The Texas Terroir Lineup at TexSom

For anyone wondering how Texas wines fare among experts in the wine industry, the proof was in this year’s 2012 TexSom conference. In it’s eighth year, TexSom—short for Texas Sommelier’s Conference—reserved one of their nine wine sessions for an hour completely devoted to Texas Terroir.

A few hundred sommeliers and industry retail and restaurant professionals were in the room as part of the sold out two-day conference, which was held at the Four Seasons Resort and Club Las Colinas outside of Dallas. The session was led by the Guy Stout, a Master Sommelier who manages the wine education program at Glazer’s, and Christy Canterbury, a Master of Wine, wine educator and writer, and native Texan who helped judge the 2012 Dallas Morning News/TEXSOM International Wine Competition earlier this year.

The two opened with a few comments on the state of the Texas industry showing numbers on just how big Texas wine has become. In 2001, there were only 46 wineries producing only about 600,000 cases of wine. By 2009, there were more than 220 wineries producing more than 1.2 million cases. And the growth has only increased in more recent years.

Among the top points Stout drove home was the fact that Texas winemakers have finally honed in on warm climate grapes to produce the best wines within the state. Among the lineup included many examples of these varietals such as Italian Vermentino, Viognier from the Rhone Valley of France, and Touriga Nacional from Portugal.

Of the eight wines showcased for the tasting, all were “single vineyard” wines, meaning each one was made from grapes that came from a specific Texas vineyard.

“We really wanted to show the terroir of Texas for this seminar,” says Drew Hendricks, TexSom co-founder and director of wine and beverage education for Pappas Restaurants. “It is possible to make wine that has a sense of place in Texas and these wines show that.”

Below is the list of Texas wines tasted, with a comment or two from Stout and other audience members in between…

 2010 Duchman Family Vineyards Vermentino (Bingham Family Vineyards)

“The typicity of this wine is outstanding,” said Stout. “It tastes exactly like Vermentino should taste.

2010 McPherson Cellars Reserve Roussanne (Bingham Family Vineyards)

“This shows what we can do with Rhone varieties,” said Stout. “McPherson is one of the greatest winemakers in the state of Texas and this wine is an example of why.”

“This wine is outstanding,” added Marcy Jimenez of Houston Wine Merchant. “It’s brilliant and so exciting that this is happening here in Texas.”

2010 CapRock Winery Viognier (Reddy Vineyards)

“This wine tastes like the variety should taste,” said Canterbury. “It’s floral with apricots and orange peel. It’s beautiful.”

 2009 Sandstone Cellars VII (Mason County)

“This wine has iron and spice like you would find with Touriga,” says Canterbury, but it is also very savory. It’s not fruit forward, but restrained and European in style.”

“Don Pullum is the winemaker for Sandstone and I’d say he’s one of the best winemakers in the state and this Touriga blend is an example of the great job he’s doing,” added food and wine journalist Andrew Chalk of D Magazine.

2009 Pedernales Cellars Kuhlken Vineyards Reserve Blend

“Pedernales Cellars aged this wine in both American and French oak. It’s a lovely wine that will definitely hold for a while if you age it,” said Stout. “The blend has Tempranillo and Merlot and shows a more European footprint than a lot of Californian wines.”

2010 Fairhaven Vineyards Chambourcin

“We really wanted to show this wine because it’s from someone who really believes in American hybrid grapes,” said Stout about the red Chamburcin grape, which is a French-American hybrid between that has shown to be resistant to fungal diseases . “R.L. Winters hangs his hat on these varieties and this is one of the best representations he has of why.”

2010 Vineyard at Florence “Veritas” Cabernet Sauvignon

“This isn’t a warm variety grape, but this wine shows really well with black currant, eucalyptus and a little sweet vanilla from the oak,” said Canterbury. “It’s really nice.”

2010 Haak Vineyards “Madeira” Blanc du Bois

“I think Blanc du Bois is one of the most exciting white wine varieties in Texas,” said Stout. “It’s an American hybrid that took five generations to get correct, but Raymond Haak at Haak Vineyards is doing it right. It has orange blossom and orange water on the nose and palate. Beautiful.”

The two days of wine-filled education featured eight other seminars including some particularly eye-opening (and delicious) sessions on Riesling, Cabernet Franc and perhaps my favorite, Oregon wines. TexSom ended Monday evening with a festive Grand Tasting featuring more than 150 wines from all over the world. And of course, Texas was there to represent with wines from CapRock Winery, Duchman Family Winery, Inwood Estates, Pedernales Cellars, and Sandstone Cellars which brought along an intriguing Tempranillo from a new Mason County Vineyard, Pontotoc Vineyard.

Winners of the Texas Best Sommelier competition at TexSom, David Keck (2nd place), Ryan Tedder (1st place), Steve Murphey (3rd place)

The highlight of the evening was the announcement of Texas’ Best Sommelier, Ryan Tedder of FT33 Restaurant in Dallas. Tedder was one of 23 competitors in the annual Texas Best Sommelier competition which is run behind-the-scenes at TexSom and proctored by a number of Master Sommeliers from the Court of Master Sommeliers. An integral part of TexSom, the competition was designed to help give aspiring sommeliers scholarship funding to help further their wine studies. (Tedder received $2,500 for his top honor.)

David Keck of Uchi Houston was the second runner up and Steve Murphey of Mid-Stage Wine & Liquor in Plano received third place. Additionally, the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, California will offer scholarships to all three to placers.

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Andrew Chalk, CapRock Winery, Christy Canterbury, David Keck, Drew Hendricks, Duchman Family Winery, Fairhaven Vineyards, Guy Stout, Inwood Estates, Jessica Dupuy, Marcy Jimenez, McPherson Cellars, Pedernales Cellars, Ryan Tedder, sandstone cellars, Steve Murphey, TexSom, The Vineyard ar Florence

2010 Fairhaven Vineyards Chambourcin

You often hear about Texas wines in the Hill Country. You occasionally even hear a bit about how most of the grapes grown in Texas are actually in the High Plains near Lubbock. But you rarely hear about the other pockets of the state that produce wine. There’s the Bluebonnet Wine Trail near Brenham, the Munson Wine Trail near Forth Worth and there’s also a wine trail in The Piney Woods of East Texas, which is where this month’s wine of the month comes from.

Out near Hawkins—about 20 miles from Tyler—Fairhaven Vineyards has made a name for itself specializing in French-American and American hybrid grapes for wine. (Without getting too geeky, there are well known European native grapes “vitis vinifera” such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and American native grapes “vitis labrusca,” such as Concord or Norton.)

Fairhaven’s owner and winemaker R.L. Winters emphasizes a focus on native American grapes for his wines. Almost all of the grapes used for his wines are sourced directly from almost a dozen acres of his own vineyard and are produced to make European styles of wine. Fairhaven also propagates and sells a variety of root stocks for individuals looking to start their own vineyard along with a complete vineyards installation service to help get things started.

Since the winery opened in 2004, it has received numerous awards for its heritage grapes including the 2009 Lomanto, the first American Hybrid grape to wine an international award since 1873, and the  2010 Chambourcin, which won a gold medal in the 2011 Lone Star International Competition and is this month’s Texas Wine of the Month.

The Chambourcin grape is a French-American hybrid that Winters has found does unbelievably well in warm climates such as Texas and has a high resistance to fungal disease. And though you won’t find a lot of it in Texas, you can find it throughout the Mid-Atlantic region of the U.S. in states such as New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania and North Carolina.

Drew Hendricks, MS

This month’s wine of the month Comes from one of Texas’s seven Master Sommeliers, Drew Hendricks, the director of wine and beverage education for Pappas Restaurants. Hendricks’ career on both the distribution and service side of wine demenotrates not only his extensive knowledge of the world of wine, but his passion for sharing it with other people. Perhaps his greatest effort in sharing wine with others is through the 9th Annual Texas Sommeliers Conference (TEXSOM), which Hendricks co-founded in 2005 with fellow Master Sommelier James Tidwell of the Four Seasons Los Colinas.

“I really like what Fairhaven is doing with their wines,” says Hendricks who carries this wine at both Pappas Bros Steakhouses in Dallas and Houston. “This Chambourcin is juicy, jammy and delicious. It shows that sometimes it pays to pay attention to these [grape] varieties that are outside the norm.”

The wine also has racy acidity and a little tartness as well. It’s fruity, but has a great earthiness to it as well, which is evidence of Winters’ drive towards a European style of wine. This is a wonderful food wine that would be fantastic with a juicy ribeye—perhaps why Pappas has it on their wine list—but it would also be delicious with a couple nibbles of dark chocolate after dinner.

Attendees to TEXSOM will likely have a chance to sample the Chambourcin during one the nine conference seminars. It’s one devoted strictly to wines from single vineyards throughout Texas and will be led by Texas native and wine expert Christy Canterbury and Houston-based Master Sommelier Guy Stout. Hendricks helped select the wines for this particular seminar and the Chambourcin was high on his list.

Though the final list NOT official, some of the candidates include:

2009 Sandstone Cellars VII - A rich, fruity and medium-bodied Portuguese-inspired red wine made from Touriga Naciaonal grown exclusively in Mason, TX.

2010 McPherson Cellars Roussane Reserve – A previous Texas wine of the Month that has citrus, ripe peach and tropical fruit on the nose with a balanced, dry finish on the palate.

2011 Duchman Family Vineyards Vermentino – An Italian varietal and perhaps the best version this winery has released to date—though previous vintages have been stellar as well—with notes of pear and lemon and crisp, dry finish.

2010 Texas Hills Vineyard Cabernet Franc – A smooth red with blackberries and a hint of spice made from a classic French Bordeaux and Loire varietal.

2009 Pedernales Cellars Kuhlken Family Reserve (red wine blend) – A full-bodied red made primarily from Tempranillo and Merlot.

And while Hendricks is excited to see how well received this single-vineyard Texas wines are received, he’s also excited to see the panels on Cabernet Franc as well as the special vertical tasting of Leonetti Cellars.

While the much anticipated TEXSOM is sold out, and sure to be a wine-filled fiesta of oenophiles and wine amateurs alike, it’s growth in the national sphere of wine professionals is evidence to the entire country of just how serious Texans are about their wine.

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Chambourcin 2010, Drew Hendricks, Duchman Family Vineyards, Fairhaven Vineyards, Jessica Dupuy, McPherson Cellars, Pedernales Cellars, sandstone cellars, Texas Hills Vineyard, TexSom

When it comes to wine experts in the state of Texas, there are a number of reputable individuals you could look to throughout the state. From restaurant sommeliers, wine buyers and importers and even wine journalists, if you’re looking for an answer to a question on wine, you can certainly find a reliable source to talk to. But when it comes to an expert for all experts; one who has not only studied wine for the better part of 50 years, but has also sold it, imported it, taught it and even grows his own grapes in the Hill Country, there’s only one person who fits the bill. His name is Guy Stout. And if you ever have the chance to share a bottle of wine with this affable teddy bear of a Texan, you’ll come away with a much better understanding about wine, a clearer picture on how to taste it, and probably a few good tall tales to boot.

Guy is one of only 160 Master Sommelier (MS) in the world. (The first of only six in the state of Texas.) He is also a Certified Wine Educator (CWE), Certified Spirits Specialist (CSS) and on the Executive Board of Directors of the Society of Wine Educators. He is a member of the Texas Sommelier Association.

Originally from Dallas, Stout grew up in the restaurant business, working in his family’s restaurant, the Steak Pit as a bus boy and moving up the ranks both in the kitchen and in the front of the house at this restaurant and eventually through a number of high end steak restaurants throughout Dallas. He eventually graduated from the Hilton Hotel School at the University of Houston and

And is currently the Corporate Director of Beverage Education for The Glazer’s Family of Companies, covering 12 states, which basically means he supports the “Glazer University” program to help educate the company’s sales and management teams as well as consulting on client wine lists for hotels, bars and restaurants. It requires him to travel extensively to wine regions all over the world to see and taste the latest trends and vintages in wine.

When it comes to Texas Wine, Guy integrally involved. He’s an active wine judge for a variety of national competitions; including the L.A. County Fair, Dallas Morning News, Jefferson Cup, Texas Open and the Houston Rodeo Wine Competition and is a member of the Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association (TWGGA). He was a crucial getting the annual Texas Sommelier’s Conference (TEXSOM) off the ground seven years ago. But he’s also a grape grower himself.

I recently had a chance to chat with him about his experience with wine in Texas, how the perception of wine has changed in the state over the years, and his real opinions about where Texas wine is going.

TM: When did you first become interested in wine, seriously?

STOUT: Well, I started in restaurants as a bus boy, dish washer, prep cook, on the line, and then moved to front of house. I was once a bus boy at a really nice Dallas steak restaurant and one of my duties was to stock the wine cellar. I thought it was fascinating. I’d see all of these French wooden boxes of wine with beautiful labels burned into the crates. When I was growing up, every kid had a wood burning kit. And I used to love mine. But I’d never seen anything as intricate or as artistic as the labels on these French crates. That’s the first time I can remember being captivated by what wine was. I knew whatever was inside those boxed had been given great care. And I wanted to know more.

In the mid 70s, there was really no formal process or education foundation anywhere in the country at that time. I really just had to read books and talk to different sommeliers at the restaurants I worked at. I worked at Marty’s Wine shop in Dallas for a while and that was a real eye opener for me. They had super fine wines and spirits and all of these exotic beers. And I tried to take advantage of everything I could learn there.

TM: Once you learned of the different wine certification programs through the Court of Master Sommeliers and the Society of Wine Educators, what made you want to go for your Master Sommelier certification (which can take years to achieve) and your Certified Wine Educator certification?

STOUT: Since I’d pretty much learned everything on my own, I was eager to be a part of an organization that had some structure to wine education and service. I found that there’s really an incredible energy shared between this group of wine lovers and wine geeks. It’s fun to have a connection with these people all over the world.

It’s given me the confidence to know that I can stand toe to toe with just about any other wine enthusiast out there. It’s also made me want to help others who are interested in knowing more about wine.

The key to all of this is to know that wine knowledge does not equal wine snobbery. It’s not about being a wine snob, it’s about being knowledgable about wine. It’s diametrically opposed to snobbery.

What I like about the Court of Master Sommeliers is that they teach humility. Your sole purpose as a sommelier is to guide others in the wines they want to try. We want sommeliers who are bright and know what they’re talking about, but who are also humble and approachable about wine. We don’t have room for snobs.

TM: As a student and educator of wine, what are a few things you wish people understood better about wine, or appreciated more about wine?

STOUT: I think if people want to know more about wine, they should start with the fundamentals. They should study the basic grapes and know the regions they come from. Then build from there. You don’t have to know everything immediately. But if you have this as a foundation, you’ll learn bits and pieces as you try more wine.

If you’re really serious about knowing more about wine, then I would encourage you to take the Introductory Sommelier Course http://www.mastersommeliers.org/Pages.aspx/Courses-Schedules-Overview that’s offered every year in Dallas before the Texas Sommelier’s Conference http://texsom.com/ . You do have to take an exam at the end of it, but in a couple of days, you learn about the whole world of wine and you get to learn how to taste wine and calibrate your palate for how to decipher different things about wine.

I teach the Dallas course each year and it used to be just trade people that took this course, but I’m seeing more and more consumers coming in just to learn more about wine. I even think it’s a good idea to bring your spouse. Have them learn what you’re learning and then you can both enjoy talking about wine as a couple wherever you go. My wife did it a few years ago and she did really well. Now we have something to discuss forever.

TM: Why did you come to decide to plant your own vineyard and what grapes did you plant?

STOUT: I’ve always wanted to have my own vineyard, who doesn’t? We planted Syrah in Blanco in 1999 and 2000. I love Syrah and it’s a good grape for the warm climate we have here. This year, we added Tempranillo. I don’t make my own wine. I tried for a couple of years, but it wasn’t good and I decided to just let the professionals do it. For a while I sold my grapes to Mandola Winery and later to Duchman Family Winery. But now I sell everything to William Chris winery in Hye. We have about 4.5 acres planted and I pretty much manage the vineyards. We have someone there full time who does basic maintenance, but I handle the big stuff like pruning, harvesting, spraying.

Now that I’m a grape grower and know all that goes in to producing good grapes for wine, I’m absolutely shocked that anyone can produce a great bottle of wine for under $10 a bottle. But it’s being done more and more. The value of wines these days is just amazing.

TM: In your professional opinion how is Texas wine doing these days?

STOUT: Well, there’s a lot of excellent wine being made in Texas today. And there are also some wines that are not so fantastic. But I will say it’s much better now than it has ever been. The future is very bright for Texas wine.

The only way it will continue to improve is to use warm climate grapes. I’ve been to Italy, France, Spain a hundred times over. I’ve seen what works there and we have a very similar climate and soil. The grapes to pay attention to are Tempranillo, Viognier, Muscato, Syrah, Albarino. There’s a lot of potential and we’re just now tapping into it.

I will say that I don’t think we’ll be making great Pinot Noirs in Texas. They just don’t work with hot, dry climates. God bless whoever tries, but I’m going to stick with warm climate grapes.

TM: What advice to you have for people who are really looking for a good wine when dining out but are glazed over by the wine list?

STOUT: I think people shouldn’t be afraid to really engage the sommelier or wine steward. Give them a few examples of what you do like and let them guide you. If it’s a good sommelier, they won’t make you feel uncomfortable or patronize you. They’ll work with you and hopefully expose you to something great that you’ve never had before.

Also, you shouldn’t be afraid to talk price. If you have a budget in mind, say what it is. Sommeliers are tasked with putting great wines on their list at all prices. They’ll probably be excited to direct you to the wines they’ve chosen within your price range whether that’s low or high.

TM: What’s favorite wine region to visit?

STOUT: Well, that’s just an impossible question. I like so many. Bordeaux is one of my favorites. I love Tuscany. And then there’s California. Santa Barbara, Paso Robles are great, but I probably spend more time in Sonoma and Napa. I also love the Willammette Valley in Oregon. To pick one region of the world. That’s crazy; there’s just so much worth visiting.

TM: What wine would you want to drink for your last meal?

STOUT: Well, it would have to be a multi-course meal paired with different wines. I’d start with a Champagne and then maybe light aromatic white like Sancerre (France), Gruner Veltliner (Austria) or Albarino (Spain). Then, depending on how much time I had before I kicked the bucket, I’d do a lighter red like a Sangiovese (Italy) blend from Chianti or Chianti Classico. Or maybe a Rhone-style Grenache blend. Then, I’d finish with a big, bold, blustery wine like a Bordeaux, a Brunello di Montalcino, a Barossa Shiraz (Australia), or an Argentine Malbec. Finally, I’d have a Texas Hill Country peach pie with some Texas Orange Muscat from Texas Hills Vineyard.

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Guy Stout, Jessica Dupuy, TexSom, TWGGA

TEXSOM. Say it like it sounds. Tech-Somm. No, it’s not a new form of Texas cuisine, as in Tex-Mex. And no, it’s not a new style of Texas line dancing blended with the Samba. It stands for the Texas Sommelier Conference and if you’re in the wine industry, you’ve at least heard of it, if not become a regular attender.

TEXSOM 2011 was held just last week at the Four Seasons Hotel Resort and Club in Colinas following the Court of Master Sommeliers Level 1 Course and exam. It’s actually the only one of its kind in the country. Formed by Texas-based Master Sommeliers James Tidwell of the Four Seasons Las Colinas and Drew Hendricks of Pappas Bros., the conference is a central meeting place where sommeliers from across the nation (and globe) congregate to network, brush up on characteristics of specific grape varietals, regions, and basically taste a whole lot of wine. (In one day alone, I counted a total of 42 wines tasted. And just to be clear, no one with any common sense actually drinks the wine completely; you taste and spit, otherwise you’d be a stumbling fool.)

James Tidwell and Drew Hendricks

In its 8th year, the event, hosted by the not-for-profit organizations Texas Sommelier Association and the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas, has attracted more than 2,200 wine professionals from across the United States.

“Every year, the conference reflects greater diversity,” says Tidwell. “This year we featured an amazing vertical tasting with celebrated winemaker Serge Hochar, who traveled all the way from Lebanon and shared wines dating back to 1969. No other conference integrates all levels of the business and welcomes the public like this one does.”

In addition to the unparralleled experience of having Serge Hochar from Chateau de Musar–a rare occassion that brought a hush over a room full of sommeliers–TEXSOM hosted it’s annual competition to determine the Best Texas Sommelier of the Year, a key component that occurs in the background of the conference for a hand-picked 20 candidates from across the state. To participate, candidates must be a current resident of Texas and must not have passed the Court of Master Sommeliers’ Advanced Exam.

This year the distinction went to Bill Elsey, Director of Sales for D’Amore Wine Selections a wine distribution company owned by Duchman Family Winery.  Elsey outperformed his fellow Texas compatriots in an intense three-part examination involving service, blind tasting, and theory and proctored by a panel of Master Sommelier judges. (more…)

Tagged: Bill Elsey, Drew Hendricks, Duchman Family Winery, James Tidwell, TexSom

Fellow wine enthusiasts, how well do you know wine? Think you can tell the difference between a California Pinot Noir from one made in the Burgundy region of France? Are you able to list the major grapes of the Piedmont region in Italy? What wine is primarily associated with Hungary? Don’t worry, this isn’t a pop quiz. Rarely in life would you be expected to know this level of detail.

Unless, of course, you were a sommelier. And certainly if you were a Master Sommelier. But achieving a Master Sommelier status is no easy task. Before reaching this level, you have to pass the Introductory, Certified, and Advanced level exams from the Court of Master Sommeliers, the premier international examining organization for professionals in the wine service industry.

It’s no easy task. In fact, there are only 180 Master Sommeliers in the world and until two weeks ago, there were only four in the state of Texas: Guy Stout of Glazer’s Distributors; Drew Hendricks of Pappas Brothers in Houston; Barbara Werley of Pappas Brothers; and James Tidwell of the Four Seasons Las Colinas in Dallas.

As of July 31, Texas has welcomed two new Master Sommeliers to the table, Devon Broglie, the Specialty Coordinator for the Southwest Region of Whole Foods Market and Craig Collins, Regional Manager for Glazer’s Distributors. Both Broglie, 37, and Collins , 35, are from Austin.

The two joined 63 fellow wine professionals (by invitation only) in Las Vegas to take the three-part exam (Theory, Service, Tasting) for a Master Sommelier Diploma. Of the 63, only six passed, and two of those six were Broglie and Collins.

But getting to his point was no easy task for Broglie and Collins. Beginning in 2005, having already passed the Introductory level exam, the two committed to a rigorous study schedule every Monday morning, and often on weekends, to prepare for the Certified, Advanced, and Master levels. The Master level alone took them three years to pass. In 2009, they completed the Theory portion of the exam, which requires a mastery knowledge of wine origin, history, and production, but failed the Service and Tasting portions. In 2010, they returned only to nab the Service portion of the exam after having rigorously practiced restaurant service at Austin’s Paggi House in their spare time.

Craig Collins, Master Sommelier

“The tasting portion may be the most difficult because it boils down to not only a proper sensory analysis of wine but determining what your tasting through applying the theory you’ve learned,” says Collins. “Prepping for service was a big challenge as well, but it’s a really important part of being a sommelier because it’s about knowing how to convey a respect for the vineyards, the wine, and the hands that make it before pouring it in a patron’s glass.”

This year, they conquered the Tasting portion of the exam and gratefully received their hard-fought diploma.

“This was our third and final attempt to complete the exam. You only have three years to complete the Master level and if we didn’t pass, we would have had to start all over again,” says Broglie, who admits the Tasting part was the most challenging for him as well but that using a specific wine tasting grid helped him conquer this section. “It’s like learning music scales. You don’t have to use scales to play music, but it helps you understand the nuts and bolts of music better if you do. The same is true for the wine tasting grid, it helps you deconstruct the wine and, through deductive reasoning, determine what wine it is that you’re tasting.”

Three years to pass the tasting portion,” you ask. What’s so difficult about it? Here’s the break down of requirements: 6 wines; 3 red, 3 white. Sommeliers are required to analyze each individual wine based on sight, nose/smell, and taste to determine:

- The grape variety

- The country of origin

- The district and appellation of origin

- The vintage (year the wine grapes were harvested.)

Devon Broglie, Master Sommelier

It’s not exactly a multiple-choice, walk-in-the-park type of test. It requires a significant amount of familiarity with wine history as well as an extremely sensitive palate. Based on the tasting portion alone, it’s easy to see why there are only six Master Sommeliers in the state, and why Collins and Broglie deserve a Texas-sized pat on the back for their great accomplishment!

Collins and Broglie will join fellow Master Sommeliers Guy Stout, Drew Hendricks, and James Tidwell this weekend, August 13-15, for the 7th Annual Texas Sommelier (TEXSOM) Conference at the Four Seasons Resort and Club in Las Colinas near Dallas. The conference is a premier wine education symposium attracting leading wine professionals and connoisseurs from across the country.

“TEXSOM is an opportunity for beverage professionals in Texas to network with people from all parts of the industry and the country,” says James Tidwell, who along with Drew Hendricks co-founded TEXSOM. “It is also an opportunity to learn what is happening in the larger world of beverages; and, to show the dynamic culture of beverage service that we have in the state. Over the years, it has become a conference with national influence beyond its physical size.”

Prior to the conference, the Texas Master Sommeliers along with Melissa Monosoff, Serafin Alvarado, Larry Stone and Fred Dame will also administer the Level 1 Introductory course for the Court of Master Sommeliers and yours truly will have a front row seat as I try my hand, err palate, at the first stage of this thorough wine education endeavor. I’ll post details on the experience once I’ve completed the exam—Wish me luck!

Tagged: Barbara Werley, Court of Master Sommeliers, Craig Collins, Devon Broglie, Drew Hendricks, Guy Stout, James Tidwell, Jessica Dupuy, TexSom

This time of year, when the daily heat index hits triple digits and walking outside feels like getting punched in the face by a convection oven, I like to keep a chilled wine on hand at all times. It’s usually a rotation between three or four wines including a crisp German Riesling, the Vermentino from Duchman Family Vineyards, or the Rosé of Syrah fromMcPherson Cellars. Well ok, truth be told the McPherson Rosé is almost always in my fridge. It’s a refreshing showstopper wine that is delicious with hints of summer berries without being sweet; it’s beautiful in the glass with a deep strawberry color that makes an average blush wine blush; and it’s a steal at most large grocery and wine outlets for under $15. Oh, and it’s a Texas wine!

I love breaking this wine out when a friend stops by for an early evening chat over cheese and crackers—and somehow that seems to happen a lot now that I’ve started sharing this wine. (Note to self: keep a running supply of cheese and crackers on hand at all times.)

It never fails to impress. It’s a happy medium for even the most stubborn of wine drinkers; those who claim they only drink red wines regardless of what time of year it is, and those that swear by their buttery California Chardonnays or syrupy sweet White Zinfandels. Somehow Kim McPherson, owner and winemaker of McPherson Cellars, has managed to please everyone. (Note: He may have achieved this with wine, but don’t ask this fiery, outspoken, and often zaney character to go into politics just yet.)

And I’m not the only one who thinks so. Texas sommelier, Devon Broglie, who coordinates all wine, coffee, and a number of other specialty items for the Southwest Region of Whole Foods Market, is a fan too. Which is why this month’s Texas Wine of the Month isMcPherson Cellars Rosé of Syrah, 2009.

Having spent the past decade honing his palate with a stint in harvesting and wine production Bodegas Costers del Siurana in Spain, the distinction of having passed the Advanced Level Exam for the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2007 and as the winner of Texas’ Best Sommelier Competion for 2006 at the Texas Sommelier Conference, Broglie is passionate about wine. And he’s proud of where Texas wine is going, particularly with winemakers like Kim McPherson.

“What Kim McPherson doesn’t know about Texas grape growing and wine making isn’t worth knowing,” says Broglie. “Kim has a modest, clean cellar operation in an old Coca Cola plant in Lubbock and access to some of the best grapes and vineyards in the Texas High Plains.  His Rosé of Syrah has fresh, crunchy red fruit with cherry, strawberry, raspberry, Rosé petal and spice.  It is delish and crisp and perfect for the summer heat.”

You should also soon see McPherson’s latest Rosé of Grenache-Syrah 2010 release. “I got lucky in 2010 with a good supply of Grenache and used it for this Rosé,” says McPherson. “It turned out to be really good. Next year I may add cinsault to the blend, but either way, I’ll probably always make a rose each year, if only because I like drinking them so much!”

So before the dog days of summer run out—don’t worry, there’s no sign of that happening any time soon—do your best to stay cool, always be prepared for last-minute visitors to drop by, and by all means, keep a McPherson Cellars Rosé of Syrah (or Grenache-Syrah) in your refrigerator!

Winery: McPherson Cellars

Retail Price: ~$13

Availability: Most Texas grocery chains including HEB, Central Market, Whole Foods as well as Spec’s and Twin Liquors.

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Devon Broglie, Duchman Family Winery, Jessica Dupuy, Kim McPherson, McPherson Cellars, McPherson Cellars Rose of Syrah, TexSom, Whole Foods Market

Courtesy of the alcoholian.com

Mason, Texas. It’s not just known for topaz digging, deer hunting, or its claim be the home of authentic Cooper’s Barbecue—as opposed to the famed smoke pit in Llano. But we’re not discussing barbecue today. Instead, we’d like to note that Mason has fast gained recognition for its small little wine tasting room off the town square—the home of Sandstone Cellars Winery.

Though much of the Hill Country is made up of limestone and granite outcroppings, the Mason area is known for its sandstone deposits, which makes for a sandy soil rich in iron and minerals that according to Sandstone Cellars winemaker, Don Pullum, make for aromatic wines. Something celebrated Texas sommelier Drew Hendricks of Pappas Bros. restaurant in Houston noted when introduced to Sandstone Cellars wines earlier this year. Hendricks is not only the Corporate Wine Director and Director of Education for Pappas, but sits on the board of the Guild of Sommeliers and is the co-founder of the annual TexSom Beverage Conference in Dallas. Both he and Master Sommelier, James Tidwell of the Four Seasons Las Colinas began the conference as a forum for Texas sommeliers to continue their education and challenge their palates in annual blind tasting competitions.

“This conference has been a great way for Texas sommeliers to get to know each other and sharpen their knowledge of wine,” says Hendricks. “There’s always something new to be learned in wine.”

Learning about Sandstone Cellars’ portfolio of wines, was certainly an example to Hendricks about the many notable selections of Texas wine, which is why this month’s Texas Wine of the Month comes from this lonely little winery out in Mason: The Sandstone Cellars VII, Touriga Nacional, 2009.

This relatively low profile Portuguese red grape is a varietal worth watching as Texas grape growers continue to explore the best grapes for the state, and thereby better defining the Texas terroir. Known for its high tannins and concentrated black fruit flavors, touriga is what Pullum would consider an excellent blending grape for its ability to add spice, complexity, and structure to a wine.

“Touriga grows so well here and I’m a big believer in using it as a blending grape,” says Pullum, who supplies Sandstone with grapes from his own Akashic Vineyards. “The 2009 touriga turned out to be so well balanced that we thought it could stand on its own as a straight wine.”

In Hendricks’ opinion, Pullum was spot on. “The structure is just perfect,” says Hendricks. “I love that the Sandstone wines are a perfect balance between laboratory wines and super earthy Burgundy-style wines. Their touriga is a great example of a good artisanal wine. Sandstone is just doing a fantastic job.” And he’s not the only one to think so, at a dinner pairing on Tuesday evening, Hendricks poured this wine for Ray Isle, Executive Wine Editor of Food and Wine Magazine who later tweeted: @islewine: Mighty excellent ’96 J Prieur Montrachet tonight in the company of equally excellent @drewhendricksms. Sandstone Touriga from TX cool, too.

Hendricks notes flavors of deep dark cherry, mint, plumb, and a mushroom, earthy quality to the wine. “For me, this wine would be braised meat heaven,” says Hendricks. “Pair it with short ribs or a lamb shank, and you’re in for a great meal.”

At $30 a bottle, the Sandstone Cellars VII is a great value for what you’re getting. While it’s not readily available at retail outlets throughout the state it is easy to order directly from the winery. It’s also on the wine list at Fearing’s and The Pyramid in Dallas, and as you may have guessed, Pappas Bros. Steakhouses in Dallas and Houston.

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Don Pullum, Drew Hendricks, Jessica Dupuy, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Sandstone Cellars Winery, texas wine, Texas Wine of the Month, TexSom