Austin

(From May 2009) Stepping into this dimly lit East Austin dive may seem like an act of faith, but in its few months on the scene, the welcoming, ultrahumble little room has amassed quite a following, serving classic cocktails like the Sazerac and a compact Old World menu. Though the chicken pâté proved bland, the delicious home-style chicken potpie came in a rich broth augmented with root vegetables and topped with a crisp puff pastry cap. Flammekueche, an Alsatian spin on pizza, came slathered with a near-jam of caramelized onions studded with bits of bacon and dabs of crème fraîche. It was excellent, though heavier on the onions and lighter on the crème than the Alsace version. A chocolate pot de crème infused with Earl Grey tea was every bit as smooth and flavorful as it sounds. Bar.

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(From August 2009) Can it be that Wink is eight years old? It seems like only yesterday that it was the novel upstart. Now it’s one of those restaurants that come to mind when someone says, “I’m looking for a special place to take . . .” (fill in name of high-value guest here). Our last visit to the petite black-and-caramel dining room started with bison tartare (leaner than beef but equally mild), served with crostini for making crisp open-faced mini-sandwiches. Somebody in the kitchen (must be chef Mark Paul) knows how to cook duck, because the duck breast, with dabs of subtle arugula pesto, was pink perfection. Bar.

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