Basilica of Our Lady of San Juan del Valle, San Juan.

San Juan | January 27, 2007

RECTOR Eduardo Ortega
ADDRESS 400 N. Virgen De San Juan Boulevard
PHONE 956-787-0033
HEALING SERVICE Last Saturday of each Month At 7 P.M.

EVERY RELIGION OF CONSEQUENCE deals with ultimate matters: Why are we here? Where are we going? How can we relate to who or what sustains the universe? But every religion also has an instrumental dimension: How can I raise a good crop? How can I make an adequate living? And perhaps most urgent, how can my loved ones and I receive healing for our bodies and minds? The answers vary, from dips in the Ganges to tent revivals to disciplined meditation. Among Roman Catholics, certain sacred sites draw pilgrims in search of healing and other blessings. The most notable of these in Texas is the Basilica of Our Lady of San Juan del Valle, just a few miles north of the border town of Reynosa.

The major attraction at the basilica—the designation of “basilica” means that Our Lady of San Juan del Valle is considered one of the pope’s special churches, where he would likely attend were he to winter in the Valley—is a small wooden figure of the Virgin Mary, a replica of a beloved statue from the Mexican village of San Juan de Los Lagos. After migrants from that area moved northward, they persuaded their priest in San Juan, Texas, to obtain a copy. Placed in the parish church in 1949, that statue gained a reputation as a source of blessing and soon drew large numbers of visitors, leading to the dedication of a shrine—briefly, a particularly holy spot, worthy of pilgrimages—in 1954, with 60,000 people present.

Its mystique was enhanced in October 1970, when the pilot of a small plane deliberately crashed into the building, creating a fire that destroyed everything except the tower. Marvelously, no one on the ground was injured, and the statue was rescued from the flames unsinged, adding to its fame. For the next ten years, Mary held court in the parish cafeteria.

The new shrine, dedicated in April 1980, reminds one more of a modern megachurch than of Lourdes or Medjugorje. Constructed mainly of large limestone blocks, its amphitheater sanctuary can seat more than 1,800. Notably lacking in the sanctuary itself is the statuary often found in Catholic churches, particularly those with ties to Mexico. Instead of being represented by plaques along the walls, the stations of the cross are depicted in life-size bronze statues placed along a three-quarter-mile circular path outside the church. A large but simple crucifix hangs on one side, but unless I missed something, that’s it, except for the statue of the Virgin, which is only three feet tall but is set in the midst of a glorious, mandala-like aggregation of biblical and saintly figures that nearly fills the wall of the chancel. Beneath her, in a sunken area largely out of sight of the congregation, people come to pray, light candles, make promises, and bring flowers to honor her.

I had come specifically for the healing service, held at seven o’clock in the evening on the last Saturday of each month, but caught a bit of the regular five-thirty mass, which had packed the sanctuary. It appeared that most of the six hundred or so people who were seeking healing simply stayed over from the earlier service. Their devotion was rewarded by a half-hour concert from a superb fourteen-piece mariachi band. As with many gatherings in the Valley, the crowd was predominantly Latino but also included a number of Anglos, blacks, and people of Asian descent.

The presiding priest was Father Edouard Atangana, the coordinator of Health Ministries for the Diocese of Brownsville, which includes San Juan (Atangana is not specifically assigned to the basilica but assists with the healing services). A native of Cameroon, he delivered a fairly long sermon in both English and Spanish, dividing it into extended stretches in each language. He told the story, found in Mark 4:35—41, of how Jesus and his disciples had been caught in a fierce storm on the Sea of Galilee. When the disciples woke Jesus from a nap to tell him they feared for their lives, he spoke to the wind, saying, “Peace! Be still!” and the storm immediately calmed. With Jesus in the boat, Atangana said, nothing really bad can happen to us, a comforting but empirically dubious assertion.

The sermon was more psychological than sacred and could apply to people in or out of the Jesus boat. Human relationships, he said, are critical for physical and emotional well-being. Broken relationships can inflict great pain

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