Texas Monthly February 2013

Once a year, I sort through my dining notes and come up with a list of my favorite dining spots of roughly the past twelve months. We modestly call the resulting story, traditionally published in February, “Where To Eat Now.” On its face, it is an honor roll of the best and the tastiest new restaurants Texas has to offer. Practically speaking, though, I think of it as:  “I Eat Out So You Don’t Waste Your Money on a Dud.”

This year I made a dozen choices, whereas normally I select only ten. (What can I say—2012 was a very good year.) The types of places covered a lot of territory, from a Vietnamese cafe in Austin to Texas-centric meat palaces in Fort Worth and Houston, and from a French (but not too French) bistro in Dallas to an international vegetable palace in Houston. In between were a seafood restaurant and a number of places that can only be described by the all-encompassing adjective “eclectic.”

The story appears in the February 2013 Texas Monthly, an issue that is special for two reasons: it takes an in-depth look at our state’s six major cities and, not coincidentally, celebrates the fortieth anniversary of the founding of the magazine  (“Happy birthday to us, happy birthd . . . . .  “). If you don’t follow the restaurant scene, “Where To Eat Now” is a quick and easy way to catch up. If you do keep up, you can see whether you agree with me or not.

You can also take a little trip back to the dining scene in Texas circa 1973, when the magazine began publication. The write-up for each city has a quickie overview of the best-known restaurants from that era (raise your hand if you remember the Sir Loin House in Houston, Karam’s in San Antonio, the Carriage House in Fort Worth,  the Capital Oyster Company in Austin, Ewald’s in Dallas, or Casa del Sol in El Paso’s sister city, Juárez, Mexico).

I hope you’re a subscriber, but in case you’re not, here’s a run-down of the restaurants we selected. You can get the full details online at texasmonthly.com or in the magazine, available on newsstands now. To be eligible for “Where To Eat Now,” a restaurant had to have opened between November 1 2011, and November 1, 2012.

AUSTIN: Elizabeth Street Café and Salty Sow (honorable mention to Clark’s Oyster Bar, Lenoir)

DALLAS: Boulevardier, Driftwood, and Oak (honorable mention to FT33, Sissy’s Southern Kitchen and Bar)

EL PASO: Red Mountain Bistro

FORT WORTH: Woodshed Smokehouse

HOUSTON: Oxheart, Roost, Triniti, Underbelly (second locations were not eligible—sorry, Uchi; honorable mention to Lucille’s, Provisions, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop)

SAN ANTONIO: Bliss (honorable mention to Bite, Nao, Sustenio).

Tagged: Bite, Bliss, Boulevardier, Clark's Oyster Bar, Driftwood, Elizabeth Street Cafe, FT 33, Lenoir, Lucille's, Nao, Oak, Oxheart, Provisions, Red Mountain Bistro, Roost, Salty Sow, Sissy's Southern Kitchen and Bar, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, Sustenio, Triniti, Underbelly, Where To Eat Now, Woodshed Smokehouse

In case you haven’t heard, Feast, Houston’s first notable snout-to-tail restaurant,  announced it will close its doors for good in August 2013 after their five-year lease comes to an end. The shocking shutter announcement came via Twitter last week: “So the bad news is we’re closing in 9 months but the good news is you have 9 months to come eat at Feast! Thanks for all of your support.”

In July 2008, Pat Sharpe selected Feast as Pat’s Pick, and had this to say about the restaurant: “Given the amount of cajoling it takes for most people to even try organ meats, why would restaurant owners go to so much trouble? Because they think it’s important. Richard and James are big proponents of ‘nose to tail’ eating. This is a notion popularized by their highly regarded compatriot Fergus Henderson, of St. John, in London, who advocates using every part of an animal, inside and out. But in the end, while it’s fun to dine on the edge and admirable to be a conscientious carnivore, the main reason to go to Feast is for the flavors. Yes, you will be part of something significant, but mainly, you’ll eat very well.”

So why is the restaurant closing its doors? “There were not enough people coming through the doors on a regular basis,” James Silk, co-owner of Feast, admitted to the Houston Chronicle.

Feast received numerous accolades through the years, recognized by Bon Appétit, Texas Monthly, The New York Times, and even the James Beard Foundation. The restaurant was a pioneer in the snout-to-tail movement that has since taken over the Houston culinary scene. Restaurants like Underbelly and Oxheart have followed in their footsteps. The restaurant will be sorely missed.

Tagged: Feast, Houston, Layne Lynch, Oxheart, snout-to-tail, Underbelly

Exciting news for all the Houston foodies out there: the city is hosting a myriad of chef-organized, chef-led culinary tours in 2013. The “Where the Chefs Eat” Houston Culinary Tours started in 2010 as a means of teaching diners about the Houston food scene and all its intricacies and diversities.

Proceeds from the tours benefit Foodways Texas, a nonprofit organization that promotes and celebrates the diverse food cultures of Texas. This year, a number of talented chefs will be leading the tours including James Beard nominated chefs Robert del Grande, Anita Jaisinghani, and Levi Goode and The Next Iron Chef’s Bryan Caswell, Top Chef Masters’ Monica Pope, and Top Chef Just Desserts’ Rebecca Masson.

“Houston is a great town for food and culture, and through the culinary tours, we get to share that with people–Houstonians and tourists alike! It has singlehandedly changed the way the country views Houston chefs and the Houston culinary scene,” Monica Pope, owner/chef of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, says.

Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Chris Shepherd of Underbelly took guests to Houston’s prime places for eastern-Asia-inspired fare. Pictured here: Korean BBQ at Nam Gang. Photo taken by Shannon O’Hara.

“I participate because I love Houston,” Ryan Pera, owner/chef of Revival Market, says. “There is so much to explore on a culinary level–so many diverse restaurants and markets to try. It’s a great way to show others what I believe is unique and special about our city.”

The culinary tours are limited to sixteen participants each and cost $180 per person. Tour descriptions – taken directly from the press release – are below. To purchase tickets, see this link.

Sunday, January 13: Farm with Randy Evans, Claire Smith and Monica Pope
Get outta town! Canopy and Shade Chef Claire Smith, Chef Randy Evans of Haven restaurant and Sparrow Bar + Cookshop’s Monica Pope venture beyond the Loop to celebrate all things locally-grown. Visit each of the chefs’ favorite farms for pick-your-own produce and a tour of the land. Then, chase down some of Houston’s top food trucks known for their locally-sourced cuisine. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, January 20 – Korean with Chris Shepherd and Ryan Pera
Join Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd as they spotlight the ‘underbelly’ of Korean cuisine in Houston. Guests will go beyond barbecue, discovering traditional Korean fare in everything from a classic noodle house and Korean sushi bar to a Long Point Road mainstay and authentic Korean grocery store. Live octopus, anyone? On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, February 17 – Oyster with Bryan Caswell and Robb Walsh
Catch the bus when cookbook author Robb Walsh and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef set out in search of all-things oyster. Discover where to find the best bounty in the city, helpful shucking tips and get a lesson on the difference between East Coast and Gulf varieties. Caswell and Walsh will also highlight the local seafood counters selling Galveston Bay oysters, before bellying up to a few H-Town oyster bars for a taste of the sought-after seafood. On sale Dec. 3, 2012.

Sunday, March 17 – Seafood with Bryan Caswell and Levi Goode
Celebrate living along the Gulf Coast with a seafood-filled day in the city. Ride along with avid fisherman and Reef Chef Bryan Caswell, as he teams up with Goode Company president Levi Goode for an exploration of Houston’s top seafood selections. Among the day’s stops, guests will check out a soul food spot that draws crowds for its crab claws and rich gumbo, dig into top-notch sushi and discover where the chefs shop for the best catch in town. On sale Feb. 1, 2013.

Sunday, April 21 – Vietnamese with Ryan Pera and Monica Pope
As home to the largest Vietnamese population in Texas and the third-largest in the U.S., it’s safe to say that Houston is well-versed in the art of Vietnamese culture and cuisine. Chef Ryan Pera of Revival Market and Chef Monica Pope of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop share their favorite spots to find pho, bò bía and bánh mì. On sale March 1, 2013.

Sunday, May 19 – Pig with Chris Shepherd and Robert del Grande
Pigs have recently been on the front burner of some of the nation’s most sought-after kitchens-much to the dismay of animals of the porcine variety. But these days, the culinary masterminds are leaving little behind, thanks to an emphasis on nose-to-tail cooking and a little epicurean wherewithal. Tag along with Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and RDG + Bar Annie’s Robert del Grande as they share their favorite places to find, buy and delight in the city’s best pork. Head to a sustainable shop in the Heights to learn about locally raised heritage pigs, before heading out in the city to taste how different cultures put their spin on the savory meat. On sale April 1, 2013.

Sunday, June 23 – Taco with Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan
Any local can tell you, regular taco consumption just goes with the territory in H-Town. But around here, the sizzling fajitas have to share the spotlight with more than just Tex-Mex. Ride along with The Pass and Provisions’ Chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan as they spotlight the rolled-and-wrapped fare in Houston. From breakfast tacos and barbacoa varieties to Korean lettuce-wraps and taqueria-style selections, guests will walk away with a whole new appreciation for the take-along treat. On sale May 1, 2013.

Sunday, July 21 – Long Point Road with Bryan Caswell and Chris Shepherd
Anyone that’s ever driven down Long Point Road in West Houston’s Spring Branch district knows that it’s a melting pot for the city’s culinary scene. Join Underbelly’s Chef Chris Shepherd and Chef Bryan Caswell of Reef as they guide guests on a diverse and well-edited selection of their favorite undiscovered hole-in-the-walls. From wallet-friendly taco trucks and authentic Thai food to Korean barbecue and Korean fried chicken, it’s an eclectic mix of cuisines that are sure to please. On sale June 3, 2013.

Sunday, August 18 – Vegetarian with Robert del Grande and Anita Jaisinghani
Going meatless in the Lone Star State isn’t always easy, but Indika’s chef Anita Jaisinghani and Chef Robert Del Grande of RDG + Bar Annie are teaming up to prove Texas can turn out vegetarian fare just as well as anyone. Hop on the bus as both James Beard-nominated chefs share their favorite meatless menus in the city and point out the traditional places that knock vegetarian offerings out of the park. From Indian dosas and a Vietnamese mainstay to traditional basen ladoo at a 100 percent vegetarian-owned biz, guests will delight in a diverse mix of animal-free delicacies. On sale July 1, 2013.

Sunday, September 22 -BBQ with Levi Goode and Robb Walsh
Goode Company president Levi Goode and Legends of Texas Barbecue cookbook author Robb Walsh team up to showcase the most interesting barbecue Houston has to offer. Get ready for an array of offerings from Tex-Mex barbacoa tacos to interior Mexican, cabrito al pastor and lamb barbacoa, to falling-off-the-bone ribs and dirty rice at a family-owned, Bayou City-staple. On sale Aug. 1, 2013.

Sunday, October 13 – Brewery with Rebecca Masson, Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner
Spend the day brewery hopping with Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson, Hay Merchant’s Kevin Floyd and Brock Wagner, the founder of Saint Arnold-Texas’ oldest craft brewery. From grain to glass, guests will get an inside glimpse at the beer-making process at four of Houston’s most ground-breaking breweries. To round out the experience, a handful of the city’s top food trucks will be on site to serve up savory street fare with a modern twist. Discover everything from a mobile pizza biz and Vietnamese vendor to a sassy sandwich maker and comfort food truck. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Sunday, October 27 – Day of the Dead with Hugo Ortega and David Cordua
Join restaurateur-chef Hugo Ortega–of Montrose’s Hugo’s–and Chef David Cordua of Americas for an afternoon filled with cuisine and culture. Stop by the Museum District where a local gallery celebrates art, music and the practices of Mexico during a series of Día de los Muertos events. Later, the group will dig into savory snapper a la plancha at a Mexican mainstay, take a guided tour of Airline Market and swing by a Heights bakery for pan de los muertos. On sale Sept. 3, 2013.

Saturday, November 9 - Southern Comfort with Randy Evans and Rebecca Masson
Take a trip down memory lane and enjoy the best homestyle fare the city has to offer. Haven’s Chef Randy Evans and Fluff Bake Bar’s Rebecca Masson take guests on a tour of the comfort food restaurants that take them back to their childhood. From a momma-approved pie shop and a Cajun-inspired soul food joint to an old-fashioned fried chicken spot and an old-school barbecue classic, guests will be treated to all of the true flavors of the south. On sale Oct. 1, 2013.

Sunday, December 8 – Chinatown with Justin Yu and Ryan Pera
Grab a seat alongside Oxheart’s Justin Yu and Ryan Pera of Revival Market as they share the secrets and standouts of both Houston’s Chinatowns. Join them as they highlight delicious dim sum destinations and visit a couple of Vietnamese outposts known for their bahn cuon, bánh mì and spicy crawfish. Plus, learn the ins and outs of navigating one of the largest Asian markets in the city. On sale Nov. 1, 2013.

Tagged: Anita Jaisinghani, Brock Wagner, Bryan Caswell, Chris Shepherd, Culinary Tours, David Cordua, Fluff Bake Bar, Goode Company, Hay Merchant, Houston, Hugo Ortega, Justin Yu, Kevin Floyd, Layne Lynch, Levi Goode, Monica Pope, Oxheart, Randy Evans, RDG + Bar, rebecca masson, reef, Revival Market, Robb Walsh, Robert del Grande, Saint Arnold, Setih Siegel-Gardner, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, Terrence Gallivan, The Pass and Provisions, Underbelly, Where the Chefs Eat, Where the Chefs Eat Culinary Tours

Attention Dallas foodies: Bowery – an upscale hot dog restaurant on McKinney Avenue – is opening its doors to the public today. The restaurant’s menu includes a host of American classics, such as an upscale Korn Dog and a spicy Chili Kicker, with a number of global renditions as well, such as a Royal Wagyu Dog and a Banh-Mi Dog. These savory handheld edibles will come partnered with a menu of beer and champagne cocktails, including a Basil Shandy and a Champagne Sangria.

Richard and Tiffanee Ellman of Oak and John Paul Valverde of CampO Modern Country Bistro worked together to create Bowery’s unique, refined dog concept. The trio of restaurateurs talked with TEXAS MONTHLY about morphing a classic fast food into upscale cuisine, the Dallas’ culinary scene, and the story behind their new restaurant’s name.

I feel like I’ve recently seen a lot of Texas restaurants opening up that focus on sourcing one specific dish. With that said, where did the idea for hot dogs come from?

Richard Ellman: It’s something we’ve been thinking about for a long time. We wanted to target the simplicity of doing one core item and doing it very well. So, at its core, Bowery is about the hot dog. We really love hot dogs, but haven’t been able to find a great place to get gourmet, high-quality hot dogs, so we knew there was an opening in the marketplace… Before we thought of opening Bowery, my wife and I were constantly going to the store to get quality sausage, but there weren’t a lot of options to choose from. We did some research to find some out there, but there just wasn’t anything like we imagined or hoped for. I always think the best ideas come from knowing that if you really want something and you can’t get it, then you are probably not the only person that wants that item.

Explain the culinary inspiration for the menu. From what I understand there are a lot of global culinary influences in your dogs. 

John Paul Valverde: When we sat down and talked about the concept, I started envisioning all the different combinations we could do. We threw out some ideas and critiqued each other here and there. We wanted to keep the inspiration behind the classic dog that people know and expect, like the Chicago Dog, but we wanted to showcase our backgrounds and what we expect from food we get when we go out. In this case, we started talking about doing the classics that people expected like our Korn Dog with grits and cornmeal, but also having these more adventurous dogs like the Croque Madame with Paris ham, béchamel sauce, swiss cheese, and a fried egg. The menu is crazy-unique, and people will know they aren’t just eating something like a corn dog they would normally throw ketchup, hot sauce, and mustard on top of.

Richard Ellman: I want to add to that. This is something that we tried to do at our restaurant Oak, which is bring global elements into the mix. As John Paul said, there are dogs on our menu that we feel represent different cultures. We have a Banh-Mi dog that is Asian-influenced; we have an Italian dog; we have a dog that has Mexican influences. We wanted to push the boundaries a little bit on getting a global component on our menu and expanding the reach that people are used to when it comes to their hot dogs.

Is there a specific reason you guys chose the name Bowery for the restaurant?

Richard Ellman: Bowery, according to some people, is the first place hot dogs were commercially sold in the United States. It’s in New York. German immigrants came in there and were selling hot dogs off of street carts. The hot dogs were essentially bratwurst and sauerkraut dogs, and that led us to thinking about the history and tradition behind the hot dog in America. To my mind, it hasn’t maintained that place in society and culture as an essential part of the restaurant world. That’s why we wanted to elevate it back to its historical level.

John Paul Valverde: When we chose the name Bowery, we decided to design the restaurant to fit the name. Bowery is in an old residential structure that has turned commercial, so it’s in an actual house. We went with an old wood look so we would have some grit in there. We didn’t want a clean modern version of it. We wanted something more traditional, so in this case we did some vertical wood that goes from the floor to the ceiling. We also did some custom lights that run from one entry to the middle of the dining room, and it’s all steel. It reminds me of the rail system in New York. It’s dark. It’s gritty. But at the same time, it feels like you are in Bowery as soon as you walk in. Everything is a little darker than you would expect going into a restaurant like this.

What are each of your favorite dogs on the menu?

Tiffanee Ellman: I have to go with the Moroccan. It’s got some great ground lamb, plus Richard and I got engaged in Morocco, so I’m rather attached to it. It’s a very sophisticated dog.

Richard Ellman: My favorite is called the Overstuffed Dutchman. It’s got a whole bunch of ingredients and is packed full of flavor. The baguette is hollowed out, and all these different ingredients like bacon bits, chives, cheese, and the dog – of course – are all shoved into there. It’s an interesting take on something we’ve seen in other parts of the world, primarily in Europe.

John Paul Valverde: I have a few favorites. One of mine has to be the Croque Madame, only because when we developed I wanted to make sure we used classic ingredients, and that’s what we’ve stuck with in the end. Plus the presentation is gorgeous. The Korn Dog is phenomenal, too.

I feel like the Texas culinary scene as a whole has evolved tremendously. How have you seen Dallas’ culinary scene change in recent years?

John Paul Valverde: I think the beauty of Dallas is that a lot of credit is starting to be given to the customer, and they are now willing to try more than just steak. People are embracing certain foods, as opposed to being afraid of them. You see it at places like Underbelly in Houston and even in Austin. It’s sort of envious when you go to places in New York that have the menu items you do, and the restaurants are completely full all the time and there is no need to have chicken or steak on the menu at all. The exciting part of it for me is seeing people come in and embrace what’s on the menu.

Tagged: Bowery, Campo Modern Country Bistro, dallas, hot dogs, Layne Lynch, Oak, Underbelly