To browse restaurants by city, pick from the pull-down menu at left under the Find a Restaurant tab.
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100% TAQUITO
3245 Southwest Fwy (U.S. 59) (713-665-2900) Open Sun-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$-$$ |
Houston
| Mexican |
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(From July 2008) There’s nothing quite like the authentic food and icy cervezas served from the trailers and stalls that line the streets of Mexico City, but we played a good game of pretend at this Southwest Freeway storefront. Its taco-stand facade set the mood for our small flour-tortilla tacos—one each of fajita, spicy chipotle brisket, and chicken mole. The chipotle mix (tinga) also starred in miniature masa “pies” (sopes), along with black beans, onions, and cheese. Tres leches cake rounded out a satisfying, if imaginary, trip south. Beer & margaritas.
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610 GRILLE
Ashton Hotel, 610 Main (817-332-0100) Open Sun-Thur 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat 6:30-10. map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$$ |
Fort Worth
| American / Mexican |
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(From April 2009) A recent renovation has resulted in a quieter and warmer dining space off the lobby of the Ashton Hotel, and chef Ismael Rojas has designed the menu with Southwestern palates in mind. The Tlalpan Salad (named for a district in Mexico City) featured assorted greens, toasted pistachios, and sliced cucumber tossed in a chipotle vinaigrette, while the grilled fourteen-ounce ribeye came with whipped Yukon potatoes, baby carrots, a poblano with corn sauce, and a topping of fried onions. The experienced and knowledgeable servers are a real asset. Bar.
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AMORCITO’S MEXICAN COCINA Y CANTINA
2318 NW Loop 1604 (210-493-2204) Open Mon–Thur 7 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7–11, Sun 7–9. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
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San Antonio
| Mexican / Tex-Mex |
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(From December 2009) The venue is somewhat sombrero viejo—faux hacienda, brick walls and arches—but the food is anything but. Amorcito’s is a Houston immigrant to 1604, with a big, bold menu and a kitchen whose Mexican and Tex-Mex beat the clichés. Start with the fresh and bright ceviche, with incendiary, vinegary Valentina sauce (like a thickish Tabasco) on the side. Follow with any number of big plates; the adobo fish tacos were exceptionally good, with a butter-lemon sauce and shredded cabbage. Plump mole enchiladas had tender chicken and a sprinkle of sesame seeds.
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APACHE MEXICAN CUISINE
511 20th (409-765-5646) Open Sun–Wed 8–2, Thur & Fri 8–2 & 5–8, Sat 8–8. map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$-$$ |
Galveston
| Tex-Mex / Mexican |
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(From September 2009) This congenial place works a smoky magic with refried beans and does a straight-up job with Tex-Mex in general. But what keeps us coming back are the muy rico chiles rellenos and the enchiladas Veronica: tender chicken enchiladas bathed in a luscious tomatillo sauce and topped with delicate white cheese. On nights when there’s a performance around the corner at the Grand 1894 Opera House, the kitchen turns out curtain-conscious preshow dinners. Beer, wine, & margaritas.
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BAJIO
5712 N. 10th (956-687-1222) Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11, Sun 11–9. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
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McAllen
| Mexican |
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(From July 2009) Magnificent chandeliers, talavera mosaics, and hanging copper pots adorn this spot, named for the rugged region northwest of Mexico City. You order at the counter, where you can choose from a variety of dishes and select from the various salsas and condiments on display. The smoked beef tacos were great, but the pork al pastor tacos were a little too sweet.
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BIGO’S
464 Paredes Line Rd (956-986-0787) Open Mon–Fri 11–11:30, Sat 11–midnight, Sun 11–10:30. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
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Brownsville
| Mexican |
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(From August 2009) Murals, vivid colors, decorative lights, and waiters in bandannas, all beneath a sky-blue ceiling, evoke the exuberance of a Mexican plaza. The huarache marinero with shrimp was excellent, and the tacos de alambre—beef fajitas, green peppers, onions, and white cheese—weren’t bad either. Bar.
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BODEGAS TACO SHOP
1200 Binz (713-528-6102) Open Sun–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–midnight. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$–$$ |
Houston
| Mexican |
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(From October 2009) Happily, the dearth of Mexican eateries in the Museum District has eased with the opening of this casual taco and burrito joint, complete with inviting patio tables along tree-lined Caroline Street. The for-mat is familiar, but the ingredients are upgraded and many items house-made. We chose a supersize burrito with ground sirloin and a taco plate featuring both pork carnitas and fajita chicken, then piled on beans, cheese, onion, sour cream, and tomato. Next came pineapple salsa for the carnitas and cilantro lime sauce for the burrito, plus guava frozen margaritas all around. Bar.
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BRISA COCINA MEXICANA
5161 San Felipe (713-993-9899) Open Mon–Fri 11–10, Sat 11–11. Brunch Sun 10–4. web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | photo | no access | add to library | |
$$-$$$ |
Houston
| Mexican |
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(From September 2009) White tablecloths and solicitous service are your first clues. This place is a step above the usual Mexican spot. Sure, the traditional standbys make an appearance, but how about the queso cilantro: a block of Chihuahua cheese crusted with crushed chicha-rrones (puffy pork rinds) and fried, then topped with poblano-tomatillo sauce, cilantro, and sesame seeds? Or an inventive Queso Fajita, a wrapper of cheese stuffed with fajita meat, then topped with a garnish of avocado pico de gallo? Bar.
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CAFE SAN MIGUEL
1907 N. Henderson Ave (214-370-9815) Open Tue–Thur 11–2:30 & 5–10, Fri & Sat 11–2:30 & 5–11. Brunch Sun 10–3. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Dallas
| Mexican |
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(From August 2008) This is not your typical Mexican restaurant: The orange walls and ceiling, gold wainscoting, and what can only be called “destination restrooms” signal that you are in a special place. As does the food. Guacamole is made to order with lime, white onion, cilantro, and roasted garlic. Charcoal-grilled, skin-on salmon comes with an avocado sauce, garlic rice, and fresh greens—a nice mix of strong flavors and vivid colors. Assertive flavors also abound in the cool green salsa of avocados, tomatillos, and cilantro, as well as in the “chicostillas,” slow-roasted pork spareribs in adobo sauce. Our excellent waiter had total command of the menu and all its regional nuances. Bar.
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CAROLINA’S MEXICAN CUISINE
3310 N. Central Expy (U.S. Hwy 75), Plano (972-423-2977) Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11, Sun 11–9:30. web site | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Dallas
| Mexican |
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(From December 2009) Carolina Galvan-Rodriguez has a heck of a foodie gene, and this newest offering does her proud. We slathered an order of chunky fresh guacamole on sturdy chips while contemplating the lineup of entrées. We can testify that the tacos de bistec (grilled flank steak) were delightful served up with slices of lime, chopped onions, and cilantro. Tres leches cake was not only moist and tasty but also big enough to share. To sum it up, the food is good, the two patios are welcoming, service is simpático, and prices are reasonable—so why are you still sitting there? Bar.
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