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John Mueller was the heir to one of the great Texas barbecue dynasties. Aaron Franklin was an unknown kid from College Station who worked his counter. John had it all and then threw it all away. Aaron came out of nowhere to create the state’s most coveted brisket. Then John rose from the ashes.
Airy breads with sweet or savory fillings, kolaches are the Czechs’ best-known contribution to Texas cooking. We show how to make them with three different fillings.