Thu April 25, 2013 1:21 pm By Patricia Sharpe

It’s a wonder that any of the contestants of “Citywide 86’d,” a competition inspired by the Food Network show Chopped, managed to boil a teaspoon of water under the crazy conditions they were subjected to. The kitchen of Austin's Uchiko (which co-sponsored the event with its sister restaurant Uchi) was clogged with camera- and iPhone-wielding reporters and bloggers and friends of the cooks, who mostly just got in the way while the competitors raced from stove to counter to sink. Flames leapt, knives flashed, sauté pans sizzled, spoons were flung across cutting boards, and liquid nitrogen steamed.

But somehow the four cooks managed to focus. Just like in Chopped, they were given ingredient baskets filled with various products that seem impossible to meld into a single dish. There were three rounds—appetizer, entrée, and dessert—and after each dish was completed and tasted, one chef was eliminated.

The contestants were Joaquin Ceballas from Sway, Dan Gamoran from La Condesa, Corey Macks from Parkside, and Coliman Uribe from Swift’s Attic. The contest—which had no prize except the fun of competing and satisfaction of winning—was open to all employees of invited restaurants (excluding chefs and sous chefs).

The judges included Paula Disbrowe, cookbook author and travel writer; Jeramie Robison, chef de cuisine at Uchi; Elizabeth Winslow, founder of Farmhouse Delivery and Haymakers; and Jennie Chen, author of the blog misohungry.

At the end of the three rounds—which lasted from 20 to 25 minutes each—the last man standing was Joaquin, from Sway. The next two rounds will take place in May and June. There is talk of the June finals being open to the public.   

The Appetizer Round: Shrimp, blood orange, yukari, kikurage tree fungus 

Joaquin Ceballas from Sway concocted a Thai-inspired shrimp salad while Corey Macks, from Parkside, did blood orange ginger gel and seared shrimp.

Dan Gamoran, from La Condesa, made poached shrimp with a jalapeno and blood orange broth (pictured).

In the end, it was Coliman Uribe, from Switft’s Attic, who was eliminated (after which Paula Disbrowe joked that she heard a door slam and a Moped start up).

 

The Entrée Round: Brats, green garlic, black radish, galangal

Dan poached the brats in a beer broth with the mustard and green garlic and galangal. He then made a sauerkraut of fennel and black radish, and finished the dish with fresh veggies. He used the poaching liquid to create a sauce with Dijon, green garlic, and the galangal.

Joaquin charred the bratwurst, made a sweet, pickled galangal and onion relish, and mixed maltodextrin powder with habanero and carrots in a Thai style fish and palm sugar glaze. 

Corey made a pistachio pesto, grilled the brat, pickled the galangal and garlic, and made a "soil" of some pistachio, but his efforts weren't enough. He lost.

 

The Dessert Round: Chocolate, pistachios, goose eggs, guajillo chile

Joaquin powdered chocolate and guajillo with malto dextrin and pistachio oil. He experimented with a frozen egg custard and added texture by topping the dish with a sprinkle of pistachio.

Dan made a guacolate and guajillo polenta, and served sliced fruit in simple syrup. 

In the end, it was Joaquin of Sway that impresed the judges enough to be sent to the next round of competition. 

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Thu April 25, 2013 11:54 am By Layne Lynch

This weekend, dozens of well-known chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs will descend upon Austin for the second annual Austin Food & Wine Festival.

To prepare for this weekend's food and wine festivities, Texas Monthly spoke with a few of the local and celebrity chefs from this year's lineup.

Here, Paul Qui of East Side King, Top Chef fame, and the yet-to-be-opened restaurant, Qui, discusses his much-anticipated restaurant, traveling across the world, and what Austin chefs inspire him.

Layne Lynch: You've had a whirlwind few months. You've been traveling, making appearances, and opening East Side King on the Drag. Now that Qui is about to open, are you ready to get back in the kitchen for a while? 

Paul Qui: Absolutely! I'm getting restless and can't wait to cook in my new kitchen. My head is about to explode with all the ideas that I want to pursue and develop at Qui. 

LL: The anticipation behind QUI is remarkable. What are some of the surprises we can expect to see when the restaurant opens? 

PQ: There will be no surprises, really. The restaurant is based on the best ingredients and best efforts that my team and I can execute. 

LL: I know you've been eating quite a bit on your travel stops, so I have ask, what cities or restaurants have inspired you most?

PQ: RyuGin and Jiro in Tokyo; Noma in Copenhagen; Dinner [by Heston Blumenthal] in London; Modernist Kitchen in Seattle; Meadowood in Napa; Pujol in Mexico City; Robuchon Atelier and Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie in Paris; Mugaritz, Arzak, and Akelarre in San Sebastian; and many more. All my dishes at Qui will pull inspiration from all my experiences and all my team's experiences.  

LL: You've just recently become quite the celebrity chef. Is it exciting to have people recognize you everywhere you go in Austin, or are there days when you just want to go unnoticed?

PQ: I don't know how to act like a celebrity; all I can do is act like myself and hope people appreciate me and my craft.  

LL: Who are some of the local Austin chefs you admire or draw inspiration from?

PQ: Tyson Cole has been my primary mentor, but I've been inspired and mentored by Shawn Cirkiel, Philip Speer, Andrew Bell, and Deegan McClung throughout the years. I really dig Casey Wilcox's food from Justine's, especially when he gets back from one of his food trips. Rene Ortiz, Laura Sawicki, Egnipont, Ek, Yoshi Okai, [and] Tatsu Aikawa to name a few.  

LL: After Qui opens, what new projects can we expect to see from you? Cookbooks, restaurants, pop-ups, collaborations, ACL and SXSW events?

PQ: Definitely all of the above, but my main focus will be Qui. I'm interested in doing a lot things, but I will get tunnel vision once we open the doors at Qui. My main focus will be the exciting ingredients that we'll be bringing in and how to make them amazing. 

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Mon April 22, 2013 5:03 pm By June Naylor

Denton’s fine-dining category doubled a few days ago when celebrity chef Tim Love opened Queenie's Steakhouse, the city’s first fancy steakhouse, located a block off the courthouse square. Honoring his mama by applying her family nickname to the joint, Love has brought some of his signature dishes and a couple of intriguing new ones to Queenie’s.

Last Friday night we watched an animated crowd pack the 65-seat dining room and 35-seat bar, with more than a few well-dressed patrons table-hopping as they spotted friends here and there. In other words, it looks like Hannah’s, the longtime Denton destination when you wanted a good hanger steak and a glass of fine red, no longer stands alone as the special-occasion place in town.

Queenie’s is only open three days a week (at least for now), and the menu is shorter than those at most Love restaurants. Still, it’s big enough for him to push the envelope. From the section labeled "First," we nabbed the spicy lobster salad, inspired by his travels in the Caribbean. The simple salad is a mingling of chunks of fresh, cool lobster, chopped tomato and onion, minced scotch bonnet chile, and a generous squeeze of lime.

From the "Second" options, we tucked into a dish of ricotta gnocchi dressed in a tomatoey sauce that includes the famous, or possibly infamous, sausage (minced rattlesnake, rabbit and fennel) that is a staple on Love’s menu at Lonesome Dove, located in the Fort Worth Stockyards district. We skipped the monster Wagyu tomahawk steak for two, choosing instead the New York strip, judiciously cloaked in coarse salt and cracked peppercorns and served with a small selection of sauces, including a garlic demi and a cilantro pesto.

We also did a vegetarian course and were wowed by the massive, roasted poblano chile with a filling of diced sweet potato and caramelized red onion and a topping of melted fontina cheese. Sitting atop a pool of corn puree and smooth black beans, it’s not just an afterthought, which is often the case with veggie dishes. A side of roasted hen of the woods and cremini mushrooms added another level of texture and flavor to both steak and chile dishes.

“I’ve always wanted to do a straight-up, quality steakhouse in Denton,” says Love, who was raised in Denton by Margaret “Queenie” Love, who continues to reside there. “The time was finally right. We got a little criticism for doing high-end in a college town, but it looks like it’s working.”

We’re inclined to agree, and are likely to return, Interstate 35 traffic be damned. It’s only 30-ish miles north of Dallas and Fort Worth. Besides, we need to check out his pheasant confit “chop” and that crazy fried whole lobster. If the crowd continues to grow, we’ll just sip martins and dine at the community table in the bar, where a jazz band from nearby UNT plays, like the locals seem to enjoy doing. The setting is quite pleasant, and you’d never guess it had been the location of his Love Shack burger joint. The exterior is wrapped in strips of wood and metal for a contemporary style, and wife Emilie Love warmed up the interior with draperies suspended from thick rails; heavy, soft-leather seating; and small candles (real ones, not the ridiculous LED kind) and plentiful fresh flowers on the tables.

Appetizers range from $6 to $12; main courses are $24 to $58, with the tomahawk for two $85. Bar. 115 E. Hickory, Denton (940-442-6834). Lunch Fri only 11:30–2:30. Dinner Thur–Sat 4:30–midnight. 

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Fri April 19, 2013 11:54 am By Layne Lynch

Last year's Austin Food & Wine Festival featured well-known chefs from all over the country, but this year's talent primarily focuses on chefs from Texas.

Two of the Houston chefs attending the weekend festivities include Seth Siegel-Gardner (pictured right) and Terrence Gallivan (left) of The Pass and Provisions. These two creative chefs command two separate restaurants in one space: Provisions, a casual eatery featuring pizzas, pastas, and other rustic dishes, and The Pass, an intimate dining experience that features a different tasting menu every day.

Along with Justin Yu of Oxheart and Chris Shepherd of Underbelly, Gallivan and Siegel-Gardner are two of the central players in Houston's recent culinary awakening (we named Provisions one of the best new restaurants of 2012 and featured Pass as the February Pat's Pick).  

We caught up with the Gallivan and Siegel-Gardner to talk about Houston, Austin, and what's to come at The Pass and Provisions. 

Layne Lynch: What will you two be participating in at the Austin Food & Wine Festival?

Terrence Gallivan: We'll be participating in Taste of Texas Kickoff at Republic Square Park on Friday. Right now, we are planning on doing a bone marrow brioche dish that will be served inside the bone with a ramp soup.

LL: Are there any chefs you're looking forward to seeing while you're in town?

Seth Siegel-Gardner: Seeing everyone at the festival will be nice, but drinking with old and new friends [like] Marcus Samuelsson, Chris Shepherd, Ned Elliott, Philip Speer, Sarah Grueneberg, Jodi Elliott, Jamie Zelko, and Josh Watkins will be even better. It's always nice catching up with everyone and talking shit. Talking about what’s going on at each other's restaurants, getting some new ideas, what’s working and what isn’t, talking about collaborations, but mostly just talking shit.

LL: Austin has been gathering a lot of national attention for its culinary scene, but it seems as though Houston is quickly catching up, especially after this year. What do you think Houston can learn from Austin?

TG: Because Houston food scene is seeing so many restaurants and bars from first-time owners, I think the most important thing for us to learn is how to be business-minded. It's nice to learn how first-time owners have succeeded, and how they’ve grown and expanded.

LL: Are there any Austin restaurants or bars you're looking forward to checking out while you're in town?

SSG: We always have to go see Ned Elliott [of Foreign & Domestic].We also really want to hit up Lenoir again and see Todd [Duplechan] and Jessica [Maher]. We also want to check out Ramen Tatsu-Ya and get our ramen fix.

LL: You guys have had a pretty stellar year. What's next for you two and The Pass & Provisions?

TG: Things have been going great, and we feel very fortunate to be where we are and part of this amazing thing that's happening here in Houston. But, we’ve got a lot to learn and a tremendous amount of growth that needs to still happen with the company. A day off would be pretty cool, too.

LL: Both The Pass & Provisions are known for their creative menus. Since this is your first summer at the restaurants, could you give readers a hint at some of the dishes or ingredients you plan to showcase?

 We will have to look at what the local farmers and purveyors have available, of course, but we'll draw from some our past experiences and places we have worked. For instance, we are excited about our lobster roll dish, which is pretty much the epitome of summer. We have a version of it on both menus.

Photograph by Ralph Smith

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Tue April 16, 2013 9:19 am By Layne Lynch

This week was Rebecca Meeker's last at Congress. The former chef de cuisine has left David Bull's restaurant to become a chef and project manager for Larry McGuire's and Tommy Moorman's growing restaurant enterprise.  

"I'm very excited for the opportunity to work with Larry and his team," Meeker told Texas Monthly. "They're extremely creative and I truly admire the work they've done so far." 

Over the past few years, McGuire and Moorman have opened several notable Austin restaurants, including Perla's, Elizabeth Street Cafe, and Lambert's Downtown Barbecue.

Meeker told Texas Monthly that she would be assisting the team in the opening of Jeffrey's as well as improving the overall quality and creativity of their current restaurants. The chef further revealed that she would be working on various unannounced projects. 

"From what I can say, there are some great things to look forward to," Meeker said.  

Meeker isn't the only new addition to the McGuire-Moorman camp. Jen Jackson, who previously worked at Lenior, has taken over the kitchen at Josephine House. Former Josephine chef Libbey Goldberg left the restaurant to spend more time with her daughter. 

Additionally, Grae Nonas, formerly of Son of a Gun and Animal in Los Angeles, has been hired as a pastry sous chef to assist Alex Manley in the bakery programs at both Jeffrey's and Josephine House. Whole Foods Market global cheese buyer Cathy Strange has also joined the Jeffrey's team and will be assisting with the restaurant's cheese cart program. 

No details on the opening day of Jeffrey's yet. Stay tuned for more news in the weeks to come.

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