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BONNELL’S
4259 Bryant Irvin Rd (817-738-5489) Lunch Tue–Fri 11–2:30. Dinner Tue–Sat 5:30–9. Closed Sun & Mon. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
American |
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(From February 2012) Refined Western decor sets the stage for some of the best wild game and fresh fish in the area. There are meats aplenty for the Texas he-man (or anyone who eats like one), including venison, beef, antelope, and buffalo. Venison tenderloin was lavished with a cocoa rub, wrapped in bacon, and grilled to perfection, while cobia, a warm-water white fish, was treated to a delicate herbed beurre blanc, a perfect choice that let the mild fish shine. Cleverly placed partitions allow for privacy, and the wine list contains many formerly obscure domestic labels, which the servers are well versed in. Bar.
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CAFE MODERN
Modern Art Museum, 3200 Darnell (817-840-2157) Open Tue–Thur & Sat & Sun 10–5, Fri 10–10. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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American / Deli |
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(From June 2011) For a restful stop in a serene setting, this circular room, with views of sculptures and a reflecting pond, would suffice even without the scrumptious food. But luckily for us, chef Dena Peterson chooses local ingredients and humanely raised animals (sans antibiotics and growth hormones), handles it all with a delicate expertise, and plates her food as artfully as anything you’ll see in the museum. Capellini with sautéed arugula, dried tomatoes, and toasted pine nuts came nestled around herb-grilled chicken and laced with lemon-garlic olive oil, while tender crepes enveloped goat and Swiss cheeses and sat atop creamy mushroom duxelles. Bar.
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MICHAEL’S CUISINE
3413 W. 7th (817-877-3413) Open Mon–Wed 11–11, Thur & Fri 11–1 a.m., Sat 5–1. Closed Sun. web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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American / Southwestern |
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(From February 2011) Chef Michael Thomson has a huge crush on all things hot, so be forewarned. Having once been ambushed by a purportedly mild soup that was too picante to swallow, we cautiously ordered a salmon filet with tequila butter and the pecan-crusted chicken stuffed with goat cheese and drizzled with basil cream. Both proved to be safe (and tasty) choices. Bar.
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PARIS COFFEE SHOP
704 W. Magnolia (817-335-2041) Open Mon–Fri 6 a.m.–2:30 p.m., Sat 6 a.m.–11 a.m. Closed Sun. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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American / Home Cooking |
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(From June 2011) A bonus to the farmhand-size breakfasts and home-cooked soul food lunches dished up at this absolutely un-fancy, it-is-what-it-is Fort Worth stalwart are the lively debates on sports, politics, and weather that you might overhear at the next table. Expect the likes of grilled cheese sandwiches, chicken and dumplings, and CFS. Oh, and well-loved meringue pies. A helping of nostalgia comes with every order.
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ROCK BOTTOM BAR & GRILL
3468 Bluebonnet Circle (817-923-7625) Open Sun–Tue 10 a.m.–midnight, Wed–Sat 11 a.m.–2 a.m. map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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American |
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(From June 2011) Setting up shop in the former home of Fishmonger’s and Ocean Rock, this new spot has added burgers, CFS, and all-day break-fast to the seafood dishes this TCU neighborhood has come to expect. Crowds gather to watch games, quaff purple Toad-tinis, and chow down on fish tacos with black beans and rice. The chicken-fried steak with creamy mashed potatoes is as good as many a mom’s. Bar.
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SAPRISTI
2418 Forest Park Blvd (817-924-7231) Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–9, Fri & Sat 5:30–10. Brunch Sun 10:30–2. Closed Mon. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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Continental / American |
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(From February 2012) The minute you walk in the door of this TCU neighborhood favorite you’ll be hit by the garlicky, buttery aroma of steamed mussels. If you can look past those, you’ll find many interesting dishes, like a comforting linguine with a light tomato sauce, spinach, and Parmesan and a spicy orecchiette with Italian sausage, fennel, and tomatoes. More-ambitious entrée choices include ruby trout, roasted duck, rack of lamb, and grilled ribeye. Beer & wine.
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