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AUSTIN’S—THE RESTAURANT AT ROSE HILL MANOR

2614 Upper Albert Rd
(830-644-2247)
Dinner Wed-Sun 6-8:30. Closed Mon & Tue. Reservations recommended.
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$$-$$$

Stonewall

Continental

(From March 2011) When the world is too much with us, we make our way to the manor. The leisurely prix fixe dinner does wonders to soothe the soul. The menu changes weekly but the offerings are always delectable, from the amuse-bouche to the final sweet bite. Recent offerings included winter vegetable soup with house-made pork-and-duck pâté, chive crepes stuffed with braised ribeye and sauced with brandy-truffle cream, and white chocolate–amaretto cheesecake with blackberry coulis (we strongly urge you to choose the special entrée rather than substitute the crab cake or filet mignon). Bar

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BIN 555

Artisans Alley, northeast rear corner, 555 W. Bitters Rd
(210-496-0555)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11, Sun 11-9.
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$$$

San Antonio

Continental

 

(From January 2012)

Just what many have always wanted: a menu studded with dishes small enough that three or four make a meal. That oft-changing menu may include a dish of assorted olives with Marcona almonds, butter-poached shrimp with Thai curry, a single seared diver scallop with uni butter, or tea-smoked duck with a sauce of hoisin and sriracha, a combination as exotic and excellent as it sounds. Flit from one taste to another as you probe the menu—rarely will you be disappointed by the creative, sometimes even sly offerings. The dark dining room and minimal decor are hardly cheerful, but obliging and responsive servers set an upbeat tone. Bar.

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BISTRO N

Nordstrom, 3rd floor, NorthPark Center, Northwest Hwy (Loop 12) at Central Expy (U.S. 75)
(214-231-3810)
Open Mon–Thur 10–10, Fri & Sat 10–11, Sun noon–8.
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$$

Dallas

Continental

 

(From March 2011) This oasis of calm in Nordstrom is a refuge from the hustle and bustle of the food court. A goat cheese quiche sided with tangy arugula salad and roasted asparagus was all we needed to lift our sagging energy. Our companion’s crispy calamari appetizer arrived in a paper cone with dipping sauce on the side, and our small diners broadened their horizons with profiteroles stuffed with ice cream and a small pitcher of lus-cious chocolate sauce. Bar.

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COCHINEAL

109 W. San Antonio (U.S. 90)
(432-729-3300)
Breakfast Thur-Sun 8:30-1. Dinner 7 nights 6-10.
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$$-$$$

Marfa

Continental /
Eclectic

 

(From June 2011) Power menu meets power diners in an über-Marfa-cool space. Recent temptations included our favorite, the grilled rack of lamb, served on giant white beans with a leek-and-potato terrine, delectable in both flavor and presentation. This time we picked a bold fettuccine with asparagus, cannellini beans, and spicy chile flakes. With creamy, lemony mashers and braised brussels sprouts, the hickory-grilled swordfish proved as satisfying but without the fireworks. Cheers for the clever appetizer of peppery shrimp, bacon, grits, and a poached egg and for the dessert of bread pudding splashed with rum—spoons for all! Beer & wine.

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CRUMPETS

3920 Harry Wurzbach Rd, at Oakwell Court
(210-821-5454)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2:30, Sat 11–3. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11, Sun 5–9. Brunch Sun 11–3.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | My Library add to library | add your review

$$-$$$

San Antonio

Eclectic /
Continental

 

(From June 2011) This venerable north-east-sider offers plenty of specialties in the French idiom, but at the moment, the prix fixe dinners stand out for both value and accomplishment. Among the offerings are appetizers of smoked salmon (served with capers, toast, and crackers) and silky truffled pâté, itself worth a visit. Both the beef Wellington and the rack of lamb proved to be tender, flavorful standouts, especially if you skip the mint jelly with the latter and ask for the port sauce in-stead. Crumpets, with its big, high-ceilinged dining room looking out over a bosky glade, is enjoying a high point. If you haven’t been in several years, this would be the time to try it again. Bar.

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GRAVITAS

807 Taft
(713-522-0995)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30–11:30, Sun 5:30–9:30. Brunch Sun 11–3.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | My Library add to library | add your review

$$-$$$$

Houston

American /
Continental

 

(From October 2010) Now a Fourth Ward veteran rather than the new kid on the block, Scott Tycer’s bistro, a handsome, industrial redo, can still be counted on for honest, inventive dishes full of fresh ingredients. The signa-ture rustic bread, served as soon as we sat down, set the tone for our meal. Chipotle chiles gave an interesting edge to gazpacho, but the clear no-meat winner was the delectable onion bread pudding, light and custardy within, encased in leek greens. Scallops, crusty outside and moist throughout, could not have been better. Bar.

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LAMACHE’S

124 W. Austin
(903-665-6177)
Open Wed & Thur 5–8, Fri & Sat 5–9, Sun 11–8. Closed Mon & Tue. Reservations recommended weekends.
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$-$$$

Jefferson

Continental

 

(From October 2010) We found ourselves at the historic Jefferson Hotel for a weekend getaway and were thrilled to dine at one of our favorite little Texas-Italian spots. We started with a guilty pleasure: crostini adorned with a luscious mix of shrimp, artichokes, cheese, and prosciutto. We kept the artichoke theme alive with the Tuscany Shrimp, tossed with mushrooms and a light white wine cream sauce over linguine. An evening at this romantic restaurant would not be complete without the tiramisu, which did not disappoint (though we did covet our companion’s warm bread pudding). Bar.

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SAPRISTI

2418 Forest Park Blvd
(817-924-7231)
Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–9, Fri & Sat 5:30–10. Brunch Sun 10:30–2. Closed Mon.
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$$

Fort Worth

Continental /
American

 

(From February 2012)

The minute you walk in the door of this TCU neighborhood favorite you’ll be hit by the garlicky, buttery aroma of steamed mussels. If you can look past those, you’ll find many interesting dishes, like a comforting linguine with a light tomato sauce, spinach, and Parmesan and a spicy orecchiette with Italian sausage, fennel, and tomatoes. More-ambitious entrée choices include ruby trout, roasted duck, rack of lamb, and grilled ribeye. Beer & wine.

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SO7 BISTRO

2401 W. 7th
(817-878-4311)
Open Mon–Sat 11–2 & 5:30–10. Brunch Sat 11–3.
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$$

Fort Worth

French /
Continental

 

(From May 2011) The French fare in this new space is remarkably well handled by chef Alessio Franceschetti. Dine on the likes of coq au vin and frites downstairs or head up to the lounge for cocktails and appetizers. We started with an exquisite Brie and mushroom soup, followed by the So7 Bistro salad: spinach, feta cheese, beets, and a raspberry vinai-grette. Our entrées included sautéed veal liver with caramelized onions, veal scallopini with lots of capers and a lemon-butter sauce, and a braised lamb shank so good that only the bone was left at the end of the meal. Bar.

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SPINDLETOP STEAKHOUSE

290 Crockett, Beaumont
(409-833-2433)
Open Mon 11–3, Tue–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Closed Sun.
map | latest review | access ++ | My Library add to library | add your review

$$–$$$

Beaumont

Steaks /
Continental

 

(From January 2011) This entertainment complex eatery lacks the clubby ambience that goes so well with red meat and red wine. But it makes up for it with juicy house-cut steaks perfectly cooked to order, plus sides like decadent mac and cheese and fresh sautéed spinach. We recommend the sirloin strip straight up or the filet served atop a mound of mashers studded with Gorgonzola. And though the pan-seared salmon is delightful, it’s all about the cow here. Bar.

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