(From August 2011)

The sultry aroma of woodsmoke and the fresh scent of surrounding orange groves swirl about this converted two-story home, quaint with wood siding and Texas memorabilia. Step up to the counter and place an order for fall-off-the-bone baby back ribs and succulent beef ribs (sometimes hard to find at barbecue joints). They’re seasoned with just a little dry rub, and they both go well with 492’s thin vinegar-pepper barbecue sauce. Wash it all down with a cherry lemonade, perfect for a hot South Texas afternoon. 

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(From November 2011)

Funky, funky decor and the absense of table service never keep us from our main goal: good food. Relying on our eyes rather than common sense, we ordered up a three-meat combo plate, and we weren’t hungry again until the next morning. Two succulent pork ribs, a generous serving of chopped beef, and spicy (very) sausage links made up the main portion of this meal, while sides of pintos (over which we poured a little barbecue sauce for extra zest) and tomatoes marinated with garlic and herbs took us over the top. The homemade peach fried pies are the best of all the desserts.

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Photograph by Les

(From October 2011)

El Paso’s newest barbecue joint is tiny but bright, with kelly green walls and red-topped bar stools. A pleasant smoky scent permeates the room, where friendly staffers serve up piles of meat; the chunky, well-balanced sausage is unlike any other in the city. Don’t miss the brisket-stuffed, bacon-wrapped smoked jalapeños. Beer & Wine.

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Photograph by Ian Blackie

(From July 2011)

When you have a hankerin’ for juicy, fall-off-the-bone ribs, make your way to this funky barbecue joint at the edge of town. The ribs are heavenly, especially slathered with the tangy German sauce, but don’t hesitate to try the tender chicken, chopped beef, or sausage. All meats are slow-cooked over mesquite in large brick pits. Dine in or carry out, but be aware that they often run out before closing time, so plan ahead. Beer.

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(From July 2011)

Just south of Linn, pull along the side of U.S. 281 and stop in at Frank’s, where Frank Cerda is smoking brisket, ribs, and chicken for both weary travelers and hungry locals. Like any good barbecue joint, this place has got mismatched wood paneling and plenty of sports team memorabilia, and the mesquite-smoked meats are top-notch. We really enjoyed the sausage and tender, falling-off-the-bone chicken. Other diners were rejoicing over the hamburgers. 

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Photograph by Brian Birzer

(From June 2011)

Smoke is wafting into the air again from the site of the former Ben's Longbranch. But the occupant of the revamped old building is a young'un, namely Aaron Franklin, who had quite an avid following at his barbecue trailer. Acolytes at this altar of 'cue start the vigil hours before the the door opens, and the Last Man Standing sign (sold out!) has reportedly appeared as early as 12:30. Happily, the move into cinder-block-and-mortar hasn't changed the meltingly moist brisket or the fluffy (yet crusty-edged) shreds of pulled pork. We can't attest to the pork ribs; they were gone by the time we reached the counter. A nice touch: Wife and partner Stacy Franklin sometimes comes around to offer a Mexican Coke while you wait. Beer.

Saturday, October 1st, 2011, 1:19 pm
bill says:
First time there today. The brisket was tender and melt in your mouth. Portions were great.

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(From June 2011)

Tucked into a section of the Heights still dominated by car shops, this new barbecue cafe has folks calling ahead for dry-rub ribs and smoke-rimmed brisket before the day’s supply runs out. So warned, we showed up early one weekday and snagged an indoor table and platters of the super ribs, brisket, and crumbly homemade sausage, along with a tangy sauce that scored dead center on vinegary-sweet. We warmed to the honest-to-goodness dirty rice and slightly spicy baked beans—and to the Gatlin family’s friendly welcome. BYOB.

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Photograph by Daniel Vaughn

(From February 2012)

It’s dusk. Picture ice-cold longnecks, picnic tables, Marty Robbins on the sound system, and a plateful of Texas barbecue. ’Nuff said. There’s plenty of great ’cue in this town, but folks still line up for Goode’s mesquite-smoked brisket, ribs, and sausage. We’re partial to the succulent smoked duck and the tender, thin-sliced spicy pork, with some meaty jambalaya, savory pintos, and a hunk of jalapeño cheese bread alongside. The original Goode Co., this place is a Texas nostalgia showcase for out-of-town guests and a family tradition for generations. Beer & wine.

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(From December 2010)

Shotguns, saddles, a stuffed buffalo, beer on ice, and wafts of mesquite smoke guarantee this is Texas to a T, and they have the “goodes” to prove it. Smoke-ringed brisket is the perennial favorite, but we’re also partial to succulent smoked turkey and turkey sausage. And we’re fans of the spicy pulled pork and lean pork ribs. For extras, we go with jalapeño cheese bread, Austin baked beans with ham and apples (though friends from Austin swear that no such dish is identified with Texas’s capital city), and pecan pie. Beer & wine.

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(From March 2011)

The servers here are down-home friendly and the ambience rustic. And the second you open the door and get a whiff of J&M’s smoked brisket, sausage, turkey, and ham, your mouth will commence to water. In the winter, they fire up the woodstove and serve their famous chili, and there’s plenty of other kinds of meaty goodness, like barbecue burritos and barbecue Frito pie. You’ve got your choice of the usual sides, but we’d suggest the skin-on mashed potatoes with white gravy, pinto beans (with a dried-chile kick), and crispy fried okra. Don’t forget the cobbler: a sugary crust layered with piping-hot fruit. BYOB.

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