Dallas

(From November 2011)

Sitting down to brunch in this sunlit-space, it was hard to picture the same room throbbing with energy on a weekend night, as it’s reputed to do (imagine, if you will, a $50 punch bowl that serves up enough for twelve drinks). Although tempted by chicken and waffles, we loved our spinach and goat cheese omelet. Individual French presses kept us supplied with coffee throughout the meal, which ended with a bread pudding that confounded all preconceived notions; more like a flourless chocolate cake, it came topped with a slug of hot fudge sauce and a scoop of Henry’s chocolate ice cream. Bar.

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(From March 2011) A sophisticated veneer of brick and dark wood belies the comfort food to be had at this laid-back eatery. A breakfast of French toast made with Texas-size slices of egg bread dusted with confectioner’s sugar was truly a treat, and though we didn’t need the accompanying slices of bacon, their crisp, salty bite complemented the sweetness nicely. Provolone and fresh spinach elevated a humble omelet, and a bowl of grits on the side made for a filling meal. Count on super-friendly service. Bar.

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(From June 2011) Good morning, sunshine! We love this high-ceilinged room, with the sun streaming through the windows, and we love the break-fast even more. Is there anyone who could re-sist a delectable frittata with roasted red pepper, chorizo, and goat cheese and sides of hash browns and “hippy” bread (i.e., lots of grains)? And nowhere is it written that you can’t have dessert after breakfast, espe-cially in the form of delicate, crispy lemon cannoli.

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(From February 2012)

We wonder if anyone ever orders the Raisin Bran at this temple of breakfast, especially when the menu boasts a fabulous Frisbee-size ham steak plattered up with two eggs, buttery grits, and toast. Seriously, it’s daunting to finish. The cinnamon rolls are also legendary; there’s even one that feeds 40 to 50 people (for $74.99). The tilting floors are gone, but the service is still the friendliest in town.

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(From February 2011) Corporate types, UT Southwestern med school employees, police officers, and ordinary folk make this Dallas institution a madhouse at noon. If you’re thinking about the meat loaf, make sure to get it with plenty of the slightly spicy Creole sauce of onions, peppers, tomatoes, and carrots. Sides (there are more than 20) are pure comfort food; we especially like the pinto beans. A separate menu proclaims that “pie fixes everything,” and we’d have to agree after devouring our piece of chocolate–peanut butter cream pie with a chocolate cookie crust.

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(From April 2011) Imagine meatballs prepared with ground chicken rather than beef, plunk them down in a very fresh tomato sauce laced with tarragon and Reggiano, add a side of steamed broccoli, and you’ve got a healthy, tasty entrée. As for our other favorite, banana pie came nicely presented with fresh banana, vanilla custard, a crunchy crust, and a dusting of chocolate and drizzle of caramel. We like these imaginative variations on comfort food classics. We also like the feel of the long, narrow room centered with a U-shaped bar and lighted by clerestory windows. The alfresco patio and its infinity-pool foun-tain are a real draw. Bar.

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