Fort Worth

(From April 2009) A recent renovation has resulted in a quieter and warmer dining space off the lobby of the Ashton Hotel, and chef Ismael Rojas has designed the menu with Southwestern palates in mind. The Tlalpan Salad (named for a district in Mexico City) featured assorted greens, toasted pistachios, and sliced cucumber tossed in a chipotle vinaigrette, while the grilled fourteen-ounce ribeye came with whipped Yukon potatoes, baby carrots, a poblano with corn sauce, and a topping of fried onions. The experienced and knowledgeable servers are a real asset. Bar.

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(From August 2009) Al and Olga Paez opened this Ridglea spot 26 years ago, and now their son Derrick, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, is doing appealing fare from central Italy. From a menu divided into “modern” and “classic,” we chose from the latter: Short rib lasagne featured layers of pasta and herbed ricotta moistened with an extraordinary beef reduction, while ricotta tortellini with roasted pork loin and English peas prompted a wish for a large spoon (a straw, maybe?) so we could capture every last smidgen of the Parmesan cream sauce. Bar.

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(From December 2009) Informal enough to be a neighborhood spot but classed up with French tableware and pastel linens, Louise Lamensdorf’s charming venue is just the right home for her ever-changing menu. On a recent visit we had a delicious carrot-cumin soup, followed by savory pan-seared scallops served with savoy cabbage, fingerling potatoes, and a rich caviar beurre blanc. Buttermilk chocolate cake went per-fectly with the house-made cinnamon ice cream. Bar.

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(From October 2009) Southwestern decor is the backdrop for a menu heavy on Texas meat, fish, and game. The Chicken Stack is creative, nicely executed—and fiery! Watch out for the guajillo chile sauce and salsa verde tucked in the layers of smoked chicken, queso fresco, and corn tortillas. Assuaging our numb taste buds was a lush pecan-crusted redfish filet topped with artichokes, capers, tomatoes, and a white wine butter sauce, served with smoked-Gouda mashed potatoes. An apple crisp sprinkled with Texas pecan crumble and served with cinnamon ice cream was a delight. Bar. 4259

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(From June 2008) Wall-to-wall TVs ensure you won’t miss a single sporting event, and patio seating is available for those who like to people-watch. Yes, they have wings (bone in or bone out), as well as “frings” (fried onion strings) and hand-cut fries. For the heartier appetite, there’s a vegetable panini with roasted onions, squash, peppers, and mushrooms and a massive half-pound burger complete with bacon and blue cheese crumbles. Bar.

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(From June 2008) Amid brick walls and pale wood floors, diners watch pizza dough twirling in an open kitchen. The bruschetta platter comes with a choice of three; we selected the roasted peppers with goat cheese and mint, the Gorgonzola with sliced artichokes, and the mozzarella and tomato. From an array of pizzas, we shared the Marina (albacore tuna, black olives, and red onions), then dug into a hot-from-the-oven panini (the Roma, sporting grilled Italian sausage, portobellos, provolone, and tomatoes). Expect good Italian food, all to be eaten with your hands. Bar.

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(From July 2009) Chef Keith Hicks is movin’ on up (previous stints include Gunsmoke and Ovation), and this sprawling venue, with its swanky bar, live music, and great food, is a home run. The irresistibly named Let’s Get It On oysters feature bruschetta topped with creamed spinach and a crunchy fried oyster drizzled with béarnaise, while the Wild “Shroom” Pasta sports shiitakes, criminis, portobellos, and porcinis tossed with fettucine in a roasted shallot butter. And yes, the famed chicken and waffles have their rightful place on this menu too. Bar.

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(From November 2009) Twenty years for any restaurant is amazing, and it’s been a pleasure to watch David Rotman’s Ridglea spot evolve. Replacing the floor-to-ceiling fabric of years past are half walls topped with glass blocks. Also, “demi plates” are now offered. Being partial to the Southwestern menu items, we were more than content with the pork tenderloin enchiladas served with onion and corn relish. And we raved about the basil-infused mashed potatoes accompanying grilled Atlantic salmon slathered with lemon hollandaise. Happy birthday, Cafe Aspen. Bar.

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(From October 2009) Decisions, decisions . . . How to choose between the Rachel (a mound of corned beef and turkey, melted Swiss, coleslaw, and Russian dressing on rye) and the Rebecca (layers of pastrami, cream cheese, and smoked turkey with Russian dressing on egg bread)? The solution for many patrons of this longtime Southside deli is to divide them between you and a friend. Just save room for the to-die-for chocolate meringue pie. Beer & wine.

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(From June 2008) A Lebanese and Italian kitchen brings a host of wonderful aromas to this onetime fire station, beautifully renovated with chandeliers, granite, and rich fabrics. Spaghettini offered a difficult choice between marinara sauce, meatballs, or meat sauce, so we compromised with half meatballs and half meat sauce. The ablama, yellow squash stuffed with ground sirloin and cooked in tomato sauce, was pleasant enough, although the dish would have been jazzier with more herbs and spices. Expect good food and marginal service. Bar.

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