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RAILROAD SEAFOOD STATION
1214 N. Chaparral, one block north of I-37 (361-883-6200) Open Mon–Thur 10–10, Fri & Sat 10–10:30. Closed Sun. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$-$$ |
Seafood |
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(From October 2009) The latest pioneer to stake a claim on the site of the lamented Hofbrau steakhouse, the RSS (original location in Odem) offers a nice variety of steak and seafood dishes in a warehouse environment (with regrettable acoustics). We enjoyed a grilled drum filet accompanied by passable mixed vegetables and an excellent coleslaw livened up with chopped broccoli and a sprinkle of bacon chips. We were also pleased with a copious green salad graced with fried popcorn shrimp and a generous slice of homemade chocolate cheesecake. Bar.
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SHELL'S PASTA AND SEAFOOD
522 E. Avenue G, Port Aransas (361-749-7621) Open 7 days 11:30–2:30 & 3–9 (sometimes till 10 on Fri & Sat). map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$–$$$ |
Seafood / Italian |
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(From October 2008) The extensive list of blackboard specials made choosing difficult, but after an appetizer of roasted garlic with toasted focaccia, we settled on the blue-crab cake with aioli (sublime). Our companion praised the tuna taco: rare tuna wrapped in corn tortillas and topped with avocado, shredded red onion, and a black-bean-and-diced-tomato garnish. The delicately flavored Key lime pie was superfluous but disappeared nonetheless. Beer & wine.
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SHELLS
522 East Avenue G, Port Aransas (361-749-7621) Open Mon 11:30–2 & 5–9, Wed–Sun 11:30–2:30 & 5–9. Closed Tue. map | latest review | no access | add to library | |
$-$$ |
Seafood / American |
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(From June 2009) It must be the food that keeps locals and visitors waiting for tables season after season, because it’s not the location (obscure), the view (a busy intersection), or the decor (nondescript). There’s something suited to every taste on the menu and the often overwhelming list of blackboard specials. Mango gazpacho seasoned with a hint of onion and a lot of cilantro was a satisfying way to set the stage for the always noteworthy griddle-sautéed crab cake, a skewer of succulent shrimp accompanied by a rich Key lime aioli, and grilled mahimahi with lime and green-chile salsa. Beer & wine.
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THE TORCH
4425 S. Alameda (361-992-7491) Dinner Mon–Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$$ |
Steaks / Seafood |
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(From January 2009) Recently refurbished and expanded, this dependable and affordable neighborhood steak and seafood house is in its fifty-third year (and the twenty-fifth under the flag of Telly Gialouris). You’ll start right with crisp lettuce served on a cold plate, although it’s difficult to decide on a dressing, especially when the choices include two popular house specials: the Lahala (a creamy blue cheese vinaigrette) and the Madras (a blend of mustard and curry). Among the entrées, the grilled salmon filet was excellent, and the tender Angus New York strip was cooked just as ordered. Although a side of grilled zucchini and carrots came off limp, angel hair pasta dressed with oil and roasted garlic was just right. Bar.
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WATER STREET
309 N. Water (361-881-9448) Open Sun–Thur 11–11, Fri & Sat 11–midnight. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library | |
$-$$ |
Seafood / American |
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(From September 2009) Brad Lomax’s twin restaurants share a location, a menu, and a well-deserved reputation for excellent seafood. Whether you choose the lively Oyster Bar or the quieter Seafood Company, you can’t go wrong with the menu (we like the chicken vegetable caldo and the spicy creole shrimp) or the blackboard specials (like the superfresh catch of the day, cooked however you like it). These are two of the most popular venues in town, and with good reason. Bar.
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YARDARM
4310 Ocean Dr (361-855-8157) Dinner Tue–Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun & Mon. web site | map | latest review | access + | add to library | |
$$–$$$ |
Seafood |
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(From September 2009) Hosts Diane and Constantine Tsaousis run a tight ship at this New England–style cottage on the bay, while chef Mario Mantilla, whose food is not elaborate but always excellent, mans the kitchen. We like to start with the mildly picante gazpacho and the tarragon-seasoned crab cakes, and we enthusiastically recommend the snapper en papillote and the broiled flounder stuffed with crab.
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