Houston

(From May 2009) A quiet meal in a plush room with rich red accents and lovely contemporary crystal chandeliers makes for a special night out—with prices to match. But a humble dish done well is a joy, like the moist roasted chicken with chanterelles and brioche-thickened chicken jus; it’s served with brussels sprouts and a side of crusty mac and cheese. And don’t let us forget to mention a kabocha squash soup with a bit of brown butter and sage and meaty pan-seared crab cake with a blood-orange-and-fennel sabayon. This is a place that shows Houston to good advantage. Bar.

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(From June 2008) Inner Loopers seldom venture to the burbs to eat, but Missouri City folks seem to know something the rest of us don’t. This attractive storefront, broken into small, cozy areas, attracts big crowds for imaginative food at small-town prices. Prime examples include burrata cheese with tomatoes and a balsamic vinaigrette and the Surf & Turf, a clever combo of sea scallops and deboned beef short ribs in a burgundy reduction. Filet mignon, rubbed with pepper and served with a cognac mushroom sauce and fries, proved a bargain at $24. Beer & wine.

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(From August 2008) We hit the Wall recently (in a good way), vying with the hip young crowd for a seat in this high-ceilinged, concrete-floored neighborhood spot. The attraction? Good, reasonably priced food. A warm goat cheese salad with arugula, endive, and orange slices beat out the slightly salty shrimp broth with light cream, vegetables, and bacon. But the main course was worthy of applause: roasted chicken with lemon salt and buttery garlic mashers. Bar.

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(From November 2009) Now that the weather’s starting to change, we can enjoy Discovery Green without breaking a sweat, thanks to the Grove’s shady deck, cool vibe, and equally refreshing food and cocktails. A perfect duo of soft-shell-crab tacos and pomegranate margaritas brought quick relief, while chilled asparagus with goat cheese, grape tomatoes, and hazelnuts was fresh and crisp. Serving nicely as supper for two were small plates of maple-glazed pulled pork on corn cakes and a tender petite filet with a dab of whipped potatoes. Bar.

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(From November 2009) Easy-on-the-wallet prices, a sleek setting, fine wines, and good service keep Ibiza hopping. Not to mention the risotto with cremini mushrooms and grana padano in a pool of white truffle oil, the grilled chicken with rosemary olive oil, and the roasted beets with pistachio and feta. As for fish, the elegant halibut with sorrel butter, risotto, and green vegetables outdid the grouper, even though the latter was loaded with crab, chives, and a buttery wine sauce. Tres leches, less goopy than some versions, vied with warm chocolate cake as our dessert fave. Bar.

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(From July 2008) This bastion of French cuisine in west Houston has just moved into stylish new digs next door to its old address, which says a lot about the loyalty of its ever-increasing fan base. Appetizing starters included foie gras terrine and wild mushroom soup with garlic whipped cream. We were delighted to revisit red snapper en papillote on a bed of leeks, a favorite from childhood, as well as the caramelized duck in orange sauce. Bar.

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(From August 2009) We’re thrilled that Mockingbird is back in the brunch business. The brick walls, high ceilings, and expanses of glass make a pleasant setting to relax with friends for a midday Sunday meal, either traditional brunch fare or more substantial dishes. The Bistro Benedict involves the usual poached eggs, English muffin, and hollandaise but also includes sliced avocado, prosciutto, and tomato pesto. For a heartier option, try the veal bolognese with rigatoni and fresh ricotta. Bar.

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(From November 2009) In this elegant space, the business express lunch is exquisite—and a bargain, to boot. Think highfalutin bento boxes with four mini-courses, like baby greens with shaved fennel and vanilla bean vinaigrette; flavorful lentil soup; pasta with buffalo bolognese and mozzarella; and luscious caramel cream puffs. An equally splendid choice is the pan-seared spearfish, meaty and flavorful, with shrimp-stuffed ravioli and sautéed spinach. We think we overheard the word “hoity-toity” bandied about, but we sure had fun. Bar.

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(From July 2009) This new venture from chef Bruce Molzan and owner Federico Marques has the honor of being Houston’s first Certified Green Restaurant. Think energy efficiency, recycling, green building materials, organic and all-natural food, and much more. There’s a blackboard menu and an umbrella-shaded deck, and, a few service glitches aside, a fine meal to be had. We liked the chicken curry salad (perked up with raisins, dried mango, and orange-honey dressing) and the turkey meatball panino (with mozzarella, Gruyère, Swiss, and Fontina cheeses, tomato sauce, and sweet peppers). Only the hamburger proved to be nothing special. Beer & wine.

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(From February 2009) The contemporary setting complements the clean, fresh flavors of the menu at this Heights favorite. We enjoyed the measured pace of our meal, which started with beefy vine-ripened tomatoes simply garnished with feta cheese and basil and a lively mixed greens salad with grapefruit, roasted beets, and citrus vinaigrette. Equally impressive were the sautéed halibut atop mashed purple potatoes and grilled zucchini and the plump grilled pork chop with savory Gruyère bread pudding and sautéed Swiss chard. Bar.

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