Fri April 26, 2013 11:04 am By Layne Lynch

This weekend, dozens of well-known chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs will descend upon Austin for the second annual Austin Food & Wine Festival.

To prepare for this weekend's food and wine festivities, Texas Monthly spoke with a few of the local and celebrity chefs from this year's lineup.

Here, Fort Worth chef Tim Love of Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, Woodshed Smokehouse, and the recently opened Queenie's Steakhouse talks grilling demos, opening an Austin restaurant, and why Dallas and Fort Worth deserve more cred.

Layne Lynch: Your grilling demo was my favorite part of the festival last year. How are you going to top it in year two?

Tim Love: We certainly had some fun last year, but as with anything, I always learn and improve. We have some new cuts of meat this year and some new tips. However, we still have the white wine and tequila just like last year.

LL: You seem to be pretty fond of Austin, yet you don't have a restaurant here. Will we see a Tim Love restaurant in Austin in the near future?

TL: I have been looking for the right space in Austin. Everyone here has always been very welcoming to me, and I really enjoy supporting the local community and charities in Austin. Hopefully you will see a Tim Love concept in Austin in the very near future!

LL: Houston and Austin garnered a lot of local and national attention this year for their culinary scenes, but I can't help but feel like Dallas and Fort Worth were left out. Do you feel like Fort Worth and Dallas should get the same credit as Houston and Austin?

TL: I always feel like Fort Worth and Dallas deserve more credit. It is my hometown after all, but as long as people are recognizing all the great stuff that is going on in the state of Texas, it makes me happy. After all, there is a lot of great stuff happening in Texas and sometimes you just have to wait your turn to get the recognition.

LL: Are there any restaurants, bars, bakeries you want to check out while you're in Austin?

TL: There are a lot of places I'll be hanging out.  I get to Austin often, so I tend to hang at some of my haunts: Cocktails at Ranch 616 or Star Bar, food at Sway, Foreign & Domestic, and Barley Swine, just to name a few. I am really looking forward to breaking out my new tailgate truck and grilling some great food for random people on the street throughout the week and weekend.

LL: You've become somewhat of a celebrity chef in recent years, How do you balance being a celebrity and chef at the same time?

TL: I get this question a lot actually. Well, Thursday I was in Austin personally cooking a four-course dinner for the St. David's Foundation. Friday and Saturday I was cooking on the line at my new restaurant Queenie's Steakhouse in Denton, and then I have spent the last two days reorganizing the menu at Woodshed. I just finished writing the menus for the whole football season at TCU. I could go on and on. I don't particularly look at myself as a celebrity but more as cook with a lot to do. I love all my restaurants, guests, and fans, but I still love waking up in the morning trying to figure out some cool, new shit to make.

LL: What's next from you? Can we expect to see a new restaurant, cookbook, or project soon?

TM: I just opened Queenie's Steakhouse three weeks ago, so I am very busy with that. On May 9, I'm hosting the third annual Burgers 4 Babies event at Woodshed to raise money for Fort Worth’s NICU Helping Hands Foundation. I do have a very cool book in the works, and as always, I have some very cool stuff in store for ACL this year.

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Thu April 25, 2013 1:21 pm By Patricia Sharpe

It’s a wonder that any of the contestants of “Citywide 86’d,” a competition inspired by the Food Network show Chopped, managed to boil a teaspoon of water under the crazy conditions they were subjected to. The kitchen of Austin's Uchiko (which co-sponsored the event with its sister restaurant Uchi) was clogged with camera- and iPhone-wielding reporters and bloggers and friends of the cooks, who mostly just got in the way while the competitors raced from stove to counter to sink. Flames leapt, knives flashed, sauté pans sizzled, spoons were flung across cutting boards, and liquid nitrogen steamed.

But somehow the four cooks managed to focus. Just like in Chopped, they were given ingredient baskets filled with various products that seem impossible to meld into a single dish. There were three rounds—appetizer, entrée, and dessert—and after each dish was completed and tasted, one chef was eliminated.

The contestants were Joaquin Ceballas from Sway, Dan Gamoran from La Condesa, Corey Macks from Parkside, and Coliman Uribe from Swift’s Attic. The contest—which had no prize except the fun of competing and satisfaction of winning—was open to all employees of invited restaurants (excluding chefs and sous chefs).

The judges included Paula Disbrowe, cookbook author and travel writer; Jeramie Robison, chef de cuisine at Uchi; Elizabeth Winslow, founder of Farmhouse Delivery and Haymakers; and Jennie Chen, author of the blog misohungry.

At the end of the three rounds—which lasted from 20 to 25 minutes each—the last man standing was Joaquin, from Sway. The next two rounds will take place in May and June. There is talk of the June finals being open to the public.   

The Appetizer Round: Shrimp, blood orange, yukari, kikurage tree fungus 

Joaquin Ceballas from Sway concocted a Thai-inspired shrimp salad while Corey Macks, from Parkside, did blood orange ginger gel and seared shrimp.

Dan Gamoran, from La Condesa, made poached shrimp with a jalapeno and blood orange broth (pictured).

In the end, it was Coliman Uribe, from Switft’s Attic, who was eliminated (after which Paula Disbrowe joked that she heard a door slam and a Moped start up).

 

The Entrée Round: Brats, green garlic, black radish, galangal

Dan poached the brats in a beer broth with the mustard and green garlic and galangal. He then made a sauerkraut of fennel and black radish, and finished the dish with fresh veggies. He used the poaching liquid to create a sauce with Dijon, green garlic, and the galangal.

Joaquin charred the bratwurst, made a sweet, pickled galangal and onion relish, and mixed maltodextrin powder with habanero and carrots in a Thai style fish and palm sugar glaze. 

Corey made a pistachio pesto, grilled the brat, pickled the galangal and garlic, and made a "soil" of some pistachio, but his efforts weren't enough. He lost.

 

The Dessert Round: Chocolate, pistachios, goose eggs, guajillo chile

Joaquin powdered chocolate and guajillo with malto dextrin and pistachio oil. He experimented with a frozen egg custard and added texture by topping the dish with a sprinkle of pistachio.

Dan made a guacolate and guajillo polenta, and served sliced fruit in simple syrup. 

In the end, it was Joaquin of Sway that impresed the judges enough to be sent to the next round of competition. 

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Thu April 25, 2013 11:54 am By Layne Lynch

This weekend, dozens of well-known chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs will descend upon Austin for the second annual Austin Food & Wine Festival.

To prepare for this weekend's food and wine festivities, Texas Monthly spoke with a few of the local and celebrity chefs from this year's lineup.

Here, Paul Qui of East Side King, Top Chef fame, and the yet-to-be-opened restaurant, Qui, discusses his much-anticipated restaurant, traveling across the world, and what Austin chefs inspire him.

Layne Lynch: You've had a whirlwind few months. You've been traveling, making appearances, and opening East Side King on the Drag. Now that Qui is about to open, are you ready to get back in the kitchen for a while? 

Paul Qui: Absolutely! I'm getting restless and can't wait to cook in my new kitchen. My head is about to explode with all the ideas that I want to pursue and develop at Qui. 

LL: The anticipation behind QUI is remarkable. What are some of the surprises we can expect to see when the restaurant opens? 

PQ: There will be no surprises, really. The restaurant is based on the best ingredients and best efforts that my team and I can execute. 

LL: I know you've been eating quite a bit on your travel stops, so I have ask, what cities or restaurants have inspired you most?

PQ: RyuGin and Jiro in Tokyo; Noma in Copenhagen; Dinner [by Heston Blumenthal] in London; Modernist Kitchen in Seattle; Meadowood in Napa; Pujol in Mexico City; Robuchon Atelier and Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie in Paris; Mugaritz, Arzak, and Akelarre in San Sebastian; and many more. All my dishes at Qui will pull inspiration from all my experiences and all my team's experiences.  

LL: You've just recently become quite the celebrity chef. Is it exciting to have people recognize you everywhere you go in Austin, or are there days when you just want to go unnoticed?

PQ: I don't know how to act like a celebrity; all I can do is act like myself and hope people appreciate me and my craft.  

LL: Who are some of the local Austin chefs you admire or draw inspiration from?

PQ: Tyson Cole has been my primary mentor, but I've been inspired and mentored by Shawn Cirkiel, Philip Speer, Andrew Bell, and Deegan McClung throughout the years. I really dig Casey Wilcox's food from Justine's, especially when he gets back from one of his food trips. Rene Ortiz, Laura Sawicki, Egnipont, Ek, Yoshi Okai, [and] Tatsu Aikawa to name a few.  

LL: After Qui opens, what new projects can we expect to see from you? Cookbooks, restaurants, pop-ups, collaborations, ACL and SXSW events?

PQ: Definitely all of the above, but my main focus will be Qui. I'm interested in doing a lot things, but I will get tunnel vision once we open the doors at Qui. My main focus will be the exciting ingredients that we'll be bringing in and how to make them amazing. 

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Mon April 22, 2013 5:03 pm By June Naylor

Denton’s fine-dining category doubled a few days ago when celebrity chef Tim Love opened Queenie's Steakhouse, the city’s first fancy steakhouse, located a block off the courthouse square. Honoring his mama by applying her family nickname to the joint, Love has brought some of his signature dishes and a couple of intriguing new ones to Queenie’s.

Last Friday night we watched an animated crowd pack the 65-seat dining room and 35-seat bar, with more than a few well-dressed patrons table-hopping as they spotted friends here and there. In other words, it looks like Hannah’s, the longtime Denton destination when you wanted a good hanger steak and a glass of fine red, no longer stands alone as the special-occasion place in town.

Queenie’s is only open three days a week (at least for now), and the menu is shorter than those at most Love restaurants. Still, it’s big enough for him to push the envelope. From the section labeled "First," we nabbed the spicy lobster salad, inspired by his travels in the Caribbean. The simple salad is a mingling of chunks of fresh, cool lobster, chopped tomato and onion, minced scotch bonnet chile, and a generous squeeze of lime.

From the "Second" options, we tucked into a dish of ricotta gnocchi dressed in a tomatoey sauce that includes the famous, or possibly infamous, sausage (minced rattlesnake, rabbit and fennel) that is a staple on Love’s menu at Lonesome Dove, located in the Fort Worth Stockyards district. We skipped the monster Wagyu tomahawk steak for two, choosing instead the New York strip, judiciously cloaked in coarse salt and cracked peppercorns and served with a small selection of sauces, including a garlic demi and a cilantro pesto.

We also did a vegetarian course and were wowed by the massive, roasted poblano chile with a filling of diced sweet potato and caramelized red onion and a topping of melted fontina cheese. Sitting atop a pool of corn puree and smooth black beans, it’s not just an afterthought, which is often the case with veggie dishes. A side of roasted hen of the woods and cremini mushrooms added another level of texture and flavor to both steak and chile dishes.

“I’ve always wanted to do a straight-up, quality steakhouse in Denton,” says Love, who was raised in Denton by Margaret “Queenie” Love, who continues to reside there. “The time was finally right. We got a little criticism for doing high-end in a college town, but it looks like it’s working.”

We’re inclined to agree, and are likely to return, Interstate 35 traffic be damned. It’s only 30-ish miles north of Dallas and Fort Worth. Besides, we need to check out his pheasant confit “chop” and that crazy fried whole lobster. If the crowd continues to grow, we’ll just sip martins and dine at the community table in the bar, where a jazz band from nearby UNT plays, like the locals seem to enjoy doing. The setting is quite pleasant, and you’d never guess it had been the location of his Love Shack burger joint. The exterior is wrapped in strips of wood and metal for a contemporary style, and wife Emilie Love warmed up the interior with draperies suspended from thick rails; heavy, soft-leather seating; and small candles (real ones, not the ridiculous LED kind) and plentiful fresh flowers on the tables.

Appetizers range from $6 to $12; main courses are $24 to $58, with the tomahawk for two $85. Bar. 115 E. Hickory, Denton (940-442-6834). Lunch Fri only 11:30–2:30. Dinner Thur–Sat 4:30–midnight. 

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Fri April 19, 2013 11:54 am By Layne Lynch

Last year's Austin Food & Wine Festival featured well-known chefs from all over the country, but this year's talent primarily focuses on chefs from Texas.

Two of the Houston chefs attending the weekend festivities include Seth Siegel-Gardner (pictured right) and Terrence Gallivan (left) of The Pass and Provisions. These two creative chefs command two separate restaurants in one space: Provisions, a casual eatery featuring pizzas, pastas, and other rustic dishes, and The Pass, an intimate dining experience that features a different tasting menu every day.

Along with Justin Yu of Oxheart and Chris Shepherd of Underbelly, Gallivan and Siegel-Gardner are two of the central players in Houston's recent culinary awakening (we named Provisions one of the best new restaurants of 2012 and featured Pass as the February Pat's Pick).  

We caught up with the Gallivan and Siegel-Gardner to talk about Houston, Austin, and what's to come at The Pass and Provisions. 

Layne Lynch: What will you two be participating in at the Austin Food & Wine Festival?

Terrence Gallivan: We'll be participating in Taste of Texas Kickoff at Republic Square Park on Friday. Right now, we are planning on doing a bone marrow brioche dish that will be served inside the bone with a ramp soup.

LL: Are there any chefs you're looking forward to seeing while you're in town?

Seth Siegel-Gardner: Seeing everyone at the festival will be nice, but drinking with old and new friends [like] Marcus Samuelsson, Chris Shepherd, Ned Elliott, Philip Speer, Sarah Grueneberg, Jodi Elliott, Jamie Zelko, and Josh Watkins will be even better. It's always nice catching up with everyone and talking shit. Talking about what’s going on at each other's restaurants, getting some new ideas, what’s working and what isn’t, talking about collaborations, but mostly just talking shit.

LL: Austin has been gathering a lot of national attention for its culinary scene, but it seems as though Houston is quickly catching up, especially after this year. What do you think Houston can learn from Austin?

TG: Because Houston food scene is seeing so many restaurants and bars from first-time owners, I think the most important thing for us to learn is how to be business-minded. It's nice to learn how first-time owners have succeeded, and how they’ve grown and expanded.

LL: Are there any Austin restaurants or bars you're looking forward to checking out while you're in town?

SSG: We always have to go see Ned Elliott [of Foreign & Domestic].We also really want to hit up Lenoir again and see Todd [Duplechan] and Jessica [Maher]. We also want to check out Ramen Tatsu-Ya and get our ramen fix.

LL: You guys have had a pretty stellar year. What's next for you two and The Pass & Provisions?

TG: Things have been going great, and we feel very fortunate to be where we are and part of this amazing thing that's happening here in Houston. But, we’ve got a lot to learn and a tremendous amount of growth that needs to still happen with the company. A day off would be pretty cool, too.

LL: Both The Pass & Provisions are known for their creative menus. Since this is your first summer at the restaurants, could you give readers a hint at some of the dishes or ingredients you plan to showcase?

 We will have to look at what the local farmers and purveyors have available, of course, but we'll draw from some our past experiences and places we have worked. For instance, we are excited about our lobster roll dish, which is pretty much the epitome of summer. We have a version of it on both menus.

Photograph by Ralph Smith

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