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GRAVITAS

807 Taft (713-522-0995)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3:30. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30–11:30, Sun 5:30–9:30. Brunch Sun 10:30–2:30. Reservations recommended.
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$$-$$$$

American /
Continental

(From November 2009) We visited right about the time that chef Jason Gould and owner Scott Tycer were parting company in a very public spat, so we expect menu changes are coming. (Tycer also owns and is chef at Textile.) That said, we liked our big, plump mussels, though we can never decide whether white wine or Stella Artois makes a better base for the broth (jazzed with tarragon and garlic). Other favorites were the smoked pork chop with herb bread pudding and apple cider sauce and the salads (especially any with a poached egg on top). The sprawling, brick-lined dining room features an open kitchen and a huge chalkboard listing available wines. Bar.

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