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BANGKOK CITY

4503 Greenville Ave, at Yale Blvd (214-691-8233)
Open Mon-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat & Sun noon-10.
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$-$$

Dallas

Asian

(From December 2009) Long a fixture in East Dallas, this kitschy, decor-challenged restaurant still rakes in the diners. Which is no surprise, considering the fresh imperial rolls bursting with shrimp and vegetables, the piquant tom ka gai soup with chicken and mushrooms, and the smooth red curry with beef (not too spicy). Sticky rice with fresh mango makes a refreshing dessert.

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BEDFORD

1001 Studewood (713-880-1001)
Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Brunch Sun 11-2:30.
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$$$

Houston

Asian /
Mediterranean

 

(From April 2009) Robert Gadsby’s new, Mediterranean/Asian enterprise (following his fling with Orient-oriented dining at Soma) rates high on the imagination scale. Witness a so-called wild mushroom risotto—made with Texmati rice—with wafer-thin slices of grape and a Thai red curry sauce. Or the lamb osso buco, a huge chunk of quite tender meat, with caramelized “melting” onions, braised fennel, and a pomegranate seed garnish. Or a butternut squash “cappuccino” soup topped with a little salad of celery, apple, and granola. If you’re sensitive to noise, ask for a table away from the bar crowd. The artful, contemporary space, with tall plate-glass windows, is quite “live.” The “chef’s table,” the bar in front of the open kitchen, is much less intimidating than most such venues. Bar.

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BENGAL COAST

The Centrum, Cedar Springs at Welborn (214-521-8600)
Open Sun–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11.
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$$–$$$

Dallas

Asian /
Indian

 

(From September 2008) Done in the warm hues of a spice market, this upscale addition to the Turtle Creek neighborhood offers dishes that celebrate what it calls “the other Asia”—India, Thailand, Indonesia, and Malaysia. Basically it’s a “best of” sampling geared to the Western palate. A platter of crisp samosas included one with chicken, arugula, and garam masala; a Thai-inspired version with lobster, kaffir lime, and curry; and one with pork and red chile. Indonesian short ribs blended tender beef and vegetables with lemongrass and coriander—stew with a different point of view. Bar.

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CAFE GINGER

1952 W. Gray (713-528-4288)
Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Reservations recommended.
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$$-$$$

Houston

Asian

 

(From December 2009) Jadeite has changed owners and name but remains in the family and retains its flamboyant Asian-Vegas decor, including that glistening red-ball sculpture in the middle of the room. From the familiar menu we sampled a fine hot-and-sour soup and a too-bland vegetable-pumpkin bisque, but we most enjoyed our seafood (tilapia, scallops, shrimp, crab) in a not-so-spicy coconut sauce. New additions include a sushi bar and teriyaki dishes. Bar.

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FIVE SIXTY

300 Reunion Blvd (214-741-5560)
Dinner Tue–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Brunch Sun 11:30–2:30. Closed Mon.
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$$$–$$$$

Dallas

Asian

 

(From July 2009) Sleekly remodeled and still rotating 560 feet in the air, the restaurant atop Reunion Tower has its groove back, thanks to America’s favorite chef-inator, Wolfgang Puck. An Asian-influenced menu is handled with aplomb by Puck alum Sara Johannes, formerly with 20.21, in Minneapolis. Her grilled lamb chops are beautifully pink within and come sided with deliciously mushy Hunan-style eggplant dabbed with a chile-mint vinaigrette. Wild striped bass is accented with an Indonesian-inflected pineapple-and-chile sambal. Pastry chef Isla Vargas corrals the eclectic sweets, like a bittersweet-chocolate soufflé lavished with both chocolate-whiskey ganache and nutty gianduja gelato. Bar.

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FREDERICK’S

7701 Broadway (enter parking lot from Nottingham) (210-828-9050)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30–2. Dinner Mon–Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun. Reservations suggested weekends.
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$$

San Antonio

French /
Asian

 

(From June 2009) For a refined yet congenial setting, there’s no place in San Antonio quite like Frederick’s. It’s not that the restaurant bans the under-thirty set, per se, but those who enjoy dining to a thumping backbeat may feel deprived here. French cuisine touched with Asian flavors (such as pork ribs with spiced soy sauce) takes up most of the seafood-heavy menu. We started with a creamy crab cake and flavorful oysters casino with bacon and peppers. Sea bass with shiitake mushrooms and artichoke hearts showed off an adroit blend of flavors, while the moist halibut with tomato coulis, risotto, and tender mussels was nigh perfect. Bar.

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FREDERICK’S BISTRO

14439 NW Military Dr, at Huebner Rd (210-888-1500)
Lunch Mon-Fri 11–2:30. Dinner Mon–Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9.
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$$$

San Antonio

Asian /
French

 

(From December 2009) There’s a distinct air of neighborhood hangout around the bar—probably because owner-chef Frederick Costa knows just how to deliver the seafood, steaks, and service to please his clientele. A gener-ous happy hour cheese platter kept our table of four happy till we dined on gazpacho andaluz with crabmeat (it tasted straight out of an Almodóvar movie), then shared several crisp, airy pizzas (shredded duck and shiitake, prosciutto and arugula). Heartier options include pork shank osso buco and beef tenderloin bordelaise. Bar.

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GREEN PAPAYA

4455 S. Padre Island Dr (361-851-0644)
Lunch Mon–Sat 11–3. Dinner Mon–Thur 5–9, Fri & Sat 5–10. Closed Sun.
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$–$$

Corpus Christi

Asian

 

(From December 2009) Constantly upgrading their menu, service, and decor, Henry and Kathy Ngo have turned this nondescript spot into a jewel. Outstanding is their platter-size rice-flour crepe stuffed with shrimp, chicken, and bean sprouts. Equally delightful was a blackboard special of honey walnut shrimp, the shellfish lightly crusted and flash-fried, then served with walnuts in a honey-based glaze. Also notable: sweet potato flan (more the texture of a pudding than the silky Mexican dessert) complemented by a coconut milk–tapioca sauce. Beer & wine.

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KENOBI

10000 Research Blvd (512-241-0119)
Open Mon 11–10, Tue–Thur 11–11, Fri 11–midnight, Sat noon–midnight, Sun 5–10.
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$$$

Austin

Asian /
Sushi

 

(From March 2009) Sleek Oriental design greets patrons at the entrance of this Arboretum sushi haunt. Kenobi’s menu reflects the latest in (often costly) Asian food trends: Kobe beef cooked on a tableside hibachi and wild specialty rolls, to name two. The latter can get a bit ornate; the Lickety Split contains eleven ingredients, including at least four kinds of raw fish. Believers in “less is more” should look elsewhere. Even so, in some instances, such as a sesame scallop appetizer in which the shellfish has been tempura-battered and pan-sautéed with Japanese spices, the complexity works. Kenobi earns points for adventurous entrées as well—shaved ribeye steak wrapped around avocado and Japanese yams, anyone? Bar.

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LITTLE KATANA

4527 Travis at Knox (214-443-9600)
Open Mon–Thur 11–2:30 & 5–10, Fri 11–2:30 & 5–11, Sat 11–11, Sun 4–10.
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$$-$$$

Dallas

Asian

 

(From August 2009) Whether you choose the sushi bar or one of the tables in this narrow, rather rustic space, you’ll get a fine meal. We chose grilled salmon in a light Indian curry sauce; the unadvertised heat was of the sinus-clearing variety. For our next visit, we’ve got our eye on the grilled sirloin bento box (more like a suitcase), with miso soup, a California roll, a small salad with mango-lime dressing, and fragrant rice. Speaking of mango, the mango cheesecake is the only way to go for dessert. Beer, wine, & sake.

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