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GRAVITAS

807 Taft
(713-522-0995)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30–11:30, Sun 5:30–9:30. Brunch Sun 11–3.
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$$-$$$$

American /
Continental

(From October 2010) Now a Fourth Ward veteran rather than the new kid on the block, Scott Tycer’s bistro, a handsome, industrial redo, can still be counted on for honest, inventive dishes full of fresh ingredients. The signa-ture rustic bread, served as soon as we sat down, set the tone for our meal. Chipotle chiles gave an interesting edge to gazpacho, but the clear no-meat winner was the delectable onion bread pudding, light and custardy within, encased in leek greens. Scallops, crusty outside and moist throughout, could not have been better. Bar.

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