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COOL CAFE
123 Auditorium Circle or via Havana Riverwalk Inn (210-224-2665) Open Mon-Wed 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Thur & Fri 7-11, Sat 9-11, Sun 9-9. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | |
$$ |
San Antonio
| Mediterranean / Middle Eastern |
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(From November 2009) This gem, behind the Havana Riverwalk Inn, serves mostly Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food. A splendid “fish kebab” featured broiled cubes of salmon adroitly flavored with saffron and lemon, while a beef pot roast with tomato sauce, more nearly a stew, had vigorous, deep flavors. Among the apps, we liked the tangy tabouleh salad and mirza ghasemi, a cold Persian eggplant and tomato combo. Informal yet digni-fied, Cool Café has vast river-view windows. Bar.
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KASRA
525 W. Arapaho, at Custer, Richardson (972-235-4007) Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–4:30. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | |
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Dallas
| Middle Eastern |
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(From November 2009) It’s a lovely room, with a long rectangular pool of floating candles. A complimentary plate of mint and basil, green onions, radishes, cubes of feta, and warm pita bread will tide you over until the Persian entrées arrive. We chose the ghormeh sabzi, a “green” stew of chunks of tenderloin enveloped in a lovely broth with spinach, parsley, cilantro, and shallots; it’s best spooned over saffron basmati rice. For the adventurous, there are ghel-yan pipes with sweetened tobacco for a postprandial smoke. The conventional can make do with rice pudding scented with rosewater.
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LITE BITE
3624 50th (806-788-0215) Open Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri & Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. map | latest review | access ++ | |
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Lubbock
| Mediterranean / Middle Eastern |
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(From November 2008) Browsing this cafe’s international market will stimulate your appetite for the enticing Mediterranean fare served here. We munched on stuffed grape leaves, hummus, and baba ganouj before moving on to gyros of tender beef nestled in warm flatbread and drizzled with tzatziki. Creative pizzas and nicely seasoned falafel, plus baklava and other nutty desserts, round out the menu. BYOB.
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SAFFRON
2006 Lexington (713-522-3562) Dinner Tue–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations accepted. web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | no access | |
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Houston
| Middle Eastern / Eclectic |
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(From August 2008) Replete with Moroccan lanterns, tiles, and the requisite belly dancer, Saffron is nonetheless family-friendly and provides a good entry to North African cuisine. Our party gave enthusiastic thumbs-up to starters: beef ragoût rolled in phyllo and served in a honey-tomato confit and tender sweetbreads with fava beans and ginger. Thumbs stayed aloft for a simple, luscious dish of braised chicken over Moroccan bread in a saffron broth. Thumbs down, though, for dry bastilla and chewy lamb shank. Bar.
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SAHADI
709 N. 10th St. (956-682-3419) Open 7 days 11-10. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | |
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McAllen
| Mediterranean / Middle Eastern |
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(From November 2009) This intimate spot, reminiscent of a southern European establishment, offers a variety of dishes. The Middle East sampler is our favorite and comes with stuffed grape leaves, feta, lebneh, falafel, baba ganouj, tzatziki, olives, and pita. Crossing several borders, we opted for the Thai sesame chicken served with vegetables and fettuccine tossed with a spicy peanut-sesame sauce, then lingered, chatting away and sipping cappuccino. Beer & wine.
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SHINE’S MEDITERRANEAN MARKET
14902 Preston Rd, at Belt Line, southeast corner (972-763-1842) Open Mon–Sat 9:30–8, Sun 11–6. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | |
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Dallas
| Middle Eastern |
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(From May 2009) When we’ve just got to have a Middle Eastern fix, we amble into this small cafe/store to partake of emerald green tabouleh glazed with lemon juice, crispy falafel (we defy anyone to come up with a better version), rather sweetish dolmas, and warm puffy pita bread stuffed with shawarma and topped with wonderfully tart tzatziki. For dessert, grab a bit of baklava on the way out.
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SHIRAZ
4230 McCullough, at the Olmos rotary (210-829-5050) Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access + | |
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San Antonio
| Middle Eastern |
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(From September 2009) We marvel each visit how well the romantic yet unpretentious atmosphere pairs with the captivating Iranian food. Appetizers include shrimp with a lemony saffron sauce and kashk-e bademjan, a savory eggplant spread. Among the entrées, the bandari—beef sirloin in a spicy pomegranate sauce—puts the familiar in an unfamiliar context, as does the shrimp with walnuts and cranberries. The service could not be more punctilious. Bar.
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