The long identity crisis is over. The dining room that started out as Ling & Javier and then morphed into Maverick has finally come into its own as Bistro Moderne. And if early visits are any indication, this smartly turned out black-and-cream spot is here to stay. The menu, created by executive chef Philippe Schmit, formerly of New York’s Le Bernardin, Orsay, and La Goulue, updates and reimagines classic French bistro fare. I was quite taken with my crabmeat-and-avocado bombe, a cool and savory starter. My friend swooned over his grilled paillard of veal, tender slices topped with a pâté-like mushroom spread. If you crave a simple croque monsieur or hanger steak, they are served continually in the restaurant’s casual Bistro Café area. No identity crisis here. PATRICIA SHARPE
