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SAFFRON

2006 Lexington (713-522-3562)
Dinner Tue–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations accepted.
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$$

Middle Eastern /
Eclectic

(From August 2008) Replete with Moroccan lanterns, tiles, and the requisite belly dancer, Saffron is nonetheless family-friendly and provides a good entry to North African cuisine. Our party gave enthusiastic thumbs-up to starters: beef ragoût rolled in phyllo and served in a honey-tomato confit and tender sweetbreads with fava beans and ginger. Thumbs stayed aloft for a simple, luscious dish of braised chicken over Moroccan bread in a saffron broth. Thumbs down, though, for dry bastilla and chewy lamb shank. Bar.

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