Houston

(From July 2011)

Here’s another slick trick from the RDG group, with tile floors, banquettes in sea blue, and a view of the Kirby Drive treetops. Small appetizers include steamed clams, snappy with a flurry of quick-sautéed fennel and parsley; larger dishes feature a rich shrimp-and-shell-pasta number slathered thick with tomato cream sauce, red chile slivers, and butterflied crustaceans. Tasty thin pizzas proved inconsistently crispy, though we got a winner with a speck, onion, and arugula combo, a great mix of savory, smoky, sweet, and bitter tastes. Bar. 

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