More cheerful and informal than Bruce Auden’s downtown chapel of gastronomy, Biga on the Banks, the Kitchen shows the maestro in his relaxed, unbuttoned mode, where casual excellence ensures a steady stream of customers. Our fine Scotch egg (a hard-boiled egg coated with sausage and breading, then fried, served with jalapeño aioli) competed with a bountiful plate of toast and sautéed wild mushrooms for appetizer honors (it was a stand-off), while a gloriously light salmon filet, served on a crisply crusted bed of polenta, outshone the heavy and, we thought, heavy-handed lamb stroganoff. Even the old stand-by, lemon meringue pie, assumes new life here: its lemon curd is tart and intense, its billowing meringue thick and sweet, and its flavor reflecting a bit of brown sugar. Bar.
Leave a Review
TRINITY HALL
Mockingbird Station, 5321 E. Mockingbird at Central Expy (U.S. Hwy 75) (214-887-3600) Open Mon-Wed 11 a.m.-midnight, Thur 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Fri 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat 8 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun 8 a.m.-midnight. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | add your review
If ever the word “collegial” applied to a restaurant, it’s this one, featuring dark woods, TV sets broadcasting international soccer games, and an eight-page menu devoted to lagers, ales, and beers (even gluten-free ones). We were quite surprised with the sophistication of our entrée: two gigantic braised pork shanks glistening with a swath of shiitake demi-glace and perched on a bed of orzo. Irish Cream Bash Pie (go figure) looked as dense as a brick, but its Irish cream mousse filling, held in place by a chocolate cookie crumb crust, was ethereal. Bar.
My Library
