Here's something that fits right in with the local food craze: "Nose to tail eating." I just gave it a whirl at Feast, in Houston. Granted, the idea of eating the whole critter, inside and out, may not be everybody's cup of tea, but what they're doing at Feast is so tasty, and the setting is so comfy and unpretentious, that you can't just dismiss it out of hand. And it's not like they've discovered new organ meats to freak you out--these are the usual things like sweetbreads and pork cheeks--stuff you've seen before, right? Speaking which, the pork cheeks are cooked up like pulled pork (we like that) and nestled up to dandelion greens (sort of like collards, but nice and mild). Yum. Reminded me of the way folks cook greens in the Deep South, with salt pork. In any case, Feast worth a try for the adventurous eater. I'll be writing more about it in my column, Pat's Pick, in the July issue of TM. 219 Westheimer, Houston, 713-529-7788. They're open for lunch Mon & Wed-Sat, for dinner Mon & Wed-Sun. Closed Tue.
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