Dallas

(From January 2011) We love the feeling of this room; it’s a bit like dining in someone’s Italian—or maybe Moroccan—villa. The legendary (rightly so) Al’s Salad, with its hearts of palm, slices of avocado, and hunks of shrimp and crab, is always on the menu, thank goodness. Coming in a close second is a salad of grilled prawns, roasted corn, pico de gallo, and cilantro vinaigrette. We were mightily pleased with an entrée of grilled sea scallops and prawns with a moist napping of ginger butter (and intrigued by the addition of coconut rice studded with little cubes of pineapple). Bar.

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(From November 2011)

Open for 30-odd years, this Deep Ellum institution, with its long brick-walled room and probably original pressed tin ceiling, has piled up the accolades. And after wolfing down chicken-fried chicken strips (absolutely nothing like chicken nuggets) with homemade cream gravy, we understand why that dish is a local favorite. And friends swear that the namesake Angry Dog, a grilled beef kosher dog piled high with chili, cheddar, and grilled onions, is pretty close to heaven. Bar. 

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(From June 2011)

After an exhausting day of sketching at the museum (much fun for our youngest as-sociates), we sank into chairs facing gor-geous Chihuly glass flowers and listened to classical music while waiting for our lunch. Flatbread covered with a layer of garlicky pesto and then topped with locally made moz-zarella and sliced tomatoes was surprisingly good. And the small blueberry tart with a shortbread-like crust was just the ticket for dessert. Bar.

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(From January 2011) No doubt lunch is perfectly fine, but we think breakfast at this sunny Addison spot is the only way to go. Our gratin of applewood-smoked bacon, potatoes, mushrooms, and cheese (adorned with two poached eggs) was perfect; a wheat English muffin, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and steaming coffee in a carafe rounded out our meal. A Belgian waffle (certainly superior to a regular one because it’s twice as thick) thrilled our little diner, who loved the sprinkling of powdered sugar and the personal pitcher of warm maple syrup.

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(From March 2012)

Don’t put off checking out Alberto Lombardi’s newest jewel, in Highland Park Village. A lovely lunch brought us torchio pasta, shaped like the base of a dainty torch, with Dungeness crab, fresh peas, and a stroke-of-genius touch of lemon confit, which gave a bright burst of flavor to the whole dish. Roasted trumpet mushrooms made a delightful side. For dessert, orange ricotta cheesecake with a crispy brûlée top and blueberry compote left us purring with contentment. We’ve no doubt that the food, along with an appealing alfresco space, will soon make this a destination spot. Service, alas, is hit-and-miss. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

Although the bruschetta sampler is terrific at this casual converted garage, we think the intriguing Twig and Branch flatbread with oven-roasted grapes, Caprino Royale goat cheese, and wild arugula (a dark and more intense cousin of regular arugula) will capture food lovers’ hearts. Try the hearty Randall’s Salad, a think-outside-the-box dish that works quite well: greens mixed with slivers of apple and fennel, dressed with maple vinaigrette, and topped with a pork schnitzel. The PB&J consisted of a stellar peanut butter cookie, a nice dollop of silken vanilla panna cotta, and a side of wild mustang grape preserves. The wine list is formidable.

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(From December 2010) Formerly a spot for Cuban food, this small, square room has become a densely populated, noisy place with the feel of a neighborhood tavern. Burgers are the focal point here, with just a few salads and appetizers on the menu. We ordered a quarter-pounder and a side of fresh-cut sweet potato fries, which filled us up to a button-busting point. Our young companion gobbled up a corny dog, which also came with sweet potato fries and, best of all, a free ice cream cone. For dessert, there are adult shakes and build-your-own sundaes. Bar.

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(From June 2011)

The surreal art, rust-colored velvet, and yacht-propeller ceiling fans make this one of the more interesting of Dallas’s civi-lized dining spots. And the food will spoil you. An organic-romaine Caesar with sour-dough croutons and a subtle cauliflower soup with a darling Parmesan soufflé were both tasty, while seared sea scallops with squash ravioli, brown butter hazelnuts, and a sage-orange marmalade took this meal to new heights. If you see the strawberry-rhubarb-almond tart on the menu, grab it. Bar.

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(From January 2012)

Your blood pressure is bound to drop here; no one seems to be in a rush to leave. Open since 1946, this funky, friendly burger joint also offers chicken-fried steak, and nowadays there’s even grilled chicken on the menu. Our platter of CFS came with a boatload of gravy, a pint of fries, and sliced tomatoes (a healthy touch). The dessert option is still just a candy bar, but at least now you can get something other than Snickers. Beer.

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(From July 2011)

Yes, chef-owner John Tesar did get into a well-publicized shouting match at his own restaurant with Dallas chef Nick Badovinus on May 26. Yes, punches were thrown. But we’re now letting go of the juicy gossip to focus on the even juicier hamburgers at this upscale burger bar and bistro. Go for one of the wild ones, like the fabulous pork sausage, braised pig tail, and pork belly. As for the more-serious entrées, results have been extremely mixed. One time we had a ghastly, tough sous-vide-cooked hanger steak with a harsh demi. Another time, we made a lovely meal by cherry-picking an appetizer of mortadella spuma, or foam, on grilled crostini with shavings of black truffle; a small plate of pillowy ricotta gnudi with thumbprint-size indentions for collecting the luscious brown butter–thyme sauce; and a dessert consisting of a strawberry and pistachio financier accompanied by strawberry ice cream. Tesar’s chef’s table—the real foodie draw—was inaugurated too late to be reviewed this time. That’s where he will redeem his reputation. Or not. Hopefully the former. Beer & wine. 

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