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(From October 2008) In a bare-bones storefront tucked behind a service station at the crossroads of Montrose and West­heimer, personable owner/waiter Brooks Bassler serves up Cajun favorites at all hours. His fine seafood gumbo was actually upstaged by (surprise!) a peppy vegetable bisque. Crusty, bursting-at-the-seams po’boys (roast beef, oysters, shrimp) had us vowing to try more NOLA standards, like grillades and grits. Not to mention Abita beer and Barq’s root beer. Beer, wine, & daiquiris.

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(From December 2008) Oilcloth and rolls of paper towels on the tables let us know right off that this wouldn’t be country club Cajun. We shared a whopping platter of fried blue crabs and sprightly hushpuppies, then went on to grilled shrimp and oysters seasoned to within an inch of their lives. The crawfish étouffée would have made any cook in Lafayette proud. Beer & wine.

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(From August 2009) Boudro’s calls to us with its umbrellas and great riverside seating. But it seems to be suffering from an extended case of the blahs. The baby back ribs, though tender, were barely flavorful, and a glutinous sauce and bland potato salad didn’t help. The coconut shrimp seemed awfully pricey for the number on the plate, though we do like that jícama slaw. Still, one entrée of three was really good: tender grilled flank steak served on a bed of greens. At least the fuchsia cactus fruit margaritas never fail. Bar.

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(From April 2009) Taken out of its natural environment, New Orleans food often lacks the fresh bite typical of Creole and Cajun cuisine. This relocated restaurant (formerly Bourbon Street Café, in Castle Hills) proves the exception. Two standards—the chicken-and-sausage jambalaya and the crawfish-and-shrimp étouffée—have an unmistakable authenticity about them: carefully prepared fish and fowl, a rich roux for the étouffée, a fine balance of fresh peppers, celery, and onion for the jambalaya. Competent service and a quiet dining room. Bar.

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(From May 2009) For a great Southern meal (and perhaps a paranormal experience or two), step into this lovely 1895 Victorian home on Water Street. Lightly battered fried dill pickles with homemade ranch will prepare you for the Cajun-leaning menu. We tried the blackened catfish filet, topped with creole sauce and served with black-eyed peas and hushpuppies. A friendly spirit suggested we order the fried ice cream for dessert: a dip of cinnamon rolled in graham cracker crumbs, fried, and topped with hot fudge and whipped cream. After dinner, have a look around the place—if you dare.

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(From November 2009) This New Orleans–style restaurant offers great food and excellent service, despite the crowds. The oysters were magnificent, as was the Daddy’s platter, which comes with a pound of boiled shrimp, two pounds of boiled crawfish, and one pound of sausage, with sides of corn and potatoes. We also ordered a side of fried okra, because we had eyes bigger than our stomachs. Bar.

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(From March 2009) We have been assured by genuine Cajuns that Dudley’s, a Longview spot that has specialized in seafood for the past sixteen years, is the real thing. We heartily concur after indulging in spicy étouffée, fried crawfish, and fresh, peppery coleslaw on a recent visit to the homey, lively diner. Beer & wine.

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(From October 2009) The concept is simple: Mix up a big pot of seductively dark and murky gumbo and let patrons decide if they want the Little Daddy (a generous serving) or Big Daddy (just shy of intimidating) and whether to add seafood, chicken and sausage, beef, or a combination thereof. If gumbo’s not your thing, there’s plenty of crab claws, oysters, po’boys, and more. Beer & wine.

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(From May 2009) The famed musical venue has successfully planted itself in Houston. Floor-to-ceiling folk art pays homage to the blues, while great music plays at a tolerable level—and the food is pretty good too. From the Southern-inspired menu, our favorite choices were awesome sweet potato fries and an earthy gumbo with smoked turkey and shrimp. Also noteworthy was the signature “Voodoo shrimp” with sweet rosemary cornbread. On the other hand, the pizza was standard, the pulled pork a tad chewy, and the nicely seasoned grilled salmon much better than its bed of so-so jambalaya “risotto.” Bar.

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(From November 2008) Living among folks skilled in Louisiana’s culinary magic is one of the perks of calling Houston home, and luckily several hold forth in the kitchen of this Galleria-area restaurant. A bountiful platter of fried green tomatoes with lemon-butter-caper sauce and lump crab left us swooning and all but stuffed, but we still managed to split a delicious filet of blackened redfish topped with rich Pontchartrain sauce. High ceilings and handsome photographs give the place a sleek look, but the clientele remains resolutely casual (and loud). Bar.

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