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AVENTINO
3206 Winthrop Ave (817-731-0711)
Dinner Mon–Wed 5–10, Thur–Sat 5–11 (bar till midnight). Closed Sun.
web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | photo | access ++ | |
$$$ |
Italian |
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(From August 2009) Al and Olga Paez opened this Ridglea spot 26 years ago, and now their son Derrick, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, is doing appealing fare from central Italy. From a menu divided into “modern” and “classic,” we chose from the latter: Short rib lasagne featured layers of pasta and herbed ricotta moistened with an extraordinary beef reduction, while ricotta tortellini with roasted pork loin and English peas prompted a wish for a large spoon (a straw, maybe?) so we could capture every last smidgen of the Parmesan cream sauce. Bar. |
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BRIX
2747 S. Hulen (817-924-2749)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11, Sun 5–11 (bar till midnight).
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | |
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Pizza /
Italian |
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(From June 2008) Amid brick walls and pale wood floors, diners watch pizza dough twirling in an open kitchen. The bruschetta platter comes with a choice of three; we selected the roasted peppers with goat cheese and mint, the Gorgonzola with sliced artichokes, and the mozzarella and tomato. From an array of pizzas, we shared the Marina (albacore tuna, black olives, and red onions), then dug into a hot-from-the-oven panini (the Roma, sporting grilled Italian sausage, portobellos, provolone, and tomatoes). Expect good Italian food, all to be eaten with your hands. Bar. |
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CHADRA MEZZA AND GRILL
1622 Park Place Ave (817-924-2372)
Open Mon–Sat 11–10. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | |
$$ |
Italian |
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(From June 2008) A Lebanese and Italian kitchen brings a host of wonderful aromas to this onetime fire station, beautifully renovated with chandeliers, granite, and rich fabrics. Spaghettini offered a difficult choice between marinara sauce, meatballs, or meat sauce, so we compromised with half meatballs and half meat sauce. The ablama, yellow squash stuffed with ground sirloin and cooked in tomato sauce, was pleasant enough, although the dish would have been jazzier with more herbs and spices. Expect good food and marginal service. Bar. |
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LA PIAZZA
University Park Village shopping center, 1600 S. University (817-334-0000)
Open Sun–Fri 11:30–2 & 5:30–10, Sat 5:30–10.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | |
$$$ |
Italian |
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(From September 2008) Soft candlelight, an extensive wine list, a kitchen capable of attending to any whim—everything is in place in this handsomely decorated Italian restaurant. Our cream of tomato soup was soothing and fragrant, our elegant eggplant parmigiana delicately layered, and our tortellini bolognese meaty and rich, with an abundance of basil. Bar. |
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PIOLA
3700 Mattison Ave (817-989-0007)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2. Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10. Closed Sun.
web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | access ++ | |
$$$ |
Italian |
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(From September 2009) This phoenix has risen: Bobby Albanese and crew completely restored the cozy Italian restaurant only two months after it burned to the ground. And the kitchen appears no worse for wear. A splendid green salad with warm goat cheese and pecans was tossed in a creamy jalapeño dressing, and Grandma’s Lasagne—beef, sausage, ricotta, mozzarella, and tomato sauce—was pure comfort. A special of pan-seared halibut came topped with two bacon-wrapped shrimp and surrounded with a scrumptious red bell pepper sauce. |
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RUFFINO’S
2455 Forest Park Blvd (817-923-0522)
Lunch Mon—Fri 11—2. Dinner Mon—Thur 5—9, Fri & Sat 5—10. Closed Sun.
web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | photo | access ++ | |
$$ |
Italian /
Mediterranean |
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(From March 2009) Quiet enough to be considered a “date night” spot, this TCU neighborhood favorite offers the requisite special touches along with a solid Italian menu of salads, pizzas, and pastas. Between an amuse-bouche and a complimentary square of cheesecake for dessert, we sampled the vegetable fettuccine (an altogether pedestrian dish at many places) and discovered a delicious mix of pasta with eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, red bell pepper, mushrooms, and onions. What a pleasant surprise for the noncarnivorous. Beer & wine. |
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SAPRISTI
2418 Forest Park Blvd (817-924-7231)
Dinner Tue—Thur 5:30—9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30—10. Brunch Sun 10:30—2. Closed Mon.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | |
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Italian /
American |
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(From February 2009) Build it and they will come. Now with more space, this comfortable neighborhood bistro has two rooms full of happy, satisfied eaters. Mussels are served in six versions, with frites, and the house linguine expertly blends basil, garlic, tomato sauce, and fresh spinach leaves. Carnivores will find plenty to choose from, like beef, duck, lamb, pork, and chicken. We went the seafood route and found the crab cakes (with very little filler) a lovely companion to a caprese salad of huge slices of tomato and mozzarella drizzled with olive oil. Beer & wine. |
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WINSLOW'S WINE CAFE
4101 Camp Bowie Blvd (817-546-6843)
Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | |
$$ |
Italian /
Wine Bar |
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(From February 2009) A handsome redo of the filling station where many a student pumped up his bicycle tires en route to junior high allowed us to enjoy a light dinner and try a couple of almost thirty wines by the glass. Lobster-fennel ravioli, shrimp cocktail with hearts of palm, cheeses and charcuterie—all are presented with flair. The imaginative wood-fired pizzas are quite the sensation; the Jim Bowie combines barbecued chicken, smoked cheddar, jalapeños, and bacon, while the spinach pizza has goat cheese, caramelized onions, and béchamel. Beer & wine. |
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