Food Get Your Goat

Here’s something to chew on: the most succulent cabrito in Texas.

Despite having an occasional plate of curried goat at a West Indian restaurant or cabrito at a Mexican establishment, I didn’t learn to love goat meat until I was invited to serve as a judge at the 1987 World Championship Barbeque Goat Cook Off in Brady. I have missed only one cookoff since, because, in addition to having a proper sense of humor about itself, the Brady event provides consistently good eating. The entries offer uniformly lean, tender, juicy meat, with nary an irredeemably bad bite in the bunch (unlike other cookoffs, where it’s necessary to spit out a few samples).

If Texans know more about goat meat than other Americans, it’s because cabrito is a northern Mexican delicacy that apparently originated around Monterrey and was brought across the Rio Grande by ranchers. Only in the Caribbean (where the islands are too small for grazing larger animals) and parts of the Middle East (where the land is too arid) have humans learned to cook goat as well as they do in Mexico.

This wasn’t always the

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