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ELLERBE FINE FOODS
1501 W. Magnolia Ave (817-926-3663) Lunch Tue–Fri 11–2. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–9, Fri & Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun & Mon. web site | map | latest review | photo | no access | |
$$$ |
Steaks |
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(From November 2009) Utilizing seasonal and regional ingredients, chef Molly McCook and co-owner Richard King have cooked up a menu that seems just right for their new spot, a twenties-era gas station transformed with huge windows, concrete floors, walls painted in pale green and white, and posies in milk bottles. An elegant charcuterie plate preceded a lovely bacon-wrapped whole rainbow trout, which was grilled and served atop green beans with a tarragon crème fraîche. For dessert, the dark chocolate on a graham cracker crust with toasted marshmallow cream (think s’mores) was the perfect lead-in to sweet dreams. Beer & wine.
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GRADY’S
2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817-922-9980) Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun & Mon. map | latest review | photo | access ++ | |
$$-$$$ |
Mexican / Steaks |
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(From May 2009) Four months ago, Fort Worth chef Grady Spears (formerly of the Chisholm Club and Lambert’s) hung out his shingle, offering equal parts steakhouse fare, Mexican food, and home cooking. An early visit led off with a crispy taco appetizer featuring chile-seasoned shredded quail with a side relish of roasted corn and red bell pepper. It was great, in a glorified-bar-food way. Surprisingly refined, though, was a cream of roasted carrot soup with just a bit of heat. Main courses varied from a semi-tough beef tenderloin with green-chile mac and cheese (in need of salt) to a huge, fantastically tender serving of pork shank on maple syrup–tinged mashed sweet potatoes. The setting is plain but pleasant, and the food definitely has promise. We’ll be back. Bar.
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MAC’S ON 7TH
Montgomery Plaza, 2600 W. 7th (817-332-6227) Open Mon–Thur 11–10 (bar til 11), Fri & Sat 11–11 (bar til 12), Sun 10–10. web site | map | latest review | access ++ | |
$$$ |
Steaks / American |
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(From March 2009) Owner Mike McMahan brings 25 years of restaurant experience to Montgomery Plaza with this sleek steak and seafood house, complete with glass walls to observe the pedestrian traffic. We’d been advised of the existence of a large and outstanding chicken-fried steak, but we could not resist the char-broiled halibut served with wild rice and the zippy blackened orange roughy with étouffée, a generous serving of fish and shrimp that proved to be not too spicy, just well-supplied with creole oomph. Bar.
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RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE
813 Main (817-348-0080) Dinner Mon–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9:30. web site | map | reserve a table | latest review | photo | access ++ | |
$$$ |
Steaks |
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(From October 2008) Our server filled us in on the history of this chain (it’s been around for forty years) and patiently led us through the menu. We were pleased with his suggestion to share a Caesar salad; there were plenty of greens and croutons and anchovies to go around. The tender porterhouse for two was divine. And half of the forty ounces accompanied us home in its own insulated doggie bag. Bar.
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