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(From September 2010) Black and white photos of Beirut grace the walls of this small, utilitarian Mediterranean eatery (look for the rust-colored freestanding building), where there are plenty of stars on the menu. Hummus and tabbouleh were exemplary; fried falafel and sautéed squash stuffed (how did they do that?) with tomatoes, sirloin, and rice were outstanding; and sides of roasted cauliflower, rice with pine nuts, and baby okra were delightful tidbits.

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(From May 2011) The Schiller–Del Grande folks have done it again—created an übercool space and a menu to match. Of the long list of small plates, we chose spicy coppa and taleggio with dried mission figs and a fennel salad; a densely flavored Provençal tomato soup with basil citrus pesto; and the Ava/Alto salad—greens, beets, chickpeas, and artichokes. Of the large plates, a grilled quail with sweet peppers and creamy polenta and a lively pappardelle with duck and wild mushrooms outshone a less interesting flattened chicken breast with salsa and almonds. Service is still a bit confused but well intentioned. Bar.

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(From November 2011)

The cavelike space once inhabited by Dolores del Rio has a new tenant, an appealing and imaginative Mediterranean restaurant that seems to do almost everything well. The noise can be a little high and the tables are closely packed, but the kitchen can turn out such dishes as fresh, tangy asparagus soup with yogurt, Eggplant Josephine (crisp eggplant, shrimp, cheese, and hollandaise), and a Barcelona-worthy paella full of shrimp, chicken, mussels, peas, and clams. Service was tentative and lacking in polish, but, to be fair, we were there in the restaurant’s early days. We will certainly be back. Beer & wine. 

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(From October 2010) In this handsome neighborhood bistro, chef-owner Louise Lamensdorf promises to put “Paris on your plate.” We found the midweek specials do that very thing—and at a bargain too. Select bottles of wine are half off, and featured appetizers, entrées, and desserts are listed at reduced prices. We particularly enjoyed the very special crab cake, which came plated with the house salad, featuring red grapes and black sesame seeds. Perfect summer fare, with calories left over to enjoy crème brûlée topped with a dollop of chocolate mousse.

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(From June 2011) It was a pleasant task: introducing a teenage would-be foodie to the small-plates concept at this Spanish-inspired eatery on Washing-ton’s restaurant row. Impressed with the brick arches and long wall of wines, she readily proclaimed the pork belly with cane syrup her fa-vorite dish on first bite. Ditto for the crispy crab croquettes and local Pola cheeses with tangerine marmalade and Marcona almonds. Alas, we downgraded the seared foie gras for its mass of membranes, but competed for bites of a shared Mexican chocolate crème brûlée. Next lesson: street food. Bar.

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(From October 2010) This undervisited, underappreciated (but very cool) restaurant, featuring Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare, offers an uncrowded and slightly exotic spot for a downtown dinner. The long, narrow room flanks the quirkily elegant Hotel Havana and looks right down on the River Walk. The fish kebab remains our favorite entrée, chunks of salmon jazzed with lemon and saffron. Also enticing is the sabzi polo mahi: basmati rice blanketed with smoked salmon, herbs, spinach, garlic, and onion. Groups of three or more might sample the cold platter appetizer with tabbouleh, hummus, and various salads. Service can be brisk or relaxed, as you wish. Bar.

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(From June 2011)

A Saturday afternoon visit to this downtown spot found plenty of lunch and brunch options. We went with the popular turkey-jalapeño sandwich and the Kobe Benedict. The panino did not disappoint, with its warm sliced turkey, caramelized onions, cheese, avocado, and crisp bacon, but the winner at our table was definitely the Benedict: The eggs were perfectly cooked, and the ground meat had a rich beefiness that worked well with the spicy green-chile-white-wine sauce. Crush has, of course, an almost overwhelming selection of wines, and brews are a specialty too. Quiz your servers, who are knowledgeable about the libations and generous with the samples.

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(From June 2011)

There’s a new chef from across the Trinity River: Dan Landsberg, formerly of Tillman’s, has brought a New American approach to Dragonfly’s menu, which has resulted in some lovely dishes. Crusted with thyme leaves and minced garlic, our Bay of Fundy salmon was cooked to perfection and plated with toasted orzo and baby spinach. Dessert of a small chocolate bundt cake filled with peanut butter mousse and drizzled with fudge sauce and crushed peanuts was top of the world. We like the new, more serene black and white decor and the lovely cluster of pendant lighting in the center of the room. The bar scene is as lively as always. Bar.

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(From November 2011)

There aren’t many places where a server mixes the guacamole at your table, lets you taste it, then adds whatever you like. But that’s just one of several appealing touches at this northeast side newcomer. Mexican with a bit of Mediterranean sets the tone; main courses include grilled chicken on “hominy polenta” and moist salmon with grilled red peppers, squash, asparagus, and mushrooms. Even the table salsa stood out, with its strong tomato flavor and just a touch of peppery bite. Though Encanto is big, clean, bright, and casual, there is not much atmosphere, thanks in part to the three TVs over the bar. Bar.

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(From November 2011)

Languid evenings lounging on the patio warrant a round of small plates: Fattoush, a meld of cucumber, tomato, toasted pita crumbs, and copious feta crumbles, is the last taste of summer; fried anchovy-stuffed olives powdered in sharp paprika whet the appetite; grilled baby octopus tastes like a Mediterranean vacation. All pair with the ingredient-intense cocktails that seem de rigueur nowadays. We learned all about genever and hope that bacon bourbon is just a phase for mixologist Josh Loving. Bar. 

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