September—People, Places, Events, Attractions


Love him or hate him, you have to respect Anselm Kiefer’s sheer ambition. “The scale of his ideas is daunting, and the size of his works—some paintings are twenty-four feet high—is incredible,” says Michael Auping, who organized the Kiefer exhibit opening this month at the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth. “He asks big questions, about God, beginnings and endings, power, religion.” The first American survey of the German artist’s work in nearly two decades, “ ANSELM KIEFER: HEAVEN AND EARTH” traces a singular theme. “Kiefer asks the question of why we always seek a heaven, who tries to take us to it, and why we never seem to get there, burdened as we are by the weight of history,” explains the curator. If you know Kiefer’s work—highly textured, symbolic art with subjects such as postwar Europe and Christian mythology—this exhibit will put a new slant on it. If you don’t, says Auping, stand in front of a twenty-by-twenty-foot burned German landscape and you’ll get it. Katharyn Rodemann

(For directions and more information, see Fort Worth, Museums/Galleries: Modern Art Museum).


Look who’s coming to Texas

Jeff Tweedy—The Wilco front man plays at the Austin City Limits Music Festival on September 25. Interview By Jordan Breal

This is your third ACL fest. What keeps Wilco coming back?
We’ve always loved playing in Austin, and the festival is getting better every year. It’s a good bill and a good time.

So when you’re not playing, who are you going to sneak off and listen to?
I generally stay away from mob scenes, so I probably won’t go out of my way to see the big acts. I wish there was more interaction among the musicians, but last year it was so ridiculously hot that everyone stayed on their air-conditioned buses. I’m really just looking forward to playing, to be honest.

You’ve said that music is “finished” in the audience. What’s Wilco’s connection with the fans?
One of the striking features of our really good shows is that you can hear the audience singing over us. I wouldn’t sing along with Wilco if I was at our show, but people like singing to our esoteric, weirdly nonlinear lyrics, so good for them. Our live music has gotten a lot better than our records, because it’s more of a wall of sound, a bigger din.

Does your family tour with you?
My sons are five and nine, and they tour occasionally when they’re not in school. They love it. [Drumming in the background] That’s Spencer, my nine-year-old, playing right now. He’s really good. He has his own band, the Blisters.

After the festival, your band will be opening for the Rolling Stones in Atlanta.
Yeah, being asked to play with the Rolling Stones is kind of like being asked to meet the queen. It’s a no-brainer.

Will you be introducing any new music at your shows?
Almost everything off our last album, A Ghost is Born, was played live before we recorded it, but with this next record, which we started in August, we’re not doing that. It’s difficult to get a good version of a song that’s played live a bunch of times, so we’re trying to keep things under our hat this time.

(For directions and more information, see Austin, Music/Dance: Austin City Limits Music Festival).


The Choice is Yours.

Tails in Two Cities—Plus songbirds in El Paso and artists alfresco in San Antonio. By Adrianna Broyles

Smile at a crocodile—er, alligator—and before you know it, he’s having a pool party in your backyard. Just ask the residents of Anahuac, where the critters were rescued from near extinction only to overrun the two-legged inhabitants three to one. No matter. September 15–18, the city turns its surplus into a strength with GATORFEST, a celebration of all things swampy. Watch hunters haul in grinning beauties at the Great Texas Alligator Roundup or, if wrestling reptiles isn’t your thing, feed on fried gator instead.

(For directions and more information, see Anahuac, Other Events: Anahuac Texas Gatorfest).

Get on your high horse and air-kiss with the city’s crème de la crème this month at the HOUSTON POLO CLUB, where thoroughbreds and mallet-wielding players come together in what’s been called the game of kings. First, indulge your refined palate on September 11 at the Polo Italia and Risotto Festival, the club’s biggest benefit of the year, then show off your knowledge of divots and chukkers at the start of the 105th USPA Silver Cup, on September 28, when riders compete for the oldest and most coveted polo trophy in the country.

(For directions and more information, see Houston, Sports: Houston Polo Club).

Hank Williams might not have felt so lonesome

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