Austin

(From February 2012)

Yes, the tucked-away setting off Lamar has been inauspicious for many a restaurant. And, yes, a few of us are suffering from pork fatigue. But it’s hard not to be charmed by this cheerful yellow house, with its hodgepodge of porcine decor and enthusiastic young staff. And it’s also hard not to wonder if this place got named for the wrong animal. Sure, the ubiquitous bacon was great—sprinkled atop a mound of cheesy fries, sandwiched with juicy tomatoes between thick slices of toasted bread. But what really got our attention were the massive chunks of golden-battered fried chicken, in an appetizer (strips served with bacon gravy, of course) and in the chicken BLT, in which the B, the L, and the T got seriously upstaged. Beer.

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(From January 2012)

The more things change, the more they change. Longtime central Austin restaurant Zoot moved way out to Bee Cave Road two years ago but never really thrived. Stewart Scruggs and Mark Paul put it out of its misery, and about a month or so later, reopened as BC Tavern. Intelligent move. Within two weeks, the nice but less dressy restaurant and bar was busy most every night. What's bringing in the customers are backyard and down-home dishes like four different burgers and fried chicken on Sundays. But because the owners are chefs, not just cooks, they can't resist French bistro favorites like an excellent duck confit with al dente vegetables and moist, if dense, quenelles (which they disguise under the name Duck-n-Dumplins). Also very fine: a ribeye with new potatoes and a balsalmic-drizzled broiled tomato. In need of a thnk-over: clunky onion rings and delicate but disturbingly nugget-size sweetbreads.

See also Pat's Pick, page 133.

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(From January 2012)

You can't help but feel a tinge of Paris at the turn of the twentieth century when you're dining in this gothic basement-level restaurant, especially tucked away in a cozy booth beneath an antique chandelier. Gulf shrimp simmered in a garlicky tomato broth and served with a slice of crisply grilled ciabatta started the meal out on the right note. Easily keeping pace was a hearty chicken potpie with a puff pastry shell. Grilled tenderloin in a mushroom reduction with a pat of foie gras compound butter tasted as decadent as it sounds, but a seared scallop dish laden with butter and salt was too much of a good thing. Bar.

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(From December 2010) Seated in this upscale, contemporary-meets-rustic locale, you soon forget you’re at a conference center on a university campus—especially when the parade of seasonal treats starts arriving from young chef Josh Watkins. A miso-marinated Japanese mero (snapper)—served over a bed of wilted spinach, sautéed maitakes, and a carrot-ginger reduction—impressed us, as did seared wagyu paired with crisp sweetbreads and brown-butter apples. But sweet and savory grilled foie gras with roasted figs, a fig reduction, and a cloud of vanilla French toast was the dish that made us think of holiday parties to come. Bar.

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(From February 2012)

Those who feared that the dining room’s recent renovation might diminish its charm can relax. The historic hotel still delivers on gracious atmosphere and gold-star treatment. Though tempted to indulge in the seven-course tasting menu, we opted to order à la carte. Soy-glazed-ahi tartare was a fresh start that came alive with lemon and yuzu-ginger sauce, and a beet and goat cheese salad (with crisp slices of Fuji apple drizzled with honey) gave the feel of healthy decadence. A beautifully grilled filet mignon pleased, but creamy risotto with chanterelle mushrooms and creamy pumpkin purée stole our hearts. Bar.

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(From January 2011) This urban hot dog haunt was hopping on a recent Saturday, filled with hungry Sixth Street revelers. We drank Real Ale Fireman’s #4 on draft and shared a gargantuan basket of waffle fries smothered in cheddar, sour cream, and bacon. The Chicago Dog lives up to its name, replete with poppy seed bun, sport peppers, and Day-Glo relish. Less of a clear winner was the Slaw Dog, with surprisingly flavorless coleslaw. Still, choosing a good bread (try the slightly sweet Sweetish Hill Bun) and adding a “dippin’ sauce” (like bacon buttermilk) can improve the result. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

You gotta love a brand-new restaurant that takes it upon itself to go ahead and print up a few T-shirts. Such is the instant cachet of the East Austin enterprise. And despite its rather corporate-looking logo, this half pool hall, half gourmet sandwich shop is distinctly Austiney, run by neighborhood residents and housed in the former El Lobo Night Club. The bill of fare includes, of course, sandwiches (like the excellent Foghorn Leghorn, a garlicky chicken salad with pepperjack cheese and lightly fried avocado), salads, and soups (potato-bacon, broccoli beer cheese) served up in adorable bread bowls. If that’s not enough to draw a crowd, surely the all-day drink specials (Margarita Mondays, Wine Not Wednesdays) will. Bar.

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(From November 2011)

Mixologist with the Midas touch Bill Norris has left, but the gastropub with the quail motif is still golden. Truffled egg custard, a cold egg yolk trembling in the tiny cup, gilded the accompanying toast. Love Letters, pasta packets served with arcs of fennel, were safe for the cautious palate, but a trio of grilled veal sweetbreads nestled in corn risotto went down just as easy. Steak Oysters were nothing more than big Gulf oysters broiled with lots of bacon—but nobody’s complaining. Sticky toffee pudding came served with a shot of ginger beer. Bar (till 2 a.m.).

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Photograph by Ben Pickle of CreativePickle.com

(From August 2011)

Now in an air-conditioned space, this hot-dog-stand-turned-pared-down-diner speaks to the frankfurter freak in us all. Our favorite was the unconventional Greek dog, a flavorful lamb sausage with tangy tzatziki and kalamata olives, plus tomato, cucumber, and crumbly feta. The Texas-size chili dog was tasty, even though the chili was a bit dry, but the corn dog could have used a second dip in batter. A sure bet was the Abe Froman classic Chicago dog: a Vienna beef frank and the obligatory mustard, onions, relish, tomatoes, peppers, pickle spear, and celery salt. Postmeal antacid optional. 

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