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(From October 2008) Almost at Galveston’s far west end, Avery’s is where turf (chicken-fried steak, fried chicken) meets surf (local and imported seafood). We passed on the Dungeness crab, swordfish, and Australian lobster tail and went for the delicately grilled Gulf shrimp lightly bathed in garlicky lemon butter and tossed with linguine. Our companion hit a triple with catfish crisply fried in cornmeal, a link of andouille sausage, and hearty red beans and rice. Bar.

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(From December 2008) Oilcloth and rolls of paper towels on the tables let us know right off that this wouldn’t be country club Cajun. We shared a whopping platter of fried blue crabs and sprightly hushpuppies, then went on to grilled shrimp and oysters seasoned to within an inch of their lives. The crawfish étouffée would have made any cook in Lafayette proud. Beer & wine.

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(From January 2009) No longer does ambience trump food at the lobby restaurant of the grand Hotel Galvez, which first opened its doors in 1911. Our cumin-infused Indian slaw arrived topped with two perfectly grilled jumbo shrimp while our companion’s delicately flavored crab salad came wrapped in ribbons of cucumber. Both revealed a deft hand in the kitchen, but it was the New-Fashioned Chicken Soup—fresh julienne vegetables, slivers of chicken breast, and crisp rice noodles—that received the highest accolades. Bravo. Bar.

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(From December 2009) No trip to the island is complete without a stop at this landmark, with its vintage photos of the big catch and mounted fish trophies. Staffers have to be quick on their feet, as the place is large and usually packed. And what are people flocking for? All manner of fresh seafood (particularly the fried shrimp) and steaks. If you’re lucky, snapper will be offered as a special (order it pan-broiled). If the wait is too long, sit at the bar—you’ll get a great margarita and a chat with the locals. Bar.

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(From December 2009) With less macho overkill than most chain steakhouses, Mark Bohanan has created a charming upstairs restaurant (with a newly opened bar downstairs) that caters to both the well-heeled and those who simply love a good steak. Bohanan’s is justly known for mesquite-grilled Midwestern beef and pricier cuts of Japanese Akaushi beef, but the seafood is just as stellar. Just one giant, luscious Mystic River oyster was plenty to start with, particularly when followed with garlicky white gazpacho and an oven-baked halibut that combined flavor, moistness, and flaky texture to a T. The front gallery room is our favorite; rose petals on reserved tables are a nice touch, and the waiters are attentive but not intrusive. Bar.

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(From July 2008) A location on Old Route 66, some forty miles west of Amarillo. Folks dressed as dance hall girls and cowboys. Tin and wood and red velvet. You’ll think you’ve walked onto a movie set. But Rory Schepisi, of Next Food Network Star fame, is in the back manning the cast iron, and there’s nothing make-believe about the food. Start right in with a Black Angus burger with provolone and sautéed mushrooms, and request a side of sweet potato fries. The twelve-ounce New York strip (we ordered ours rare) will satisfy the most critical steak eater, while the flaky pan-seared mahimahi will please the piscivore. Bar.

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(From April 2009) Taken out of its natural environment, New Orleans food often lacks the fresh bite typical of Creole and Cajun cuisine. This relocated restaurant (formerly Bourbon Street Café, in Castle Hills) proves the exception. Two standards—the chicken-and-sausage jambalaya and the crawfish-and-shrimp étouffée—have an unmistakable authenticity about them: carefully prepared fish and fowl, a rich roux for the étouffée, a fine balance of fresh peppers, celery, and onion for the jambalaya. Competent service and a quiet dining room. Bar.

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(From June 2008) This friendly, down-home spot, located right on the river in Parker County, serves up some mean catfish. Try it blackened, with a sweet-tart green-tomato relish, or crusted with crunchy pecans. And don’t pass up the fresh coleslaw and the homemade hushpuppies. Not a fish fan? How about a grilled steak with all the fixins. After all, it’d be a shame to miss the vintage photos and the cache of Elvis memorabilia. BYOB.

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(From March 2009) This casual Gaido’s sibling dishes up tasty burgers and fried shrimp, but we go for the salads, as hearty as they are healthy. Our faves are the Southwest crab cake salad—two plump cakes on a bed of crunchy greens tossed in chipotle dressing with tortilla strips and avocado—and the spinach with blackened salmon, sautéed mushrooms, and avocado. One of those and an order of iced Gulf shrimp will leave you plenty of room to swoon over a slice of the irresistibly gooey crustless pecan pie. Bar.

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(From May 2009) For a great Southern meal (and perhaps a paranormal experience or two), step into this lovely 1895 Victorian home on Water Street. Lightly battered fried dill pickles with homemade ranch will prepare you for the Cajun-leaning menu. We tried the blackened catfish filet, topped with creole sauce and served with black-eyed peas and hushpuppies. A friendly spirit suggested we order the fried ice cream for dessert: a dip of cinnamon rolled in graham cracker crumbs, fried, and topped with hot fudge and whipped cream. After dinner, have a look around the place—if you dare.

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