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GATLIN’S BARBECUE & CATERING

1221 W. 19th
(713-869-4227)
Open Tue–Sat 11–7. Closed Sun & Mon.
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$–$$

Barbecue

(From June 2011)

Tucked into a section of the Heights still dominated by car shops, this new barbecue cafe has folks calling ahead for dry-rub ribs and smoke-rimmed brisket before the day’s supply runs out. So warned, we showed up early one weekday and snagged an indoor table and platters of the super ribs, brisket, and crumbly homemade sausage, along with a tangy sauce that scored dead center on vinegary-sweet. We warmed to the honest-to-goodness dirty rice and slightly spicy baked beans—and to the Gatlin family’s friendly welcome. BYOB.

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GOODE CO. TEXAS BAR-B-Q

5109 Kirby Dr
(713-522-2530)
Cash Only.
Open 7 days 11–10.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access + | My Library add to library | add your review

$-$$

Barbecue

 

Photograph by Daniel Vaughn

(From February 2012)

It’s dusk. Picture ice-cold longnecks, picnic tables, Marty Robbins on the sound system, and a plateful of Texas barbecue. ’Nuff said. There’s plenty of great ’cue in this town, but folks still line up for Goode’s mesquite-smoked brisket, ribs, and sausage. We’re partial to the succulent smoked duck and the tender, thin-sliced spicy pork, with some meaty jambalaya, savory pintos, and a hunk of jalapeño cheese bread alongside. The original Goode Co., this place is a Texas nostalgia showcase for out-of-town guests and a family tradition for generations. Beer & wine.

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GOODE CO. TEXAS BAR-B-Q

8911 I-10 (Katy Fwy)
(713-464-1901)
Open 7 days 11-10.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | My Library add to library | add your review

$-$$

Barbecue

 

(From December 2010)

Shotguns, saddles, a stuffed buffalo, beer on ice, and wafts of mesquite smoke guarantee this is Texas to a T, and they have the “goodes” to prove it. Smoke-ringed brisket is the perennial favorite, but we’re also partial to succulent smoked turkey and turkey sausage. And we’re fans of the spicy pulled pork and lean pork ribs. For extras, we go with jalapeño cheese bread, Austin baked beans with ham and apples (though friends from Austin swear that no such dish is identified with Texas’s capital city), and pecan pie. Beer & wine.

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STELLA SOLA

1001 Studewood
(713-880-1001)
Dinner Tue–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11, Sun 5–9. Brunch Sun 11–3. Closed Mon.
web site | map | latest review | photo | access ++ | My Library add to library | add your review

$$–$$$

Eclectic /
Barbecue

 

(From April 2011)

Only a couple of recent dishes at this attractive spot proved less than “stella” (sorry, we couldn’t resist). Undone by a pre-ponderance of pork, the Farmhouse Salad seemed marred by its strong-tasting bits of “cochon de lait” (a.k.a. pork rinds), and the delicate crabmeat in a crab carbonara with tagliatelle was over-whelmed by the salty pancetta. Still, our wagyu sirloin steak had intense flavor and came with warm smoked potato salad and an imaginative pear-onion barbecue sauce. A starter of burrata with pickled, smoked tomatoes tasted just fine, and we could stuff our-selves on the great biscuits, served gratis. Bar.

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