebrated Texas sommelier Drew Hendricks of Pappas Bros. restaurant in Houston noted when introduced to Sandstone Cellars wines earlier this year. Hendricks is not only the Corporate Wine Director and Director of Education for Pappas, but sits on the board of the Guild of Sommeliers and is the co-founder of the annual TexSom Beverage Conference in Dallas. Both he and Master Sommelier, James Tidwell of the Four Seasons Las Colinas began the conference as a forum for Texas sommeliers to continue their education and challenge their palates in annual blind tasting competitions.

“This conference has been a great way for Texas sommeliers to get to know each other and sharpen their knowledge of wine,” says Hendricks. “There’s always something new to be learned in wine.”

Learning about Sandstone Cellars’ portfolio of wines, was certainly an example to Hendricks about the many notable selections of Texas wine, which is why this month’s Texas Wine of the Month comes from this lonely little winery out in Mason: The Sandstone Cellars VII, Touriga Nacional, 2009.

This relatively low profile Portuguese red grape is a varietal worth watching as Texas grape growers continue to explore the best grapes for the state, and thereby better defining the Texas terroir. Known for its high tannins and concentrated black fruit flavors, touriga is what Pullum would consider an excellent blending grape for its ability to add spice, complexity, and structure to a wine.

“Touriga grows so well here and I’m a big believer in using it as a blending grape,” says Pullum, who supplies Sandstone with grapes from his own Akashic Vineyards. “The 2009 touriga turned out to be so well balanced that we thought it could stand on its own as a straight wine.”

In Hendricks’ opinion, Pullum was spot on. “The structure is just perfect,” says Hendricks. “I love that the Sandstone wines are a perfect balance between laboratory wines and super earthy Burgundy-style wines. Their touriga is a great example of a good artisanal wine. Sandstone is just doing a fantastic job.” And he’s not the only one to think so, at a dinner pairing on Tuesday evening, Hendricks poured this wine for Ray Isle, Executive Wine Editor of Food and Wine Magazine who later tweeted: @islewine: Mighty excellent ’96 J Prieur Montrachet tonight in the company of equally excellent @drewhendricksms. Sandstone Touriga from TX cool, too.

Hendricks notes flavors of deep dark cherry, mint, plumb, and a mushroom, earthy quality to the wine. “For me, this wine would be braised meat heaven,” says Hendricks. “Pair it with short ribs or a lamb shank, and you’re in for a great meal.”

At $30 a bottle, the Sandstone Cellars VII is a great value for what you’re getting. While it’s not readily available at retail outlets throughout the state it is easy to order directly from the winery. It’s also on the wine list at Fearing’s and The Pyramid in Dallas, and as you may have guessed, Pappas Bros. Steakhouses in Dallas and Houston.

 

- Jessica Dupuy

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Texas Wine of the Month: Becker Vineyards Muscat Canelli Amabile, 2008

Ever tried Muscat? Not to be confused with ‘muskrat,’ the semi-aquatic rodent native to North America, Muscat is a family of grape varietals that is said to be one of the oldest domesticated grapes in existence. Ranging in every color from white to deep crimson, the Muscat wines are often lumped into the dessert wine category, but many Muscat varieties are actually developed as standard table wines ranging in taste from dry to sweet. You may have seen this grape associated with other names including Moscato or Muscatel, and you’ve likely tasted it in sweeter Italian sparkling wines and even in the rare Hungarian Tokaji.

In recent years, a number of Texas wineries have tested different Muscat varieties with great success including the Orange Muscat (which is well represented by Alamosa Wine Cellars and Texas Hills Winery) and Muscat Canelli (which has done well for Messina Hof  Winery in Bryan.)

This month, our Texas Wine of the Month is the Becker Vineyards Muscat Canelli Amabile, 2008. This selection comes with the help of Joey Sholdra, General Manager and Wine Steward of Bin 555 Restaurant and Wine Bar in San Antonio. (This casual-yet-chic bistro is part of the family of restaurants from Chef Jason Dady including The Lodge Restaurant of Castle Hills, Tre Trattoria, Two Bros BBQ Marketplace, and Restaurant Insignia.) Sholdra heralds a particular Muscat variety this month for its versatility with food.

“This wine is a great patio sipper,” says Sholdra. “It’s lively, floral, and sweet with a friendly alcohol level (12.8%) so it doesn’t weigh you down.  There’s a great balance between the residual sugars and a food-friendly level of acidity.”

Crisp and full-flavored, this white wine is an excellent example of Becker Vineyards’ ability to produce balanced, reasonably-priced food wines as it pairs beautifully with spicy Thai and Mexican dishes as well as with desserts—Bin 555 recently paired it with a Texas peach panna cotta served with house-brandied peaches, and pecan nougat. But it also has the strength to stand alone as a perfect wine to sip before or after dinner.

At about $10 a bottle, the Becker Muscat Canelli Amabile has aromas of apricot, orange, and honeysuckle. “Texas is doing a good job of planting appropriate grapes for the region and bringing in talented wine makers to improve the quality of wines made here,” says Sholdra. “Becker’s Muscat is a perfect example of the progress Texas is making towards becoming a viable wine making region.”

Winery: Becker Vineyards

Retail Price: $9.95

Availability: Most Texas grocers including H-E-B, as well as wine and liquor retailers such as Twin Liquors and Spec’s.

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Friday, July 16, 2010

Texas Wine of the Month: Dry Comal Creek Vineyards, Black Spanish Reserve, 2008

Among the few varietals Texas winemakers are heralding as the star grapes of Texas, the Tempranillo and the Viognier are at the top of the list. And while these grapes certainly do well in the Lone Star state, their Spanish and French origins don’t exactly make them native selections. There is, however, a native Texas grape that some winemakers have used with great success. It’s called the Black Spanish grape.

And while it has almost identical counterparts in France named Lenoir and Jacques, this hearty varietal, known for its dark black fruit, originates in Texas. (It was introduced to the Europeans in the 1850s.) In addition to its unique red juice qualities (it actually bleeds red juice when crushed, while most other red grapes bleed white juice), the Black Spanish grape is miraculously resistant to Pierce’s Disease, a bacterial pathogen that kills grape vines, and phylloxera, a small insect that feeds on vines—both of which are commonly found in Texas.

Though you won’t find many straight Black Spanish wines on the market in Texas, you will find some wineries using the grapes for blending, including Messina Hof in Bryan for their reserve port and Chisolm Trail Winery, near Fredericksburg, for their Diablo red wine, which is 70% Syrah and 30% Lenoir (Black Spanish). But we did want to introduce a winery that is producing a 100% Black Spanish wine.

At the suggestion of Sommelier Paul Botamer of the esteemed Fearing’s restaurant in Dallas, this month’s Texas Wine of the Month is the Dry Comal Creek Vineyards Black Spanish Reserve, 2008.

“I recently popped a bottle of this Black Spanish for the first time and it was just wonderful,” says Botamer. “It is a great full-bodied red with a little bit of spice and a nice, long finish. It’s great for the kind of food we serve at Fearing’s.”

Dry Comal Creek is a little winery near New Braunfels owned by Franklin and Bonnie Houser who have been producing Texas wine since 1998. Though they had originally planted other grapes for their Hill Country vineyard, Pierce’s Disease and flooding in 1998 and 2002 forced the Houser’s to find a grape that would withstand the sometimes harsh Texas climate. The answer for them, the Black Spanish Grape.

Describing this grape isn’t easy, as it’s not like any other red wine you’ve ever tasted. In fact, Houser often tells people to simply put everything you know about wine aside and “expect the unexpected.” In the glass, this jammy wine is dark ruby in color and tastes about as crimson as it looks. This is no light summer Pinot Noir for sipping on the patio. This is a bold wine that would be great with wild game or the quintessential Texas steak. At the same time, it’s smooth and light on tannin—meaning you won’t get that “kitten tongue” feel after you’ve sipped it. For more from Houser on the Black Spanish grape in Texas, check out this Go Texan Wine Cast with Tanji Patton.

The best place to find the Dry Comal Creek Black Spanish is, of course, at the winery itself. But if you can’t get down to New Braunfels, you can find it at specialty wine stores around Texas i.e. Central Market in Austin and A Taste of Texas Wines in San Antonio. For a little added help, the Housers have been kind enough to put a listing of their wine retailers on their website.

For the best presentation, Houser suggests giving this wine time to breathe. In fact it’s one of the few wines that actually gets better the longer it’s been opened. If you have time, open it and let it sit for about 24 hours before serving. (Yes, you read that correctly—24 hours.) If you don’t have that much time, try decanting it at least twice before serving. This will really open up the flavor of the wine and give you the best introduction to this unusual native Texas grape.

Winery: Dry Comal Creek

Retail Price:  ~$30

Availability: Specialty wine and liquor retailers. Click here for a listing of retailers.

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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Texas Wine of the Month: Alamosa Wine Cellars, Viognier, 2008

Ever been to Bend, Texas? Located in the northern part of the Texas Hill Country, it’s considered part of the Way Out Wineries Wine Trail and is certainly around a bend or two of ranch and county roads. Bend is where you’ll find Alamosa Wine Cellars, home to a dynamic winemaking couple, Jim and Karen Johnson, some of the state’s most provocative Rhone-style wines, and the winery from which this month’s Wine of the Month derives.

With the help of San Antonio’s Steven Kreuger, resort sommelier for the Westin La Cantera Resort, we’ve found yet another Texas Viognier that deserves a special nod. As you may remember, this aromatic and fruity French grape has made quite a showing throughout the state with many winemakers and enthusiasts alike calling it one of the star grapes of Texas. Kreuger couldn’t agree more.

He hosts a daily Texas wine tasting at the Steinheimer’s bar at the resort with two-ounce pours of three different wines—and he always starts with a Viognier. One of his favorites, and this month’s Texas Wine of the Month: Alamosa Wine Cellars, Viognier, 2008.

This single-vineyard Viognier comes from the Texas High Valley Block of the Cherokee Creek Vineyard, managed by Hill Country grape-growing guru, Mike McHenry. (Most of McHenry’s grapes go to the Johnsons at Alamosa including Viognier, Orange Muscat and a few others.) According to Kreuger, this particular Viognier has apricot and melon aromatics that are fairly typical of this varietal, but also an added minerality from the limestone and granite topography of the upper Hill Country region.

“This wine is a pure expression of the ‘Top of the Hill Country,’” says Kreuger. “It’s a world class Viognier, that I am very comfortable serving alongside Viogniers from the Rhone region in France. The Alamosa wine is as good, if not better, than all but the most rare and exalted French counterparts.”

Available at popular Texas wine retailers Twin Liquors and Spec’s, the 2008 Viognier retails for about $18 and pairs well with rich meats such as duck, but also makes a great summer sipping wine with fresh goat cheese or smoked gouda. The Alamosa Viognier in particular has a nice acidity to it that makes it a great food wine, without a too “buttery,” or too sweet feel.

Of course, the best place to enjoy the Alamosa Viognier is at the vineyard itself. If you have occasion to visit the Way Out Winery Trail, make a stop at Alamosa Wine Cellars and be sure to taste the Orange Muscat, the signature El Guapo Tempranillo, and Kreuger’s other favorite, the Palette, a true Rhone-style Syrah blend.

“I love the Palette because it is a Texas wine through and through,” says Krueger. “It is not all fruit and flash like a California counterpart, and it is not like the lush, monstrous Shiraz from Australia.  If it is similar to anything else in the world it is the Southern Rhone blend it is modeled after Chateauneuf du Pape.  It’s not the polished new international style that could have come from anywhere, either, it is the old-fashioned, rustic, soulful style that most assuredly came from one specific place, and even though it is like Chateauneuf du Pape, the one place that this wine is from is TEXAS.”

I can say that the Palette is a close favorite for me as well. It’s a big wine—not for sissies—and goes well with wild game such as smoked venison or elk tenderloin. The flavors are dark, earthy, and complex with cranberry, raspberry, and even some mushroom and truffle tones. Give this one a try!

Winery: Alamosa Wine Cellars

Retail Price:  ~$18

Availability: Specialty wine and liquor retailers such as Twin Liquors and Spec’s

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Monday, February 15, 2010

Texas Wine of the Month: McPherson Cellars Viognier, 2008

New to the Eat My Words blog, we’re introducing bi-monthly posts devoted to an increasingly popular branch of Texas agriculture and tourism: Texas Wine.

Each month we’ll bring you interesting topics, travel tips, and event coverage on the Texas wine industry as well as a “Wine of the Month” selection guided by some of the state’s top sommeliers.

This month’s “Texas Wine of the Month” was selected with a little help from one of the state’s few Master Sommeliers, Guy Stout. His work with Glazer’s wine and spirits distributing company throughout the past 15 years paired with his exceptional palate  has made Stout a trusted name in wine circles across the state.

Though there are many Texas wines Stout enjoys, the 2008 McPherson Cellars Viognier ranks among his favorite. The Viognier grape is one that McPherson Cellars’ winemaker Kim McPherson has cultivated in the High Plains of Texas, near Lubbock, for years and it has fast become one of the state’s signature varietals.

Originally from the Rhone valley of France, Viognier, pronounced ‘vee-OH-nyay’, not “voy-guh-nyAIR,’ is known for its floral aroma and often citrus and tropical-fruit flavor. But despite its sweet smell, most Viogniers are actually dryer wines, meaning they lack the cloying sugars often found in sweeter Rieslings and Muscats. Viognier wines are similar in color to Chardonnays although a little lighter and offer a less “buttery” taste than Chardonnays that have been aged in oak.

“This is one of the grapes that Texas does as well as any area of the United States,” says Stout. “McPherson’s Viognier has a rich citrus orange peel quality and a light touch of oak aging, without being too strong. This wine goes better with food than many Chardonnays and has a much less oak-y taste. There is a slight rocky mineral texture on the palate, with medium body and round, rich stone fruits as well as a citrus-y mid-palate with a moderate length to the  finish.”

In short, this wine is great to serve with friends who like white wine, but have differing tastes. Some people prefer Chardonnay; others prefer Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. This Viognier should make everyone happy. It pairs well with anything from pasta with garlic, herbs, and olives to King Ranch chicken.

Winery: McPherson Cellars Winery

Retail Price: $12.99-$14.99

Availability: Most Texas grocers including H-E-B, as well as wine and liquor retailers such as Twin Liquors and Spec’s.

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