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Tue April 30, 2013 11:22 am
Texas Wine Shines at Austin Food & Wine Festival
By Jessica Dupuy

Last weekend’s Austin Food & Wine Festival not only spotlighted an array of tasty treats, savvy cooking tips, and insider pointers on savoring wine and beer, but it also offered seminar with a more focused look at some of Texas’ top award-winning wines. In a panel discussion moderated by noted Texas wine expert Russell Kane, a roundup of Master and Advanced level sommeliers—including Craig Collins (MS), Devon Broglie (MS), and June Rodil (AS)—joined Food & Wine magazine wine editor Ray Isle on a discussion of six gold-medal winners from this year’s Dallas Morning News/TexSom International Wine Competition.

Of the total twelve gold medal wines from the competition, Kane narrowed it down to six wines that he felt captured a broader spectrum of the grape varietals Texas winemakers are succesful with, while still giving the audience something familiar to enjoy. 

Brennan Vineyards, Lily 2012 

First up was a selection from Brennan Vineyards, a white Rhone blend of Viognier and Roussane aptly called “Lily” for its beautiful floral aromatics and its silken fruit and floral palate.

Panelist June Rodil of the soon-to-open Qui Restaurant applauded the elegance of the wine saying, “It has a beautiful florality and this wonderful glycerol feel to it. I love suggesting white Rhone blends to people who enjoy Chardonnay as another option of a white wine that gives good weight and complexity, but has these added ‘pretty’ characteristics to it. This Lily is a perfect example.” 

Pedernales Cellars Viognier 2012

With a concentrated focus on Tempranillo and Viognier, Pedernales Cellars has been generating a lot of buzz in the local wine world. Their 2012 Viognier is a big hit, taking top honors not only in the Dallas Morning News/TexSom competition, but in the well-regarded Houston Live Stock Show and Rodeo, as well is with a recent win from Lyon, France, where this single wine was the only United States wine given a Double Gold medal in the Lyon International Wine Competition.

“This wine is remarkably balanced and complex, not just as an American example of Viognier, but compared to anything around the world,” master sommelier Devon Broglie of Whole Foods Market said. “Especially at a price of about $17, I’d put this wine up against any viognier on the planet. It’s just delicious!”

Llano Estacado Cellar Reserve Tempranillo 2010

With perhaps the longest running stories in the Texas wine industry—aside from Messina Hof—Llano Estacado has made a name for its breadth of award-winning wines in the state. This Texas Tempranillo is a perfect wine to use as an example of what this type of wine should taste like.

“My overall sensory analysis on this wine is, it’s good,” exclaimed Isle. “It’s medium bodied, with good fruit and a tannic grip on the end.” 

Kiepersol Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Stainless 2010

Our April Texas Wine of the Month, this unusual example of Cabernet Sauvignon gives a full expression of concentrated fruit, without the added characteristics that oak often imparts to this big, bold grape.

“Cabernet is inherently tannic, but this is remarkably balanced,” said master sommelier Craig Collins of Dalla Terra Wines. “They accentuated the beautiful fruit flavors with pronounced blackberry while letting the tannin mellow out just long enough in stainless steel. This would pair beautiful with a good fatty steak. 

Bending Branch Winery Tannat

Who knew a grape that could put Uruguay on the wine world's radar could also be a great grape for Texas? Winemaker Robert Young figured this out a while back, and took a gamble that it might produce good wine.

“Tannat is like Malbec on steroids,” says Isle. “when made well, it has beautiful dark berry fruit and can be super tannic. This wine has a good acidity that makes it more floral and refreshing with hints of cranberry, strawberry and cherry. This is an expression of a wine that has been treated with a delicate hand.”

Messina Hof Tribute to Heritage Riesling 2011

You can, in fact, make food Riesling in Texas. Messina Hof’s Tribute to Heritage is a perfect example of that with it’s stunning fruit and floral off-dry characteristics. This is a “father and son cuvée,” which signifies one of the first blends founder Paul Bonarrigo and his son, Paul VII collaborated on at the winery. 

“I’m in love with Riesling,” says June Rodil. “It has the greatest range of characteristics than any white wine out there and it’s usually what professional sommeliers flock to as they learn more about wine. It’s something we drink to start a meal and finish a meal. This Messina Hof Riesling has beautiful floral notes and great balanced acidity. I’d drink this straight through an entire meal and enjoy every bit of it.”

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The panel concluded with Kane commending the great strides Texas wine has taken in recent years.

“This sampling of Texas wine really shows the breadth of well made wines that can be enjoyed in this state,” he said. “We’ve taken lessons from grapes in warmer climates and we’re looking to place like Chile and Argentina to figure out how to do things differently. It’s a new world out there, and Texas wine is really showing it has the chops to make great wine.”

If you’d like a chance to taste some of these wines, join the Texas wine conversation on Tuesday May 14, for a special Texas Wine Twitter Tasting where Gold Medal winners from the Dallas Morning News/TexSom International Wine Competition will be tasted and tweeted about starting at 7 p.m. Messina Hof Winery has collaborated with other Texas gold medal winning wineries to put together a special Twitter Tasting three-pack of wines for the next few months to allow anyone with an interest in Texas wine to give these wines a try.  

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Mon April 29, 2013 12:45 pm
The Austin Food & Wine Festival Cleans Up Its Act the Second Time Around
By Patricia Sharpe

Compared to last year’s Austin Food and Wine Festival, something was noticeably missing this time around: griping.

Speaking strictly for myself, the experience this last weekend was at least 100 percent better. Some of the improvement was due to luck and the weather. There was no repeat of last year’s dust bowl and the temperature was a little cooler, especially in the mornings. Even so, I thought I would have heatstroke during the audience-participation grilling event, “Heads or Tails,” with chef Tim Love and TV personality Andrew Zimmern, pictured above. With the sun beating down at 2 p.m. and dozens of grills full of hot coals going full blast all around us, I had the surreal feeling I had wandered into an episode of Survivor. And I was about to be voted off the island.

But luck was only an incidental part of the equation. The improvement was significantly due to a smart move to Butler Park, which was a smaller and grassier venue. It also had more trees; the organizers had set up more tables and tents; and you didn’t have to hike a quarter mile from one side to the other like last year. (Then, I would have killed for an on-site pedicab.)

This year, I never got to the H-E-B "grand tasting pavilion" (which sounds classier than “big tent filled with free food,” the more appropriate description of the area), but friends reported that it too was far better than last year’s disorienting mosh pit. There was more space, you could navigate easier, and, most important, there was representation by more small wineries and more local food vendors.

So was it worth the considerable money to buy a ticket (it’s $250 a person for basic entry, $850 a person for the special-privilege package)? That depends.

For the basic package, if you only did a fraction of what they offered—for instance if you went to only five food/recipe demos, did two lunchtime pig-outs at the tasting pavilion, and hit up the tasting room sessions a couple of times over the two-day event—you would more than get your money’s worth PROVIDED you could get in to enough of the demos you were really interested in. But, IMO, it was a deal. And of course we should consider the  intangibles like getting your picture taken with Marcus Samuelsson, Jonathan Waxman, or Paul Qui (if you have to ask who they are, this festival isn’t your thing).

For $850, you are basically buying guaranteed access (with less standing in line) and entry to a couple of exclusive “parties” (the big evening tasting walkabouts where the national and local chefs are all trying to out-do each other). I guess if you wouldn’t miss $1,700 per couple, it’s worth it. But that’s not a calculation I’ve ever been lucky enough to make. You one-percenters can tell me if you agree.

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Fri April 26, 2013 3:29 pm
Momofuku's Christina Tosi on Her Love For Kolaches
By Layne Lynch

This weekend, a host of well-known chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs will descend upon Austin for the second annual Austin Food & Wine Festival.

To prepare for this weekend's food and wine festivities, Texas Monthly spoke with a few of the local and celebrity chefs from this year's lineup.

Here, Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar in New York City talks about her fascination for Austin, kolaches, and barbecue, what David Chang has taught her, and writing a second cookbook. 

Layne Lynch: Welcome back to Austin! What made you decide to return for year two, and what are some things you'll be participating in at the festival?

Christina Tosi: I'm pretty much madly in love with Austin. I was born in Ohio and raised in Virginia. My first trip to New York City was when I moved, so needless to say I had never been to Austin until two years ago. I've been back eight times since. It is easily my favorite place to visit. Having to go for work is the best excuse ever! At the festival, I'll be teaching an intro to Milk Bar cakes called Take On Cake. I'll talk about the theory and thought behind several techniques from the cake itself, the layers and fillings, why I refuse to cover the cakes sides, etc. Spoiler alert: I'll be slicing up and serving chocolate chip cake. On Saturday, I'll be walking the savory line at the Rock Your Taco event. I'll be rocking my love letter to New York City on a white corn tortilla with brisket, pastrami, Russian-dressed slaw and sauerkraut, pickled mustard seeds, and toasted caraway seed.

LL: A lot of Austin pastry chefs I've talked to credit you for bringing a newfound energy and creativity to the pastry scene. If you could be so kind, would you describe your creative process and how it translates to the dessert plate?  

CT: That's an awfully generous statement and way too much credit! When I first opened Milk Bar, I was quite adamant about making sure it was a true, honest reflection of life and food through my eyes. There was no intention beyond that. I credit everything else to the masses that received it so enthusiastically. I am also incredibly fortunate to be given a canvas to create within the Momofuku name. 

My creative process is pretty simple. Milk Bar is an unyieldingly collaborative environment. Everyone is asked, encouraged, and required to participate. Inspiration has to be pure. There is a big difference between being inspired and being influenced. I think of creating as walking to the beat of your own drum. It's not being crazy or different just because. It's really checking your idea at the door and being honest about it. A good idea is inspired, honest, and pure. A good idea is not wacky to be wacky or trendy to be trendy. Creative minds inspire creativity. It's kind of like improv. The rules are there, and there are no bad ideas. We just go from there. All it takes is an honest heart, a love for food, and anywhere from one day (Milk Bar's cereal milk), to twenty-four months (Milk Bar's birthday cake), to four years (Milk Bar's pancake cake)!

LL: Are there any restaurants, bars, or bakeries you want to check out while you're in Austin? How about any local pastry chefs?

CT: Yes! I always check on Laura Sawicki, a pal from New York City back in the day; her flavors never lie! Jodi Elliott from Foreign & Domestic's Saturday Bake Sale. I always go to Elizabeth St. Cafe and buy one of every pastry. Gourdough's Doughnuts. Kolaches from anywhere they're for sale. Philip Speer and the whole Uchi team. Callie Speer [at Swift's Attic] always has something awesome she's working on. I'm also going to check on Paul Qui and his team at [Qui's] pre-opening.

I am forever on a queso quest and a migas taste test. Amaya's Taco Village is always an important stop, as is Snow's for barbecue and their sneak attack pecan pie. Saturday morning I plan to bust a move to Lexington first, then hit up Foreign & Domestic after. I could go on my seven-day agenda, but I'll spare you!

LL: You work closely with David Chang. He's one of the most knowledgeable and opinionated chefs in the industry. What is the greatest lesson he has taught you thus far?

CT: When Momofuku was still quite small, we spoke a great deal about the value we put in our staff and the importance of growing what we do in order to create opportunities for the great people on our teams. We're breaking the chain of what you typically find in a restaurant: a great staff that ends up leaving or moving on because there's no real long-term room for growth. We are only as good and strong as our dedicated team. Challenging the rules is vital. We're pushing to pay the staff as much as possible, providing benefits to all the staff, and providing real room for growth, as well as every other aspect – food, style of service, etc.

LL: What is your perfect dessert?

CT: My perfect dessert is quite vague. It's balanced, has a depth of flavor, a point of view, texture, and is inspired. Not influenced; there's nothing worse than that. It has a connection that's made; an "aha" moment. A conversation between the maker and the eater. In my mind, every dessert has the potential to be a perfect dessert to me. 

LL: What's next from you? Can we expect to see a new cookbook or bakery anytime soon?

CT: Yes! I just sold Milk Bar Life to Clarkson Potter and have begun writing it. We don't have a firm publication date yet, but I imagine it will be out sometime in 2014. It's all about the culture, community, and heart of Milk Bar. The silly things that drive us, the inside jokes that keep us smiling every day at work, and the off-the-menu food that fuels our creativity and inspires us to keep pushing.

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Fri April 26, 2013 11:11 am
Top Chef Marcus Samuelsson on What Makes the Austin Food & Wine Fest "Rock 'N Roll"
By Layne Lynch

This weekend, dozens of well-known chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs will descend upon Austin for the second annual Austin Food & Wine Festival.

To prepare for this weekend's food and wine festivities, Texas Monthly spoke with a few of the local and celebrity chefs from this year's lineup.

Here, James Beard Award-winning chef Marcus Samuelsson of Red Rooster in Harlem and Top Chef Masters fame discusses his role in this year's Austin Food & Wine Festival.

Layne Lynch: Welcome back to Austin! What made you decide to return for year two?

Marcus Samuelsson: This festival is a little more rock 'n' roll and has a different vibe from other food festivals. Plus, with a great food and music scene, this is the place to be. I'm looking forward to competing in the Rock Your Taco event where I'll be bringing a little Ethiopian flavor to the table. 

LL: You seem genuinely excited about what's taking place in the Austin culinary scene. What are some of the factors that make Austin stand out among other food cities like New York, San Francisco, and Seattle?

MS: Chefs here are a bit more daring and think outside the box. I love how they can be experimental and how it usually works in their favor. 

LL: Are there any restaurants, bars, places you want to check out while you're in town?

MS: I'm looking forward to going back to La Condesa, who hosted me while I was touring for Yes, Chef last summer, and I hear there's a bar with over fifty beers from regional Texas breweries. How cool is that? And whenever I'm in town, I love to check out my favorite hotels like Saint Cecilia and Hotel San Jose. 

LL: I know a few of the chefs in the festival lineup this year came out of your kitchens. Do you keep up with a lot of your former cooks and chefs?

MS: Absolutely. A lot of them have actually come back and are with me at Red Rooster or my other restaurants. I encourage my guys to go out and experience the world and other kitchens and if I'm able to work with them again, it's just that much better. 

LL: How do you balance being a celebrity and chef at the same time?

MS: Having been fortunate enough to be good at what I do, I've been able to explore other avenues of creativity. Cooking is still my priority and passion, but because I'm a naturally curious person, I'm never going to stop looking for opportunities outside the kitchen.

LL: Last time we talked, you had just released your book Yes, Chef, which turned out to be tremendously successful. What's the next project on your plate?

MS: We just got in our first copies of Yes, Chef in paperback, so I'm going to embark on a slightly shorter book tour of cities that we missed the first time around. The paperback version is available May 21. 

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Fri April 26, 2013 11:04 am
Tim Love on His New Steakhouse in Fort Worth and Expanding to Austin
By Layne Lynch

This weekend, dozens of well-known chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs will descend upon Austin for the second annual Austin Food & Wine Festival.

To prepare for this weekend's food and wine festivities, Texas Monthly spoke with a few of the local and celebrity chefs from this year's lineup.

Here, Fort Worth chef Tim Love of Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, Woodshed Smokehouse, and the recently opened Queenie's Steakhouse talks grilling demos, opening an Austin restaurant, and why Dallas and Fort Worth deserve more cred.

Layne Lynch: Your grilling demo was my favorite part of the festival last year. How are you going to top it in year two?

Tim Love: We certainly had some fun last year, but as with anything, I always learn and improve. We have some new cuts of meat this year and some new tips. However, we still have the white wine and tequila just like last year.

LL: You seem to be pretty fond of Austin, yet you don't have a restaurant here. Will we see a Tim Love restaurant in Austin in the near future?

TL: I have been looking for the right space in Austin. Everyone here has always been very welcoming to me, and I really enjoy supporting the local community and charities in Austin. Hopefully you will see a Tim Love concept in Austin in the very near future!

LL: Houston and Austin garnered a lot of local and national attention this year for their culinary scenes, but I can't help but feel like Dallas and Fort Worth were left out. Do you feel like Fort Worth and Dallas should get the same credit as Houston and Austin?

TL: I always feel like Fort Worth and Dallas deserve more credit. It is my hometown after all, but as long as people are recognizing all the great stuff that is going on in the state of Texas, it makes me happy. After all, there is a lot of great stuff happening in Texas and sometimes you just have to wait your turn to get the recognition.

LL: Are there any restaurants, bars, bakeries you want to check out while you're in Austin?

TL: There are a lot of places I'll be hanging out.  I get to Austin often, so I tend to hang at some of my haunts: Cocktails at Ranch 616 or Star Bar, food at Sway, Foreign & Domestic, and Barley Swine, just to name a few. I am really looking forward to breaking out my new tailgate truck and grilling some great food for random people on the street throughout the week and weekend.

LL: You've become somewhat of a celebrity chef in recent years, How do you balance being a celebrity and chef at the same time?

TL: I get this question a lot actually. Well, Thursday I was in Austin personally cooking a four-course dinner for the St. David's Foundation. Friday and Saturday I was cooking on the line at my new restaurant Queenie's Steakhouse in Denton, and then I have spent the last two days reorganizing the menu at Woodshed. I just finished writing the menus for the whole football season at TCU. I could go on and on. I don't particularly look at myself as a celebrity but more as cook with a lot to do. I love all my restaurants, guests, and fans, but I still love waking up in the morning trying to figure out some cool, new shit to make.

LL: What's next from you? Can we expect to see a new restaurant, cookbook, or project soon?

TM: I just opened Queenie's Steakhouse three weeks ago, so I am very busy with that. On May 9, I'm hosting the third annual Burgers 4 Babies event at Woodshed to raise money for Fort Worth’s NICU Helping Hands Foundation. I do have a very cool book in the works, and as always, I have some very cool stuff in store for ACL this year.

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