Austin

(From October 2009) A romantic sanctuary in the middle of town, Blue Dahlia Bistro is a cute, European-inspired cafe that prides itself on using organic products whenever possible. Take, for example, the excellent salads, most of which are topped with a hearty vegan pesto that tastes as good as the cheesy variety. Each is served with fresh artisan bread on a tray with the requisite jams and jellies, but chocoholics will rave about the inclusion of Nutella. Sandwiches come open-faced on handsome slabs of wood or slate (try the chicken salad with pine nuts, pesto, and dried cranberries). We ordered sparkling wine that showed up flat, but the bread pudding that accompanied it was warm, gooey perfection. The real attraction here, though, is the luxurious backyard that transforms even a quick lunch into a lazy afternoon. With the sunlight filtering through the wood slats above your head, patterning your tabletop while potted trees and chimes sway in the breeze, you’ll feel as content as Buddha. The tables in this tiny courtyard go fast, but it seems like there’s always at least one waiting just for you.

September 18th, 2008 at 3:31pm
Libby says:
This place has an old Austin hippie aura in the best sense. Excellent spot for a glass of wine along with their antipasto platter. In the back, there's a tropical-vibe patio with palms, bananas, and bamboo rustling. Go with a group, order different sandwiches, and swap sections like you're in grade school.

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(From June 2008) A seat along the back wall of this stately dining room is prime for watching the white-coated servers move through the room in a sort of elegant dance. We were dazzled by a creamy lobster crêpe atop a wonderful tangle of Bibb lettuce with shaved radishes and lumps of lobster tucked inside. Short ribs proved succulent but were outshone by tender medallions of antelope tenderloin on a bed of braised red cabbage. Bar.

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(From January 2009) Raised in Kansas City, executive chef and proprietor Kent Rathbun reveals his Midwestern sensibilities in dishes such as baby back ribs and creamy baked-potato salad. But expect these homey specials to be modernized, as in his singular mac and cheese, brimming with aged Gouda, smoky ham, and slivered almonds. Ditto the prosciutto-wrapped shrimp with grits, yet another classed-up dish. Among the entrées, don’t miss the Texas peach pork tenderloin. And if you have an inch of space remaining, try Rick’s Rockin’ Chocolate Cake, with white- and dark-chocolate ganaches. (The best thing about it may be the accompanying miniature vanilla shake.) Bar.

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(From December 2009) At this quaint Clarksville favorite, location is everything. Originally seated near the entry, we were bothered by the outdoor elements breezing in with each new arrival. But this was easily remedied with a simple relocation request. Dinner was sort of a mixed bag. We loved chef Deegan McClung’s take on the signature crispy oysters (now served with a smoky bacon accent), and the caprese with heirloom tomatoes sang with smoked mozzarella. But our hanger steak with hearts of palm and a number of other cluttering elements proved that too much creativity creates confusion on the plate. Bar.

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(From August 2009) A highly personal question must be asked before you order: Are you a Big Ass or a Half Ass? It’s cool if you’re a Big Ass, but happily, even the eight-ounce Half Ass is plenty. The hand-formed patty of 100 percent ground chuck is accessorized with aged cheddar and three crunchy strips of excellent lean bacon. Chipotle mayo (infinitely superior to plain mayo, IOHO) comes on the side. The one drawback is that the inevitable gusher of meat juices soaks the bottom bun, causing the sandwich to begin falling apart about halfway through the meal. Frankly, the Half Ass doesn’t eat all that well, but, as Mom used to say, everything gets mixed up in your stomach anyway, and would that all catastrophes tasted so fine. (Plus, the dainty eater could always—gasp!—use a fork).

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(From August 2009) Nestled among a grove of live oaks overlooking Quarry Lake, this sleek addition to the North Austin restaurant scene has a more contemporary feel than its Western-themed downtown sibling. Taking advantage of an evening breeze, we sat on the patio and noshed on fresh-made guacamole and sipped a cold huckleberry margarita to get in the proper end-of-the-day mood. For dinner, we chose the deconstructed mahimahi fish taco, which was as beautiful as it was delicious. Our side dish, green chile mac and cheese, sounded great but was a little too greasy. Bar.

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(From August 2009) Can it be that Wink is eight years old? It seems like only yesterday that it was the novel upstart. Now it’s one of those restaurants that come to mind when someone says, “I’m looking for a special place to take . . .” (fill in name of high-value guest here). Our last visit to the petite black-and-caramel dining room started with bison tartare (leaner than beef but equally mild), served with crostini for making crisp open-faced mini-sandwiches. Somebody in the kitchen (must be chef Mark Paul) knows how to cook duck, because the duck breast, with dabs of subtle arugula pesto, was pink perfection. Bar.

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(From July 2009) Rarely does the new site of a relocated restaurant retain the original’s vibe, and that’s the case here. The space seems twice the size of the cottage on Hearn but lacks the charm; think a Southwestern-ish exterior and a nondescript interior with completely bare walls. Happily, though—and more important—the food is as good as ever. We started with fabulous seared scallops on semolina gnocchi before moving on to spring greens with marinated root vegetables and fresh herbs (unfortunately, the truffle-lemon vinaigrette weighed it all down). But in the end, we were most wowed by the roasted pork loin with braised red cabbage and peppercorn demi-glace. Bar.

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