Austin

(From November 2008) If you find yourself hungry in North Austin, ditch the Domain and settle in at this unpretentious strip-mall spot for some excellent Italian food. All the frills you need are sprinkled throughout the menu. We were bowled over by the pillowlike gnocchi bathed in a decadent fontina béchamel. The fettuccine was sublime in a hearty tomato and Italian sausage ragù, and the rosemary veal sang with a bright lemon butter sauce. The tiramisù was above average, but the star of the dessert menu was the white-chocolate cheesecake. Beer & wine.

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(From October 2009) Paris meets Austin in this new bistro (a reimagined Apple Annie’s), with its banquettes, soothing creamy-white color scheme, chalkboard specials, and lively recorded jazz. A beautiful halibut filet perched atop pea-and-corn risotto with perky tomato relish, while succulent roasted chicken was accessorized by perfectly plump herbed gnocchi, carrots, and summer squash. Bar.

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(From October 2009) Austin’s historic Hyde Park neighborhood attracts young families, University of Texas students, and stalwart old-timers who’ve been around since way before the area became hip. Asti takes care of all comers. The slender, contemporary space has a bit of a classy-diner feel, with its red-topped tables and stainless-steel accents, but soft, sheer curtains lessen the edgy effect. Changing with the seasons, the menu might surprise you, for example with a starter of house-made mozzarella and roasted sweet peppers along with mixed greens tossed with bits of Bartlett pear and shallot dressing. Seafood is a good direction for an entrée: On one visit seared scallops took a homey turn, surrounded by tomatoes braised with pancetta, and on the next, their flavor popped with a truffled Meyer lemon relish. But the needs of meat eaters are never ignored; those of a carnivorous bent can expect the likes of pink duck breast in an irresistible fig mostarda (a condiment with a subtle nip) sided by lovely soft white polenta. By the meal’s end, if you have a bit of room, go for something simple like cinnamon-dusted beignets and an affogato (vanilla bean gelato with a shot of espresso poured over it).

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(From August 2009) If, like us, you have a deep and abiding love of both buffalo wings and hamburgers and have often wondered if together they would not produce something greater than the sum of their parts, this is the burger for you. The tangy vinegar-and-Tabasco sauce is hot but not overpowering, and the richness of the blue cheese is complemented by the thick tomato slices and a delicate spring mix of arugula and spinach. We know that sounds a little sissified, but balance is provided by the sports bar’s pool table, dart boards, waitresses in short shorts, and abundant flat-screen TVs tuned to ESPN.

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(From April 2009) While its menu may not be as extensive nor its setting as grand as those of the cafe at the Kimbell, in Fort Worth—the benchmark by which all museum cafes should be measured—this casual new cafeteria-style dining venue across from UT’s Blanton Museum of Art is well on its way. Choose from a varied light menu designed by UT chef Josh Watkins (formerly of the Driskill Hotel), including yummy flatbread pizzas, crisp build-your-own salads, and panini (we raved over the Italian, with prosciutto, smoked ham, salami, and provolone). Visit the adjacent gift shop on your way out. Beer & wine.

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(From October 2009) A romantic sanctuary in the middle of town, Blue Dahlia Bistro is a cute, European-inspired cafe that prides itself on using organic products whenever possible. Take, for example, the excellent salads, most of which are topped with a hearty vegan pesto that tastes as good as the cheesy variety. Each is served with fresh artisan bread on a tray with the requisite jams and jellies, but chocoholics will rave about the inclusion of Nutella. Sandwiches come open-faced on handsome slabs of wood or slate (try the chicken salad with pine nuts, pesto, and dried cranberries). We ordered sparkling wine that showed up flat, but the bread pudding that accompanied it was warm, gooey perfection. The real attraction here, though, is the luxurious backyard that transforms even a quick lunch into a lazy afternoon. With the sunlight filtering through the wood slats above your head, patterning your tabletop while potted trees and chimes sway in the breeze, you’ll feel as content as Buddha. The tables in this tiny courtyard go fast, but it seems like there’s always at least one waiting just for you.

September 18th, 2008 at 3:31pm
Libby says:
This place has an old Austin hippie aura in the best sense. Excellent spot for a glass of wine along with their antipasto platter. In the back, there's a tropical-vibe patio with palms, bananas, and bamboo rustling. Go with a group, order different sandwiches, and swap sections like you're in grade school.

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Rene Renteria

(From November 2009) The transformation of vegetables to mimic meat has been a tradition for ages, but the “living foods” movement nixes (almost all) cooking. Borboleta’s light, herb-flavored dollops of macadamia “cheese” had a ricottalike feel in the mouth. Tucked between thin layers of raw zucchini along with marinated portobello mushrooms, they created a light, flavorful lasagne. A caprese salad (featuring said macadamia cheese) was less convincing, while nut-crusted chocolate pie and cheesecake proved sweet but dull. The place is tucked into Bella Salon, so you may see clients grazing while waiting for their highlights to take.

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(From August 2009) Buenos Aires Café—Austin’s first Argentine eatery—has opened a spacious and inviting second location on the east side. Fresh and flaky, empanadas come with various fillings, including a don’t-miss carne picante with scallions, raisins, and green olives and a vegetarian’s dream packed with spinach, ricotta, and Parmesan. Entrées can be spotty; steer clear of the bland gnocchi and head straight for the pastel de papas, Argentina’s answer to shepherd’s pie. Vegetable lovers will enjoy the handmade herbed crepes (canelones caseros) filled with Parmesan and a portobello-eggplant blend. Beer & wine.

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(From August 2009) Sometimes you want a burger that’s just a little bit different, and the Korean owners of this humble restaurant cook up a delicious twist. The tender beef has been audaciously marinated in soy sauce, garlic, and sesame oil, but what really makes it unique is that it’s thinly sliced rather than ground. Sure, there might be some grumpy purists out there who insist that ground meat is a constitutive part of hamburgers. To these scrooges we say, your loss is our (weight) gain. The bulgogi sauce is a hot, coral-colored blend featuring roasted garlic and onions. At the fixin’s bar, you dress the shaved meat yourself with fresh tomatoes, crisp lettuce, and homemade condiments.

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(From November 2009) If you find yourself racked with hunger while strolling the lovely grounds of Laguna Gloria art museum around lunchtime, you needn’t flee for sustenance: 34th Street Café is now serving up tasty pre-made sandwiches and salads. We enjoyed the roast beef with Gouda and horseradish, particularly its spongy poppy seed bread.

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