Austin

(From October 2010) Look past the lackluster ambience and focus on the service, which is friendly and accommodating, and the Vietnamese food, which is impressive. Crisp jellyfish-and-shrimp salad surprised with crunchy texture and vibrant color. The beef pho delivered a sharp yet velvety punch, and the tea-smoked duck, laced with ribbons of leek and ginger root, had a smokiness that lent depth to the dish’s bright, citrusy notes. We tried the pickled plum water for adventure but soon realized it is a beverage that takes some getting used to. Beer & wine.

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(From April 2011) It’s a family affair all the way at this tiny Vietnamese cafe. Regulars bring gifts to the sisters who operate the place, and their husbands have been known to don aprons over their dress pants and help bus tables. Detouring from our usual favorite bun or pho bowls, we started with jícama rolls with tiny slices of Chinese sausage, then fol-lowed with a poor-boy-like banh mi (filled with crunchy strips of fried squid dressed in garlic and butter). A plate of steamed rice topped with ribbons of grilled pork, shredded pork, tripe, and fried tofu skin was an exciting tour of myriad textures; on top sat a fried egg, its yolk helping to unify the elements. Though the industrial park setting has little charm, the interest-ing, authentic food and the graciousness of the sisters are winning. BYOB.

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