I pity anyone who doesn't live in Austin, because they can't have lunch at La Traviata. Today chef-owner Marion Gillcrist did ravioli with lamb shank in ragu, a marvel of parchment-thin pasta filled with fluffy ricotta in a deeply meaty sauce swimming with fava beans, crisp green peas, and minced carrots, all under a dusting of parmigiano reggiano. The meat fell to pieces as you scooped it and you never wanted to stop eating. 314 Congress Ave. (512-479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri. Dinner Mon-Sat. Closed Sun.
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