Austin

(From June 2011) We found a table for two in the back of this airy downtown space, then sipped some pinot grigio, taking in the lively scene up front by the bar. The Market Slaw—shaved fennel, apples, and spring vegetables plus frisée and endive in an overdose of buttermilk dressing—didn’t impress, but the moules, mus-sels in white wine with chorizo, took us back to a lovely lunch in Saint-Malo many summers ago. A bowl of French onion soup satisfied our companion, while we noshed on ultra-crisp pommes frites and a perfectly cooked steak drizzled with heavenly béarnaise. We left as the band was warming up, de-termined to plan our next trip abroad. Bar.

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(From May 2011) On a nippy evening, we edged our way into this wildly popular start-up from chef-owner Bryce Gilmore (he also has Odd Duck trailer, but don’t worry—this one’s indoors). We enjoyed the congenial vibe from the four communal tables while we waited for our small plates. First came roasted beets with creamy ricotta, endive, and shaved fen-nel—nice. We quite liked the pairing of grilled baby octopus with chorizo and white beans, but it paled in compari-son with our first bite of the soft-boiled egg with crispy stuffed pig’s foot, mushrooms, and mustard. We were told the best way to eat the trotter was to mix everything up, and it was a revelation, the perfect melding of textures and flavors. We finished with beer-braised rabbit stew. Pure bliss. We didn’t want to leave this little island of happiness. Beer & wine.

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(From May 2011) Chef David Bull once made the Driskill Grill an Austin destination for fine dining. Now he’s back, after a nearly two-year hiatus in Dallas. More to the point, he’s back on track, making elegant Congress, at the base of the Austonian condos, a go-to restaurant for special occasions. The menu is refined, the execution, under chef de cuisine Re-becca Meeker, precise. Check out his starter of heavenly house-made burrata, set against a salad of wild arugula and sweet-tart agrodolce sauce. Or indulge in the white lobster bisque with a brilliant dab of Fresno chile–tomato jam and a wee lobster-ricotta fritter afloat in the middle. Rack of lamb is sided by cardamom yogurt and salsify (the world’s most boring root vegetable, an odd choice for Bull). Desserts, by Houston émigré Plinio Sandalio, late of Textile, fully match the imagination of the main courses. Little brownies (with dabs of black-garlic purée, chile wa-fers, and candied cumin pecans) make for a combo as brilliant as it is crazy. Bar.

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(From February 2012)

Those who feared that the dining room’s recent renovation might diminish its charm can relax. The historic hotel still delivers on gracious atmosphere and gold-star treatment. Though tempted to indulge in the seven-course tasting menu, we opted to order à la carte. Soy-glazed-ahi tartare was a fresh start that came alive with lemon and yuzu-ginger sauce, and a beet and goat cheese salad (with crisp slices of Fuji apple drizzled with honey) gave the feel of healthy decadence. A beautifully grilled filet mignon pleased, but creamy risotto with chanterelle mushrooms and creamy pumpkin purée stole our hearts. Bar.

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(From December 2010)

Boggy Creek arugula, topped with pears and shaved pecorino, nods toward local sourcing, while soft-shell-crab steam buns—the soft rolls also filled with pork belly and avocado, slathered with hoisin, and drizzled with a spicy-tart fish sauce—recalls certain hipster-food-trailer dishes. Even traditional steak tartare (melt-in-your-mouth filet bound by a quail egg and served with a delicate herb salad and two types of fancy potato chips) mirrors what is being served across town. But here, trends get a refined spin, and there’s nary a tattoo in sight (well, not on the servers at least). Bar.

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(From March 2011) Wink always feels vivacious and alive, perhaps because there is rarely an empty table at this intimate neighborhood restaurant. At the forefront of the locavore movement, Wink celebrates Texas farms, foragers, gardens, and ranches. Salads are mini works of art, a case in point being mixed lettuces, salted almonds, Asian pears, goat cheese, and ginger vinaigrette. It is perfection on a plate (though we must mention that the plate was small and the price large: $14). As for entrées, chef-owner Mark Paul has a sure hand with fish. Our salmon, perfectly grilled, was augmented by sweet cipolline, romano beans, and a truffled beurre rouge. There’s even more truffle flavor in the divine mac and cheese. If your table’s not ready, make a beeline for Wink’s cozy wine bar and relax over a cocktail. Beer & wine.

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