Houston

(From April 2009) Robert Gadsby’s new, Mediterranean/Asian enterprise (following his fling with Orient-oriented dining at Soma) rates high on the imagination scale. Witness a so-called wild mushroom risotto—made with Texmati rice—with wafer-thin slices of grape and a Thai red curry sauce. Or the lamb osso buco, a huge chunk of quite tender meat, with caramelized “melting” onions, braised fennel, and a pomegranate seed garnish. Or a butternut squash “cappuccino” soup topped with a little salad of celery, apple, and granola. If you’re sensitive to noise, ask for a table away from the bar crowd. The artful, contemporary space, with tall plate-glass windows, is quite “live.” The “chef’s table,” the bar in front of the open kitchen, is much less intimidating than most such venues. Bar.

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(From November 2009) Jadeite has changed owners and name but remains in the family and retains its flamboyant Asian-Vegas decor, including that glistening red-ball sculpture in the middle of the room. From the familiar menu we sampled a fine version of the classic hot-and-sour soup and a too-bland vegetable-pumpkin bisque, but we most enjoyed our seafood (tilapia, scallops, shrimp, crab) in a not-so-spicy coconut sauce, along with brown rice. New additions include a sushi bar and teriyaki dishes. Bar.

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(From August 2008) The sunroom, with its clean lines and rattan furniture, is a good place to peruse a menu that spans Thai, Vietnamese, and Chinese. Right now our favorite dishes include a tuna sashimi and avocado salad, lamb satay, and the Tori Crunch maki, a tempura-crusted roll of grilled chicken and avocado. The traditional red beef curry was light on curry and heavy on large chunks of spicy beef. Beer, wine, & sake.

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