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(From May 2009) For almost a quarter of a century, Aldo’s has been quietly serving up meals in a setting that feels like an upscale home, with comfortable chairs, wood-paneled walls, and picture windows. Italy inspires the menu, but the execution is American. Among the appetizers, the lean carpaccio with shaved Parmesan on arugula impressed us, as did the rich scampi Valentino, huge shrimp with a basil-laced cream sauce. Our main courses included a similarly rich capellini with crabmeat and Alfredo sauce and a marinated broiled trout (a bit dry when we had it) imaginatively served with asparagus, grilled red pepper, and sautéed eggplant. Don’t look here for Italian authenticity, but do expect to be pampered in style. Bar.

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(From November 2008) If you find yourself hungry in North Austin, ditch the Domain and settle in at this unpretentious strip-mall spot for some excellent Italian food. All the frills you need are sprinkled throughout the menu. We were bowled over by the pillowlike gnocchi bathed in a decadent fontina béchamel. The fettuccine was sublime in a hearty tomato and Italian sausage ragù, and the rosemary veal sang with a bright lemon butter sauce. The tiramisù was above average, but the star of the dessert menu was the white-chocolate cheesecake. Beer & wine.

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(From November 2008) Silver-haired chef-owner Andrea Pintus (formerly of Patrenella’s) lovingly rules over his new far-west strip-center domain, a spacious spot softened by arches and faux-marble columns. Tasty involtini—thin-sliced fried eggplant wrapped into rolls with ham, salami, and provolone—got us off to a protein-packed start. Even more impressive were the generous entrées: ravioli stuffed with veal, sage, and Parmesan and house-made gnocchi with a mellow Gorgonzola sauce. We expect to be regulars here. Beer & wine.

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(From November 2008) This handsome restaurant is rich in marble, wrought iron, and modern art, but it’s the authentic Sardinian cuisine that is its masterpiece. The menu offers some unique dishes that distinguish it from other fine Italian restaurants, like creamy risotto al nero with plump grilled prawns and scaloppine di vitello with wild mushrooms and fresh rosemary. A generous serving of clams and mussels in a garlicky broth could not have been more pure and straightforward. Bar.

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(From July 2009) This quaint neighborhood cafe and wine shop serves up wood-fired pizzas, excellent antipasti, and made-to-order sandwiches. We enjoyed the Joanna pizza, a white version sporting pesto, spinach, tomato, and feta, and the caprese sandwich: layers of fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, and basil topped with house-made Italian dressing. Bonus: Friendly servers will open and pour any wine on the shelves. Beer & wine.

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(From October 2009) Austin’s historic Hyde Park neighborhood attracts young families, University of Texas students, and stalwart old-timers who’ve been around since way before the area became hip. Asti takes care of all comers. The slender, contemporary space has a bit of a classy-diner feel, with its red-topped tables and stainless-steel accents, but soft, sheer curtains lessen the edgy effect. Changing with the seasons, the menu might surprise you, for example with a starter of house-made mozzarella and roasted sweet peppers along with mixed greens tossed with bits of Bartlett pear and shallot dressing. Seafood is a good direction for an entrée: On one visit seared scallops took a homey turn, surrounded by tomatoes braised with pancetta, and on the next, their flavor popped with a truffled Meyer lemon relish. But the needs of meat eaters are never ignored; those of a carnivorous bent can expect the likes of pink duck breast in an irresistible fig mostarda (a condiment with a subtle nip) sided by lovely soft white polenta. By the meal’s end, if you have a bit of room, go for something simple like cinnamon-dusted beignets and an affogato (vanilla bean gelato with a shot of espresso poured over it).

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(From August 2009) Al and Olga Paez opened this Ridglea spot 26 years ago, and now their son Derrick, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, is doing appealing fare from central Italy. From a menu divided into “modern” and “classic,” we chose from the latter: Short rib lasagne featured layers of pasta and herbed ricotta moistened with an extraordinary beef reduction, while ricotta tortellini with roasted pork loin and English peas prompted a wish for a large spoon (a straw, maybe?) so we could capture every last smidgen of the Parmesan cream sauce. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Not just another red-sauce joint, this cozy, country-style Italian restaurant from the folks at Billie Gene’s boasts a modest, well-considered menu. Antipasti and house-made soups are seasonal and tasty, and pastas arrive judiciously sauced and properly al dente. But the grill is where chef Dave Waide really shines; the Italian ribeye with a mushroom demi-glace was fork-tender, expertly cooked, and a bargain at $18.99. Depending on the season, enjoy the multilevel terrace overlooking the Guadalupe or the stone fireplace inside. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2009) We bypassed the tried-and-true menu at this upscale spot and ventured into nightly-specials territory. Salmon came delicately crusted with almonds and accompanied by a lovely mustard sauce, while trout was stuffed with crab and shrimp and served with a light marinara cream sauce. Friendly and attentive service capped off a perfect evening. Bar.

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(From January 2009) No longer does ambience trump food at the lobby restaurant of the grand Hotel Galvez, which first opened its doors in 1911. Our cumin-infused Indian slaw arrived topped with two perfectly grilled jumbo shrimp while our companion’s delicately flavored crab salad came wrapped in ribbons of cucumber. Both revealed a deft hand in the kitchen, but it was the New-Fashioned Chicken Soup—fresh julienne vegetables, slivers of chicken breast, and crisp rice noodles—that received the highest accolades. Bravo. Bar.

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