Nouveau Grub

Stephan Pyles and a passle of other innovative restaurateurs are putting their brands on a new dining experience: provocative, informal decor served up with stylish and healthy food, all at a fair price. Texans are eating it up.

Inside a cavernous structure on the corner of Oak Lawn and Cedar Springs, renowned Dallas chef Stephan Pyles strolls about, wearing a smile that is as discreetly tailored as his blue silk suit and his close-cropped beard. The 42-year-old chef’s eyes appraise the property with dreamy fondness, imagining the wine room in the corner there, the buckskin against those windows, the great stone fireplace that will overtake the wall to his right. Within a few months the vacant property will be Star Canyon restaurant, filled with the aromas of Pyles’s cooking and, presumably, with the very individuals who now drive obliviously past the building.

At the moment, the food seems like the easy part. It has been a day of numbing details for the former chef and co-owner of Routh Street Cafe. He began the morning with a three-hour session at David Carter Design Associates, where he and his partner, Michael Cox, argued over the miniscule differences between various proposed Star Canyon logos. They couldn’t agree upon the right shade of green and at one point took the meeting outside, where they stood in front of a tree and pointed at leaves: “You mean, more like that color?”

Tags: FOOD

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