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BRENNAN’S
3300 Smith
(713-522-9711)
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2. Dinner 7 days 5:45–10. Brunch Sat 11–2, Sun (with live jazz) 10–2.
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$$$-$$$$ |
Seafood /
Cajun & Creole |
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(From December 2010) First and last impressions count, and both were good at our weekend brunch at beautifully restored Brennan’s. Our starters of shrimp-and-okra gumbo and perfectly fried green tomatoes topped with lush crabmeat were both winners. Things got wobbly with an entrée of shrimp and grits, a case of overgrilled shrimp and too many ingredients vying for attention. Still, a great finale of precisely tart lemon meringue pie garnished with blueberry coulis and fresh blueberries left a sweet taste in our mouths. Bar. |
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EDDIE V’S PRIME SEAFOOD
West Ave Development, 2800 Kirby Dr
(713-874-1800)
Dinner Sun–Thur 5–10, Fri & Sat 5–11. Reservations recommended.
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$$$ |
Seafood |
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(From February 2012) One of the classiest places in town, this sleek West Ave dining room excels in surf—our Louisiana redfish with meunière sauce and lump crab was delectable. But our perfectly grilled center-cut Black Angus filet indicated Eddie knows turf too. And lightly sautéed spinach with a sprinkle of grated Parmesan proved that a luxe side dish doesn’t have to tip the calorie scales. Bar. |
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GOODE CO. SEAFOOD
10211 Katy Fwy (I-10)
(713-464-7933)
Open Mon–Sat 11–10, Sun 11–9
map | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$ |
Seafood |
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(From June 2011) Our go-to spot for Gulf Coast seafood, Goode is always great. The I-10 location boasts a roomy, yacht-club feel, not to mention decorative artifacts in the form of a beautiful 1939 motorboat, a huge ship’s propeller, and photos from fishing days of old. All of which gets you in the mood for the likes of mesquite-grilled, sim-ply seasoned snapper, flounder, and shrimp and delicious baked crab stuffed with crabmeat (of course), shrimp, and hearts of palm and topped with a Parmesan-pecan crust. Bar. |
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KUBO’S JAPANESE SUSHI BAR AND GRILL
2414 University Blvd, 2nd floor
(713-528-7878)
Open Mon–Thur 11:30–10, Fri 11:30–11, Sat noon–10:30, Sun noon–9.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$—$$$ |
Japanese /
Seafood |
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(From December 2010) This up-the-escalator mall site is a go-to spot for Rice Village shoppers and multigenerational Japanese-American families. We found the fried pork dumplings so meltingly good we wished we’d doubled our order; fortunately, the crisp vegetable tempura that followed helped assuage our grief. We finished with a chef’s choice sushi platter and gave it (and him) high marks. Look for special seafood flown in from Japan’s Tsukiji market on the weekends. Bar. |
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REEF
2600 Travis, at McGowen
(713-526-8282)
Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Seafood |
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(From February 2012) The crowd at this sleek spot was more casual than we remembered from our last visit, but the tables were full on a Saturday night. Seafood is the name of the game here, of course, and we applauded our slow-baked salmon with lemon risotto and a drizzle of chile oil, as well as a friend’s seared scallops atop braised cabbage and andouille sausage in a rich broth. Roasted squash was upstaged by the more robust flavors of arugula, Serrano ham, and pecorino in a seasonal salad that sounded good but needed tweaking. Love the great wine-by-the-bottle prices. Bar. |
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SAPORI RISTORANTE ITALIANO
12225 Westheimer Rd
(281-496-4941)
Open Mon & Tue 11–9, Wed & Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | latest review | access ++ | add to library |
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$$-$$$ |
Italian /
Seafood |
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(From November 2011) Fans of Simposio’s are heading west for chef Alberto Baffoni’s new digs in Royal Oaks. The convivial atmosphere belies its strip-center location, and meals worthy of special occasions are standard fare. We started with a fetching combo of peppery arugula, paper-thin beef carpaccio, and shaved Parmesan, then followed that with deliciously fresh strozzapreti pasta with broccoli and pancetta. Grilled red snapper with rosemary-scented roasted potatoes and sautéed green beans, zucchini, and asparagus was equally lovely. Bar. |
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VOICE
Hotel Icon, 220 Main
(832-667-4470)
Breakfast Mon–Sat 7–10, Sun 7–10:30. Dinner Mon–Fri 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11. Reservations recommended.
web site | map | reserve through OpenTable | latest review | photo | access ++ | add to library |
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$$–$$$ |
Steaks /
Seafood |
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(From March 2011) New chef Greg Lowry is putting his own twist on the menu at this soaring, charmingly recast turn-of-the-century bank lobby. One of us created our own “Voice Box†(a mix-and-match sampling from the small-plates menu); it consisted of a chanterelle “crème brûlée†with pea shoots and crispy mushrooms, a crab cake with tartar sauce, and a preserved-lemon risotto. From the regular menu, our Significant Other chose an inventive salad of multicolored beets and watercress with coffee oil and orange vinaigrette and an entrée of pheasant two ways: a pan-roasted breast and a roulade of thigh and leg. Bar. |
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